Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Fulcrum
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Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sat Mar 09, 2013 3:18 pm



Well I decided to go ahead and start a thread for my rebuild. I will try and post as many pics here as I can as everyone loves to see pics and someone else may use them for reference on their own project. I will also be using this as my main "any advice" forum for those with the experience and knowledge that can help me along. This will take some time and posts may be far inbetween but I hope by summer to have the bike "restored" and running like a champ. Thanks for all the help in advance.

Scott



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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sat Mar 09, 2013 3:34 pm

All fuses good
All fuses good
Here is the first update. Seat and tank cover removed. Put my interceptor battery on it to test the electricals. Everything seems fine except the horns and brake lights don't work. Tested all the fuses, the acc fuse was missing, probably replaced another of the 10A fuses that was blown. Replaced it and tested all the fuses with a multimeter, all good. However there is a part of the plastic fuse block that seems to have melted. Will be testing the horns by jumping from batt next. Removed coolant overflow and it had some black Goo in it. Picked up a neat trick to clean them out. Put some crushed ice and cold water in it and shake. The ice should work to remove most of the gunk and its safe and easily removed.
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Here is an up close of where the fuse block melted
Here is an up close of where the fuse block melted
More gross stuff from radiator cap
More gross stuff from radiator cap
Thunder storms rolling in so ill be working inside
Thunder storms rolling in so ill be working inside
Using the ping pong table as a work bench.
Using the ping pong table as a work bench.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:21 pm

Funny coincidence. Took off right side horn to disassemble and check it out. Went back to the bike and hit the horn button, left side is now working. So have to find out how the wiring is linked and see if the wiring is bad or the right horn is no good. Making progress. Crap, I just realized I should have taken a pic of the horn when I had it disassembled. Sorry.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sat Mar 09, 2013 10:45 pm

previous owner was nice enough to go ahead and get me some nice square mirrors of some kind of Yamaha. polished up now and looking pretty good
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patbrandon1
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:36 am

Thanks for the pics, and sharing this adventure with us. Is ping pong season over? ;)

I would change that fuse block if it were me. If it got that warm, there are other issues, as well as weak contacts. Here is what I did, as a result of searches on this site.

http://www.amazon.com/Auxiliary-Automot ... fuse+block

Below is a pic of my final conversion from glass to blade type fuses. It costs about $20 for the whole project, but everything seem to work better now.

Here is a link to Wingsconsin's thread, which is where I got the info to do this. By glass fuse block was also somewhat melted. The contacts were all weak too. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14320&hilit=+fuse
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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:18 am

Hey great looking fuse block and great advice patbrandon1. Thanks I will definitely look into that.
Ping Pong season, funny. :D

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 5:44 pm

Couple more updates. I cleaned the seat and put some leather protectant on it and aside from a two inch tear it looks great. May just use some adhesive and sew it back. Realized that the Carb linkage is frozen and not the throttle cables thanks to help from SteveB123. And after a liberal application of penetrant and the impact driver, got the rad drain plug out. Nothing but clean green antifreeze mix. Was worried chunks of stuff was going to come out. Also ordered the metal rescue from summit racing today to clean out the rusty tank. Tomorrow I will pick up some oil, oil filter, gear oil, and more liquid wrench in preparation of the next steps. Here are some pics and a question. This little plastic tray was in the battery location, I'm guessing its not original and was used when someone put in a aftermarket battery.
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Seat is in pretty good condition
Seat is in pretty good condition
This was in the battery tray
This was in the battery tray

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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby SteveB123 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:27 pm

That battery tray thing looks like some sort of spacer/isolater...keep the area between the bottom of the battery and the battery tray ventilated?

Nope, it goes on top. Just checked Bikebandit, electrical, battery. #15, "RUB, BATTERY (UPPER)".
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1982-honda-gold-wing-interstate-gl1100i-battery/o/m151778sch35040
Perhaps to keep someone from puting a wrench down across the terminals.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:58 pm

Interesting. I may just reuse it then after I get a correct battery. Thanks again.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:58 pm

Used the extractor tool to remove the seized and buggered up screw. Sprayed some penetrant on the banjo bolt as I will be removing the master cylinder as a whole to not break the reservoir and as I will be rebuilding the master cylinders in the future.
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Reservoir cap and diaphragm with extractor tool used
Reservoir cap and diaphragm with extractor tool used
Master cylinder in preparation of removal
Master cylinder in preparation of removal
And one of the most important tools of any restorer
And one of the most important tools of any restorer

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patbrandon1
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:31 pm

I use PB Blaster and have had very good results, but it smells funny, and I like it. ;)

Have you ever heard of screw type JIS? That is what most of the so called phillips screws on these bikes are, JIS. That stands for Japanese Industry Standard, and are different from the typical phillips we normally use, and regular phillips screwdrivers will strip them out. I will look for the link from WingAdmin that explains it, and gives a likn to buy them. They are not an easy product to find. One can modify a regular #2 phillips screwdriver a bit to help it seat better. I'll go find the link and post it in a bit. It is worth looking into. Most of the OldWings I work on, have a great deal of the phillips/JIS screws striped out, and this is why.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:41 pm

Yep Pat, I read that yesterday and then hopped on my bike between thunderstorms to get a harbor freight kit that unfortunately was not JIS. But now I have some inexpensive screwdrivers that I can finess and try to be better at working with the Japanese screws. That screw was already stripped and I sprayed a ton of penetrant on it but the sucker was just super seized to the reservoir. Not only was it seized but it was slightly bent. Lucky I didn't break the reservoir extracting it. Now I just need to find another screw somewhere.

