GL1100 pulser generator removal


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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RhinoWing
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:00 am
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 InterState

GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:18 am



Hello fellow Wingers. A few weeks ago, on my way to a rally i hit a hole in my crankcase. Broke a con rod. I have removed the engine, but is stuck at removing the pulser generator. I am stuck at getting the automatic timing unit off the crankcase extension so that i can get the thick insulation gasket off. Am i missing something? Please help.
Pulser generator removal
Pulser generator removal



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trashtruck
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Location: albany, New York
Motorcycle: 1982 gl1100 interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby trashtruck » Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:11 am

that looks correct, it should come right off.
WHAT IS THE SPEED OF DARK?

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RhinoWing
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Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 InterState

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:48 am

Thanks Trashtruck, some multi purpose lubricant and tapping with a hammer did the trick. I am by no means a mechanic, but i am determined to fix this engine myself, with the help of all the experience on this fantastic site. Replacement engines are not easy to come by in South Africa. I am in the process of removing the rear cover etc. so will be calling for more help as i go along, if i may.
Here is a pic of the hole and the piston.
Hole and piston
Hole and piston

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trashtruck
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby trashtruck » Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:26 am

wow, that looks expensive. $$$
WHAT IS THE SPEED OF DARK?

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moffat
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Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
Interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:37 pm

Rhinowing.
I am based in the UK but live in Noordhoek near Cape Town during the UK winter. If I can help I will but you have a major problem with that engine. I suggest that you establish why the rod came through the casing first then get the casing TIG welded if possible in Cape Town.?
I have a pal in Noordhoek with a Honda CBX who may be able to help find you a welder.

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Wed Apr 17, 2013 12:12 pm

Hi Moffat , thanks for your reply and offer of assistance, but maybe just a little idea o

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:04 am

Hello Moffat,
Sorry for the partial post, but my tablet was acting up last night. Anyway thank you very much for the offer of assistance, but maybe i should first indicate what i have done so far. I have split the casing and found that the ear of the #4 connecting rod have broken off for some reason, could be that the nuts on the bearing caps had come loose. the bearing cap had lodged on top of the crankshaft and hurt the #3 piston. the #4 journal was scratched. I have managed to buy a second hand crankcase, crankshaft and two complete pistons for R2000.00, which is considerably cheap. I have started enquiring about gasket set, timing belts, rings and big end and main bearings. it seems that the rings and bearings are available ex Japan. the complete gasket set and timing belts are available locally. On enquiring from our local Honda Centre about the big end and main bearings, i was asked which colour i need and i was stumped. I have subsequently learned that i need to reference the numbers on the connecting rod and the adjacent crankcase web. Now the two connecting rods from the original engine have the following numbers 468 - S10 and the ones i bought second hand just reads S13. Would this be a problem? I also do not know where to look for the crankcase number. I wonder if i should not just take the crankcase, crankshaft and pistons to an engineering shop to have it measrured up. Will i be able to order bearings this way?
Looking for all the help i can find!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kevin

Ride like the Wing!

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moffat
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Location: Northwich United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
Interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:42 pm

Kevin,
You MUST obtain the maintenance manual on this machine which contains all the information about colour coding of bearings etc. The code on the big end connecting rods are scrathed on the con rod for example but you need to manual to tell you what they mean.
Try and download the maintenace manual from this website but if you have a problem let me know your e mail address and I will send you the information. Honda evidently where very careful in matching the shell bearings both mains and big end in thr factory thus leading to a complicated way of relacing them. As this is the only way I have followed to repair a wing engine I have not had the exoerience of testing a single size bearing with plastigauge.
The parts are available here in UK from Honda specialist DAVID SILVER. Try his websire via Google to compare prices.
Hope this helps
David

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:38 am

Hello Moffat,
I have the Haynes service manual which i downloaded from this site. I am not sure where to find these numbers. I will look closely tomorrow. Do you perhaps have any pics of them. Is colour coding the only
way i can order these bearing shells? Can one not measure the shell bearings with a micrometer? I will search the David Silver site. Any other suggestions? I will PM you my email address shortly.

