volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system shut


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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blkhot08
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:19 pm
Location: Berlin,wi
Motorcycle: 1983 Honda goldwing aspencade. 2008 Yamaha Stratoliner

volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system shut

Postby blkhot08 » Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:53 pm



Hi all new to this site as of today... I have a 83 aspencade that i am having electrical problems with ... I rode the bike today 75mi and it went good on the way back it started sputtering missing lossing power had to down shift to keep going..... made it to a gas station and stopped then restarted it then it went good for about 2 mi. then it started ALL over again , I managed to keep going and got another 8 mi. to home but as I pulled up the drive all power just went out and it would not do anything ... So i was kinda ticked off i went in and sat down to cool off. then i got busy doing some yard work and i looked at the bike and the lights were on...... So I tried to start it but it would only turn over slowly and not start... the battery was at 11-7 volts ...and it is brand new this year.. Any body have any ideas????? Could use some direction!!! thanks :oops:



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WingAdmin
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system s

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:00 am

The first thing I would check is the master (dogbone) fuse? When it fails, it often fails intermittently. That master fuse is made of thin metal, and is right next to the solenoid. They tend to crack as they get old, and when they do crack, they can cause flaky operation like this. Most people replace them with a waterproof fuse holder like this one:



That way you can just plug a regular car "blade" 30 amp fuse into it and not worry about it ever again. I was stranded once because my old "dogbone" fuse cracked and failed. The bike sputtered and died, but when it cooled off, and the master fuse crack closed up again, it started up with no problem.

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blkhot08
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:19 pm
Location: Berlin,wi
Motorcycle: 1983 Honda goldwing aspencade. 2008 Yamaha Stratoliner

Re: volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system s

Postby blkhot08 » Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:24 pm

Thanks a lot I think I'll just start at the. Stator and work my way Up. Its probably the best thing I could do anyway, I don't know a lot about this bike so it would help to get the vitals all done.... :D

kanada
Posts: 31
Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:07 pm
Location: marana az.
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100

Re: volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system s

Postby kanada » Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:17 pm

Could be those three wires off the stator.My were completly melted.Theres a DIY for that in here somewere.Good luck. :)
When all else fails make Beer.

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system s

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:39 pm

If the stator wires melt (or the stator is otherwise disconnected), the bike will stop charging the battery - but it will continue to run, at least until the battery charge is used up, at which point it will begin to sputter and die (because there is insufficient power to properly spark the plugs).

The 30 amp main "dogbone" fuse connects the regulator output to the rest of the bike (i.e. the battery). If this fuse cracks, breaks or otherwise opens, the exact same thing will happen: the bike will continue to run, until the battery starts to die, at which point the engine will sputter and die.

So if your bike sputters and dies, and the battery charge is depleted, you've got a charging problem of some kind. However, if you later start the bike back up and everything works great again, the problem is almost certainly the dogbone fuse. When they get old, they crack, and this crack opens up when the bike gets hot, which causes the stator/regulator to be disconnected, so the battery is not being charged anymore. When the bike cools off, the crack closes up, and the stator/regulator are connected again.

The best thing to do is to replace this old dogbone fuse with an automotive blade fuse holder as I mentioned previously. One of the main reasons is if you are out at 10 pm one night and you blow your dogbone fuse - you aren't going to find a new one at the local gas station! On the other hand, pretty well every gas station sells blade fuses, so you can buy a new 30 amp blade fuse, pop it in, and you're good to go.

robertdawber
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:24 pm
Location: Eliot, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: volts dropped and engine sputtered and electric system s

Postby robertdawber » Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:48 pm

WingAdmin wrote:If the stator wires melt (or the stator is otherwise disconnected), the bike will stop charging the battery - but it will continue to run, at least until the battery charge is used up, at which point it will begin to sputter and die (because there is insufficient power to properly spark the plugs).

The 30 amp main "dogbone" fuse connects the regulator output to the rest of the bike (i.e. the battery). If this fuse cracks, breaks or otherwise opens, the exact same thing will happen: the bike will continue to run, until the battery starts to die, at which point the engine will sputter and die.

So if your bike sputters and dies, and the battery charge is depleted, you've got a charging problem of some kind. However, if you later start the bike back up and everything works great again, the problem is almost certainly the dogbone fuse. When they get old, they crack, and this crack opens up when the bike gets hot, which causes the stator/regulator to be disconnected, so the battery is not being charged anymore. When the bike cools off, the crack closes up, and the stator/regulator are connected again.

The best thing to do is to replace this old dogbone fuse with an automotive blade fuse holder as I mentioned previously. One of the main reasons is if you are out at 10 pm one night and you blow your dogbone fuse - you aren't going to find a new one at the local gas station! On the other hand, pretty well every gas station sells blade fuses, so you can buy a new 30 amp blade fuse, pop it in, and you're good to go.

I was on the Jersey Turnpike many years ago at 3AM-my bike did exactly as you described-and, as Wingman wrote, it was the Dogbone fuse. I did not know much back then but a worker for Bell Telephone came by and he used an alligator clip and some wire to get me going.
Why would you not simply change out the fuse and go from there?
Anyway-keep us posted




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