Noob Questions


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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doubledown
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:04 pm
Location: Laramie, Wyoming
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I

Noob Questions

Postby doubledown » Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:34 am



Good morning all! I've been browsing the site a bit, and you're a bunch of helpful geniuses! I picked up an 82 GL1100 from work (pictures coming VERY soon), and started working on it. Few questions though...

First of all, I was told that the water pump was going out....I then noticed that the reservoir was completely empty and then as I got to the radiator, i noticed the top hose was leaking. So I thought replacing the hoses was going to be an easier first step than the pump. Is there a quick/easy diagnostic test for the water pump, so I can rule it out?

Secondly, the front brakes are completely locked up. From what I can tell, it's a fairly common problem involving the very small return port in the master cylinder. The MC reservoir is very cracked/sunbeaten (I'm scared to manhandle it to get to the return port) so I've thought about just replacing the entire MC and brake lines with aftermarket, but haven't found a solid answer as to if that's possible, or what specs need to be met with a new MC.

That's it for now, I'll go upload pictures while I await some assistance :)



User avatar
SteveB123
Posts: 842
Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:29 am
Location: Winchester, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 1100I, 60A Poorboy, MSD coil

Re: Noob Questions

Postby SteveB123 » Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:40 am

Pull the pump cover, and wiggle the shaft. Movement equals replacement.

http://randakks.com/products/randakks-upgraded-front-master-cylinder
THIS looks like the cats a$$.

cheers
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

doubledown
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:04 pm
Location: Laramie, Wyoming
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I

Re: Noob Questions

Postby doubledown » Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:07 pm

Thanks! I'll go check out the wiggle-ability of the shaft. And here's the bike!

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thrasherg
Posts: 1837
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
Location: Plano, TX
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: Noob Questions

Postby thrasherg » Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:30 pm

Well I posted a long winded reply, then when I clicked submit, it just disappeared, so here is a shorter response!!

For your brakes, I would strongly recommend removing each caliper from the front fork and then dismantling and cleaning the calipers. The calipers are made of Aluminium and corrode with neglect. This then prevents the brake pistons from sliding inside the calipers causing the brakes to bind. Also the pistons are made of chromed steel and this corrodes (Rusts) also preventing the pistons from returning into the calipers and causing the brakes to bind. If you remove the calipers, you can completely dismantle them, clean everything and put them back together without needing any new parts (Unless you find something damaged when you take them apart). I would also look at replacing the hydraulic lines as they are probably the original lines and are well past their best..

Many brake pads also have high iron content (Metalic brake pads) and these can rust/bind to the front disk also causing the front wheel to not turn. Again removing the calipers from the bike allows you to see the issue better. Each caliper is attached by 2 bolts, so its quick and easy to remove the calipers..

You can then put new brake fluid in the system and see how the brakes feel. If they are still not great then at that point you might want to change the master cylinder (but they are not cheap!! The reservoir on the master cylinder does become cloudy and brittle with old age, so you do need to be careful with it!!

Gary

doubledown
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:04 pm
Location: Laramie, Wyoming
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I

Re: Noob Questions

Postby doubledown » Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:52 pm

Thanks Gary,
I got to the tiny return port, used a small wire to make sure it was clear, and that did not solve the problem. Looks like I'll be following your advice and taking apart the calipers and cleaning them. It seems strange to me that both of them would seize up at the same time, without some other issue....

Donny

User avatar
thrasherg
Posts: 1837
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
Location: Plano, TX
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: Noob Questions

Postby thrasherg » Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:48 pm

Donny, do you know that both of them have seized up? It may be only one (that will be enough to stop the wheel turning), but it's worth cleaning both calipers to be sure.
Once you remove the pistons from the caliper there is a big rubber seal (Band) that runs around the inside of the caliper and seals against the piston, you want to carefully remove it and check for any corrosion in the grove that the band sits in. Any corrosion in that grove causes the band to be squashed/trapped against the piston and will make the piston very difficult to move (Causing the brakes to drag). If there is corrosion in the groove, get a sharp object and just scrape it out, be careful not to mark the piston or damage the machined surfaces inside the caliper..

Gary

doctorpaul
Posts: 31
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:24 am
Location: Bartlesville, OK
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: Noob Questions

Postby doctorpaul » Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:06 am

I've purchased very few motorcycles of that vintage that did not require fairly extensive brake work unless they have been ridden and serviced regularly. The good news is that it is fairly easy to do. The calipers do need to come off for disassembly, cleaning and inspection. It is rare that the rubber piston seals are bad and cannot be reused but the dust seals may have come apart. Fortunately, there are rebuild kits still available from Honda for the calipers as well as both front and rear master cylinders. If they have never been overhauled, you should do that. OEM brake lines are no longer available but several very good aftermarket steel-clad lines are. These are far superior to the original all-rubber lines. You may have a situation where the lines are completely clogged by old congealed brake fluid. I discovered that a length of .08" (2mm) plastic trimmer line can be pushed through these lines to completely remove any gunk. The trimmer line is flexible enough to make the turn through the banjo joints but stiff enough to allow it to be pushed the 2 feet or so out the other end. This is a satisfactory rehab for original lines that are in otherwise good condition. I have an '80 GL1100I that looks very much like yours. Good luck!
Dr. Paul
1980 Honda GL1100I
NE Oklahoma

jdvorchak
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:58 pm
Location: East Alton, IL
Motorcycle: 2001 GL1800
2000 HD Dyna FXDX
1984 GL1200 STD

Re: Noob Questions

Postby jdvorchak » Thu Feb 07, 2013 3:42 pm

doubledown wrote:Good morning all! First of all, I was told that the water pump was going out....I then noticed that the reservoir was completely empty and then as I got to the radiator, i noticed the top hose was leaking. So I thought replacing the hoses was going to be an easier first step than the pump. Is there a quick/easy diagnostic test for the water pump, so I can rule it out?

That's it for now, I'll go upload pictures while I await some assistance :)

Once you get the lower radiator hose off you can just put you finger in through the housing and feel the impeller for play. No need to remove the housing.

doubledown
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:04 pm
Location: Laramie, Wyoming
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I

Re: Noob Questions

Postby doubledown » Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:40 pm

Oh that's great! I haven't quite got to the point of fixing the water pump (If needed) because the front brakes locked up, can't get the speedometer gear off, and some rust needed taken care of.




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