Thanks
Kevin


Ride like the Wing!

indianakid
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Location: long beach, ca
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100 I

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby indianakid » Sat Apr 20, 2013 12:47 pm

the bearing selection (color code) is so honda when assembling the engines can keep bearing clearances tight with out having to keep the machining of the detail parts as tight. just keep in mind the target for bearing clearance .0008 to .0017 with a max service limit of .0031. so depending on crankshaft journal outside diameter vs case / rod internal diameter the bearing shell thickness is chosen. could you please post your actual case, rod and crank journal diameters (and color / number codes). it would be nice to know as honda does not publish that information. here are some pages from the factory manual that should help you.
Attachments

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Mon Jul 08, 2013 12:40 pm

Hello all, an update of where i am with the repair of my Wing. I have acquired a complete engine with new rings, bearings and cylinder heads with copper gaskets but minus the front and rear covers. (pic3)I have had to give the seller my old cylinder heads. I have cleaned and painted the engine before refitting to the bike. I have a few questions though. Can someone please tell me what the gadget in the top righthand corner of pic1&2 is. In pic3 there is a blocked off Allen key head nut in the top righthand corner.Should i just unscrew this and insert this gadget? When i got the other engine (pic3) the stator bolt was just hand tightened. I tightened his to the specs in the Hayes manual. Another question, is there a special way to fit the pulse generator? Should the engine be at TDC ? Also is there anything else I should be aware of before refitting the rear cover?
pic1
pic1

pic2
pic2

pic3
pic3

pic4
pic4

indianakid
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby indianakid » Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:14 pm

the gadget is an oil pressure sending unit for an electric gauge. if you have the gauge on you bike and want to us it then the answer is yes replace the oil galley plug with the sending unit. other wise leave the galley plug as is and go with the stock installation.

i will have to do some research to correctly answer your question on the pulse generator.

you may want to check the starter clutch and make sure the rollers are clean, free and no flat spots. it is easy to do at this time although you will have to remove the stator rotor again.

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Tue Jul 09, 2013 1:52 am

Hey Indianakid, Thanks for the reply. I have the electric gauge so i will definitely install the oil pressure sending unit. I await your response to the fitment of the pulse generator and will remove the stator rotor and check as suggested. it is relatively easy to do. Cannot wait to get back on the road. We are still having good riding weather in Cape Town.


Kevin

Ride like the Wing!!!!

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moffat
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Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
Interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:57 am

Are you sure you have the oil pressure receiver gauge fitted on the bike as the engine you acquired is from another machine?. Or where the wings sold to South Africa all had oil pressure gauges which is not the case in UK. I have in the past removed the oil gallery plug down on the rear of the right hand side of the engine and temporarily fitted a pressure gauge to check the oil pressure on my wing but replaced the blanking plug afterwards.
I am back in SA on 1st December which I know is time yet but have the HONDA maintenance manual and parts list on my computer if needed. Hopefully you will have it all sorted before hand. MAKE SURE the bores are honed to removed any glaze before fitting new piston rings.

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:10 am

Hello Moffat, good to hear from you again. When you are in SA let me know and we will hook up. I have the oil pressure display on my dash so the oil pressure sending unit should be installed. Pics 1&2 is the previuos engine. you will notice the hole on top of the righthand side casing. Pic 3&4 is the secondhand engine that i bought for R10 000.00. The engine came complete as is including the cylinder heads (already torqued, copper gasket) but minus the front and rear covers. The new rings and bearings had already been fitted by the PO. It was an engine for a project bike, which i convinced him to sell. All i needed to do was clean and spray paint it. I have bought OEM timing belts and starter brushes. After i get a reponse about the positioning of the pulse generator, the engine can go back into the bike. I have downloaded the Haynes maintenance manual from this site and am using that and the How to's from here. my next steps after refitting the engine will be to refit the camshafts and set valve timing, fit new timing belts and set timing and sync the carbs. I read here about bench syncing the carbs, but don't have a clue how that is done or even seen it done before. Is there instructions somewhere on this site? Please shout if there is anything else i should be aware of.

Kevin

Ride like the Wing!!!!!!!!!!

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moffat
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Interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:10 am

kevin. the valve timings are extremely critical as this is an interference engine if the valve timings are out then the piston will strike the valve and bend them.BE VERY careful in following the set up procedure and remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over by means of a spanner . I have bent a valve in the past even by using a spanner so if you feel resistance other than that caused by the valve springs.
I found it better to slacken the tappets off completely to try and avoid valve spring resistance. DO NOT USE the starter motor to turn over until you are certain that the valve timing is correct. Its a bit fiddly but better to do it when the engine is out as putting the cam covers can be a bit tricky as there is not much space and be careful as one of the cam cover bolts is longer than the other 3.