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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:43 pm

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=15547&p=82517&hilit=jis#p82517

This is the link about the JIS screwdrivers. It is rather long, but it has pictures, and it will help you out in the future with your quest.

About the plastic part you found in the battery compartment, I think it is from the ping pong table. ;)

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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:44 pm

Fulcrum wrote:Yep Pat, I read that yesterday and then hopped on my bike between thunderstorms to get a harbor freight kit that unfortunately was not JIS. But now I have some inexpensive screwdrivers that I can finess and try to be better at working with the Japanese screws. That screw was already stripped and I sprayed a ton of penetrant on it but the sucker was just super seized to the reservoir. Not only was it seized but it was slightly bent. Lucky I didn't break the reservoir extracting it. Now I just need to find another screw somewhere.


Oops, I didn't see your reply before I sent the link. I think I need a valve job.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:45 pm

Hey now..... I built that ping pong table. lol... :)

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patbrandon1
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:12 pm

Fulcrum wrote:Hey now..... I built that ping pong table. lol... :)


Oh, so that's why you had to get a pic of it into your project? Well, you did a good job making the table, especially when it is missing such an important part.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:20 pm

I'm almost afraid to ask, but what is it missing Pat?

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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:46 pm

Fulcrum wrote:I'm almost afraid to ask, but what is it missing Pat?


This........
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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:03 am

Hate to have to say this Pat, but I think you need to get some Where is Waldo books and study up buddy. It's in there! :D

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Mon Mar 11, 2013 5:55 pm

here are a couple more pics of the things I've done lately. I was finally able to remove the banjo bolt which was stuck in there like a son of a gun. Now as you can see the brake fluid had been leaking a little and was eating up the paint. Then I removed the brake light switch and tested it with a cheap multimeter shown in the photos.
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here you can see how the brake fluid was eating away at the paint
here you can see how the brake fluid was eating away at the paint
checking for continuity reading
checking for continuity reading
testing with circuit closed
testing with circuit closed
testing with circuit open
testing with circuit open

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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:25 pm

SteveB123 wrote:That battery tray thing looks like some sort of spacer/isolater...keep the area between the bottom of the battery and the battery tray ventilated?

Nope, it goes on top. Just checked Bikebandit, electrical, battery. #15, "RUB, BATTERY (UPPER)".
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1982-honda-gold-wing-interstate-gl1100i-battery/o/m151778sch35040
Perhaps to keep someone from puting a wrench down across the terminals.


It's to make sure the battery is in snug, to cushion it from jumping up and down when the bike hits bumps, and to keep the battery case from being rubbed from vibration.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:27 am

Not much to post today other than I am getting slightly annoyed with the seized bolts on this bike. I have used two different penetrants on this sucker and alot of the bolts are super frozen. I had planned on getting all three brake calipers off today and worked on but was only able to safely remove the back caliper. More penetrant and another day till I get the fronts off. I am really starting to worry about the carbs now at this point. I'll just continue to take my time and make sure to not break anything and work at a slower pace. Good thing is that the metal rescue should arrive tomorrow so I will get to test that stuff out and post on how good it works. Fingers crossed.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:09 am

One gallon of metal rescue
One gallon of metal rescue
well the UPS guy came today and dropped off my order from Summit Racing. The first part I'm going to test out with the metal rescue is the gas cap which was seriously rusty, a lot of it was powder rust. I took a toothbrush and with some water just lightly brush part of the gas cap just for comparison during the time test. going to go ahead remove the rear wheel and hopefully gas tank today along with the front brake calipers. will post some updated pics in about 4 to 8 hours to see what the progresses on the gas cap and how well this stuff really works.
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Rusty gas cap
Rusty gas cap
Before submersion. You can see where I lightly brushed some of the powder rust off.
Before submersion. You can see where I lightly brushed some of the powder rust off.
Letting it soak.
Letting it soak.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:08 pm

Progress: after one hour sitting in the metal rescue.
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After one hour.
After one hour.

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Fulcrum
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Re: Scott's 1982 GL1100 Rebuild

Postby Fulcrum » Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:06 pm

well the weather was 70 degrees here in Texas today and sunny, totally beautiful. Perfect day to work on my bike. So first thing I ended up taking off the rear wheel, shocks, fender, tail lights, and tons of bolts and crap. Was not able to get the tank out yet, sun went down and am going to clean parts now. speaking of cleaning parts the metal rescue that I used on the super rusty gas cap is amazing. After letting it set for 8 hours I pulled in out of the liquid and any rust that seems to still be on it literally washed off under the pressure off just water from the sink. this stuff is amazing it just ate up all the rust I didn't have to scrub or do anything to it although scrubbing the park before hand will probably make it work faster. This stuff is going to do an amazing job on a gas tank or any rusty parts .
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after 4 hours
after 4 hours
after 6 hours
after 6 hours
after 8 hours
after 8 hours
after I washed it off in the sink with just water
after I washed it off in the sink with just water
this thing looks brand new
this thing looks brand new
another 1 for comparison
another 1 for comparison




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