83 aspencade rear brake master cylinder question


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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vaughn
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:28 pm
Location: Parker, Pa
Motorcycle: 1983 Gl 1100 Aspencade

83 aspencade rear brake master cylinder question

Postby vaughn » Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:50 pm



I have the rear master cylinder off to rebuild it. I have it apart except the plunger. I got the circlip off but can't get it to come out. I tried air pressure but that did not work. It is pretty corroded like the one shown on here on how to rebuild them. I have the rebuild kit. Also the return spring on the pedal seems weak. It is not broke and it is still hooked on both ends. The bike only has 24,000 miles on it, so it has not been used a lot. I tried to get some lube on the pivot shaft. It seemed like it might be dragging there. Is there a way to grease it. I tried to shoot some lithium grease in there.
Thanks



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Wilcoy02
Posts: 725
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
Location: Marengo, Ohio
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16

1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15


98 valkyrie sold 8/16

Re: 83 aspencade rear brake master cylinder question

Postby Wilcoy02 » Tue Jul 23, 2013 11:08 pm

If you have not changed to ss lines-- Then your pressure is inflating your old rubber lines and your foot pedal will not push it out.
Even though it has not been ridden much the age kills the rubber.

Dale Landan
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:47 pm
Location: Littlerock CA
Motorcycle: 1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade and 1982Gl1100 standard

Re: 83 aspencade rear brake master cylinder question

Postby Dale Landan » Sat Sep 07, 2013 1:50 am

I had the same problem with my 82. Heres what I did using dental picks I cleaned as much of the corresion out as I could then after removing the part that connects to the pin I backed it off then unscrewed the nut to the end of the shaft plunger using a bench vise and some leather protection I put the unit in the vise and compressed it I broke it loose by driving it up some to free the rod then while it was in the up position I cleaned the walls of the bore with "Break Free" (Remington brand. If it's good enough for my guns it should be good enogh for this job and it was. Once every thing is clean beware the spring pressure will and does sent the plunger flying and piston spring and upper seal do end up in "Gremlin" land" meaning some where other than where you wanted them to be. Once everything was out of the master cyclinder i scrubed the walls, using a AR15 type tooth brush and removed all evidence of the eccky poo caca stuff then usung a good rebuild kit put evrything back to geather , reinstalled the master cyclinder, reattached the brake line filled, the master with a new can of DOT 3 large size and proceeded to bleed the brakes did have some assistance for that part it now works great.


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