Need some help!! (rear brakes)

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Fri Jul 12, 2013 5:47 pm

I'm hoping this will be a simple question, but it is vital that I find a solution.

Today I pulled out my rear brake pads to make sure they were clean (they'd been squealing quite loudly, but working well and not worn down so no need to replace so I'd been advised to give them a bit of a sanding), cleaned em off and put it all back together again without any issues.

I did notice some brake fluid had leaked out while I did this, but thought no big deal.

Once I got on the bike to ride again the back brakes no longer worked; the lever moved very easily but didn't have any affect. I checked the brake fluid and realized it needed topping up so I did that, but still nothing happened (tried pumping the lever quickly and all that).

I've seen on here some things about having to "bleed the brakes" when you change the brake pads. Might this be my solution? I don't want to do it if it isn't necessary; I also don't have the vac for the job.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. I am very new to all of this.

FYI it's an 81 GL1100 Interstate.

Thanks for reading.

Cheers

80-GL100-INT · Post by **80-GL100-INT** » Fri Jul 12, 2013 11:06 pm

Under normal conditions you do not need to bleed them with just a pad inspection/change.

alastair.kj wrote:I did notice some brake fluid had leaked out while I did this, but thought no big deal.

If you noticed any fluid and you did NOT open the bleeder, then you have a leaking seal. If you have no rear brakes now then you should be seeing fluid leaking from it more now. You will probably need to rebuild the caliper.

The easiest way to bleed them is to take off the master cylinder cap, top it off, set cap on loosely, open the bleeder, set a cup or bowl under drip, and do not let the master cyl. get too low. Top it off maybe twice during the process. Close the bleeder pump the pedal 10-15 times and repeat the process until your sure you don't see any air bubbles coming from the bleeder.

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 1:31 am

Keeping it on its side stand and letting gravity do its magic?

RBGERSON · Post by **RBGERSON** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 8:14 am

You need to bleed your brake..and you'll need a friend. get a 2' long piece or 1/4" clear tubing, a wrench that fits the bleeder valve, and a friend. Put the tube on the bleeder valve and hold/tie it straight up(the friend can hold and pump), put the wrench on the nut of the bleeder valve, have the friend pump as fast as they can until they get some pressure on the pedal..then they hold it down you crack the bleeder valve fluid and air should start to fill the tube, close the valve..do it again. If the tube fills up tip it down into a jar and let most of the fluid drain out but not all. Repeat until the brake pedal is hard on the first push.

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 3:25 pm

Thank you. Will try this evening.

What do I do if the pedal is not getting any pressure at all? Would that mean that I likely have a leak in the line somewhere? Though I haven't seen only fluid on the ground anywhere around my bike while it's been parked all night.

Anyway I'll try this and report back.

Cheers.

80-GL100-INT · Post by **80-GL100-INT** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:07 pm

alastair.kj wrote:What do I do if the pedal is not getting any pressure at all? Would that mean that I likely have a leak in the line somewhere? Though I haven't seen only fluid on the ground anywhere around my bike while it's been parked all night.

No pressure means you have air in the line too. You may not notice a leak until you get the air out and get pedal pressure.

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:53 pm

RBGERSON wrote:You need to bleed your brake..and you'll need a friend. get a 2' long piece or 1/4" clear tubing, a wrench..,.

Is this done with the bike on the center or wide stand?

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 6:14 pm

So I followed all these steps, but still can't get any pressure to the pedal.
I've seen in other instructions that I should have the open end of the 2' tube submerged in clean brake fluid while I pump the brakes/open and close the bleeder. Is this necessary?
I don't think that there is an actual leak anywhere in the line, though when I did remove the calliper the other day I disconnected the hydraulic brake line that connects to it; is it possible that I simply did not screw this back on tightly enough and it is letting air in or maybe just connected it incorrectly?

I'm at a loss and really don't want to have to take it in to a shop. Would using a mityvac just save me all this trouble?

Thanks for the help.

80-GL100-INT · Post by **80-GL100-INT** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 8:52 pm

alastair.kj wrote: though when I did remove the calliper the other day I disconnected the hydraulic brake line that connects to it; is it possible that I simply did not screw this back on tightly enough and it is letting air in or maybe just connected it incorrectly?

It is NOT necessary to remove the brake lines when inspecting/changing the brake pads, and by doing so you have allowed a LOT of air into the system. I would also check and make sure you re-installed the copper washers (one on each side of the banjo).

alastair.kj wrote:Would using a mityvac just save me all this trouble?

Yes, using a mighty vac speeds up the process and does a good job of removing all the air. Almost 30 yrs. as a mechanic--

80-GL100-INT wrote:The easiest way to bleed them is to take off the master cylinder cap, top it off, set cap on loosely, open the bleeder, set a cup or bowl under drip, and do not let the master cyl. get too low. Top it off maybe twice during the process. Close the bleeder, pump the pedal 10-15 times and repeat the process until your sure you don't see any air bubbles coming from the bleeder.

--This is how I do them; cars, trucks, motorcycles...without any problems. I do prefer to have help available to pump them and force the air out but it's not a necessity.

You must make sure that the bleeder is closed tight before you ever touch the pedal, if it's not all you are doing is pumping air back in when you let off of it. That's why I prefer to open it up and walk away and let gravity do the work, just make sure the master cylinder stays full.

80-GL100-INT · Post by **80-GL100-INT** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 9:00 pm

Another thought I just had is maybe your brake line is completely worn out and when you apply pressure, your hose is swelling and taking away from applying it to the caliper.

If they were working before you worked on them then it's probably an air problem.

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:47 pm

I did it! Figured what I'd done wrong. Thanks for all the help! This site rocks.

80-GL100-INT · Post by **80-GL100-INT** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 7:03 pm

alastair.kj wrote:I did it! Figured what I'd done wrong. Thanks for all the help! This site rocks.

Care to share as to maybe help others down the road. Even if it was a blonde moment, we ALL have them.

alastair.kj · Post by **alastair.kj** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:54 pm

When I originally went to clean the callipers I had disconnected the brake line to the calliper (I have since learned that this is not necessary). I believe that what I'd done wrong was simply not tighten the banjo bolt enough so as I was bleeding the brakes a very slight amount of air was still making its way in.

Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)

Re: Need some help!! (rear brakes)