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moffat
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Interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:13 am

Now to the carburettor syncronisation.
This can only be done on a running engine and again there is a simple procedure to follow which is described in the manual. However a 4 gauge test set up needed, they are available on ebay as I bought mine that way.

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moffat
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:13 am

Now to the carburettor syncronisation.
This can only be done on a running engine and again there is a simple procedure to follow which is described in the manual. However a 4 gauge test set up needed, they are available on ebay as I bought mine that way.

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moffat
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:13 am

Now to the carburettor syncronisation.
This can only be done on a running engine and again there is a simple procedure to follow which is described in the manual. However a 4 gauge test set up needed, they are available on ebay as I bought mine that way.

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:20 am

Hi David. not to worry i am aware of all the dangers when doing the timing and syncing the carbs.........i have read these articles so many times i know them by heart ;) I will not do anything that i am not certain about before doing some research and asking some questions. i have bought the sync gauges already before the other engine pack up. One question though, i want to refit the pulse generator but is not sure if there is a special way that it should go on. Does the timing marks have to be lined up etc.


Kevin

Ride like the Wing!!!!

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moffat
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Interstate

Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Sat Jul 13, 2013 5:28 am

Kevin,
The pulse generator is easy to fit with any real pitfalls, just follow the book and its easy.
David

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Sun Jul 21, 2013 2:32 am

Good morning all. Can someone please tell me what the purpose is for the two long bolts for the clutch lifter plate? The reason i am asking is that the bearing in the lifter plate of the engine i bought is for short stubby pin that fits between the lifter plate and the clutch mechanism. I have the other lifter plate with the long pin. The lifter plate on the engine that i bought has all the same size bolts. Can the long bolts go anywhere as long as they are opposite to each other ?




Kevin


Ride like the Wing!!!!

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moffat
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Sun Jul 21, 2013 5:28 am

On my machine two bolts are longer than the others. test the depth of each hole to find out which are the two deepest holes that match the two longer bolts.
Have you followed the procedure as how to tighten up the clutch basket retaining castelled nut????

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RhinoWing
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby RhinoWing » Wed Aug 28, 2013 7:29 am

Hello All, Getting nearer to getting back on the road :D . It has been raining in Cape Town for a few days, but not to worry, we have good riding weather most year round. Just an upate of where I am with the bike. I have fitted the engine back into the frame and want to do the valve clearance setting and timing belt replacement, but have a few reservations. I received the engine with the heads fitted but not the camshafts. I now want to fit the camshafts, fit the new timing belts, set the valve clearance and then sync the carbs. What I have done so far;
1. Fitted the camshafts onto the heads and hand tightened the camshaft holders/cups. Do these cups have to be torqued? Is there marking that the camshafts should line up to on the heads?
2. I have removed the plugs and loosened all the cam adjusters
3. Turned the engine to T-1. #1 piston up. #2 piston up. Is that correct? All rockers are loose except #2 and #4 exhaust rockers. :? .
4. I have fitted the timing back covers and fitted the camshaft driven pulleys, with the "up" on top. The right hand side pulley lines up, but the left handside one is one tooth off. this is the side where the #2 and #4 exhaust rockers are tight. Is this normal? How do I get it to line up?
I have not fitted the new timing belts yet until I am sure that at this stage everything is correct and that the engine is really at TDC.

Some assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Kevin


Ride like the Wing!!!

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moffat
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Re: GL1100 pulser generator removal

Postby moffat » Thu Aug 29, 2013 1:27 am

Kevin,
SLOW DOWN ! Valve timing belts set up is VITAL.
DO NOT ATTEMPT to turn the engine over until you are 101% certain its been done corr3ectly or as its an interference engine the valves could strike the pistons and bend the valves !!!!
Use the set up procedure as explained in the manual you can download from this site, and have a look at the maintenance tips on this website
DO NOT EVEN use the starter motor to turn the engine as the starter motor is strong enough to bend valves if the cambelts have not been set up correctly.
Set the belts up as per the procedure and when happy with the job turn the engine over using a socket spanner on the alternator bolt after removing the inspection plug-Turn it clockwise of course as you do not want to loosen the alternator!
Again sorry to harp on but you MUST have the manual as it gives all information including torque settings which is somewhat fundamental. I am in Cape Town on 1st December
Regards
David




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