81 GL1100 project & another fuel tank solution


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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OpenCarryUSMC
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:23 am
Location: Medford, Oregon
Motorcycle: '07 Shadow Aero 750 (GF's)
'84 GL1200A
'82 GL1100I (FOR SALE)
'83 Yam XJ650 (GF's) (Sold)
'02 1100 Shadow Saber
'81 GL1100 standard
'00 750 Shadow ACE (Totaled)
'83 Yam XJ650 Maxim (sold)
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81 GL1100 project & another fuel tank solution

Postby OpenCarryUSMC » Fri Jul 26, 2013 4:54 pm



First I want to say GREAT SITE and GREAT WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE here. I'm a long time mechanic, formally schooled by the military for jet aircraft and by a vocational school for autos. I wrenched for a living on aircraft, military motor vehicles, an a county yard schooling (civilian) and worked 4.5 years on military vehicles and 5 years in a local county shop for a total of 21 years. I've seen a lot, done a lot, and made a lot of field "repairs".....like driving my 1965 MGB from Waikiki to Kaneohe (over the mountain) with no fuel pump--it got me home......

Anyway, I've been riding since I was 21 and other than routine maintenance, motorcycles pretty much intimidate me. I went though a divorce in 2010/11 and in the process got both bikes which had been sitting since 2005. 1) 2002 Shadow Sabre 1100 with bags, shield, Mustang seat, and tons of Kuryakan (sp) goodies and chrome. 2) 81 Goldwing 1100 standard with Vetter fairing/bags and a Hondaline box on the rack. The Goldwing was picked up after crashing a 2000 750 Shadow ACE and losing my first wife in the process. I got it for a good deal, in running condition, to see if "getting back on" was going to work out. Needless to say, about a month and 3000 miles later, I was convinced riding was still fun.

Last summer I pulled out the Shadow, drained the tank, sprayed copious amounts of carb cleaner and WD40 on the linkages and worked them free. Then put a 50/50 Seafoam/fuel mixture into the carbs through an aux fuel supply and using starting fluid to get the bike running. I did that 4 weekends in a row until it would start on its own and run (though roughly) on straight fuel. I then put a couple gallons of fuel in with a HEAVY Seafoam dose and rode it around the block (5 miles out here in the country) which required 10 restarts. I did that about 4 days in a row and it cleaned up enough to go for a ride without my girlfriend babysitting with her car. After about 200 miles it still had a bit of a hiccup but was getting better and I/we put a good 1500 miles on it before the season was up. This year, it's been running great and I've already made several 300 + mile trips.

Which brings me to the GoldWing....which I remember as handling and being sooooo much more comfortable than the Shadow.

Since the GF helped resurrect the Shadow, she was on me to get the Wing going this summer and thought it would be just as "easy" as the Shadow.....Silly Girl.

So we got started last week.....pulled the gas cap and yep....VARNISH.
Pulled the seat and popped off the fuel level sending unit with fingers crossed. No such luck. Extensive rust was visible everywhere above the "varnish" so the tank had to come out and we turned to. I used the manual (think it's a Clymer) and after some cussing and attempted persuasion, gave up on pulling the tank and hit the web. That's when I found this spectacular site.

After reading a bunch of threads on tanks, downloading another manual, etc. It was obvious that my manual was missing a critical step.......pulling the rear wheel and drive. After that, it was almost a piece of cake to get the tank out.

Drained the varnish only to find the reserve pickup screen almost covered with rust and crud. Back to this site to hit the threads on cleaning the tank.

After copious water flushing, I went the CLR route with sloshing and soaking. I'm not totally happy with the outcome on some surfaces (those that had to be sloshed only due to tank openings) but it's serviceable. While the tank was soaking I soaked the sending unit, opened it up, brushed it a bit, and checked continuity and OHMS. It appears to be functioning.

The main pickup flowed well after CLR treatment but the reserve wouldn't even dribble. Two more days with it submerged in CLR and still no flow (but the screen looked nice and clear. I tried SeaFoam in the tube (from the petcock end) with no success, then compressed air...not even a single bubble. I then got serious and tried a piece of A/C Safety Wire....too thin and flexible. Next was 12ga solid copper housewire. That would go through the tube when persuaded with a pair of pliers close to the entrance and hand pressure but I couldn't get it to go through the obstruction. Measuring against the tank it appeared that it was making it to the screen but could have been an inch short.

I'd already read the threads here about resolving such a problem so I dropped some brake cleaner into the tube and let it soak for a few hours and tried again with the wire. Still no go. Having read about using a speedo cable and drill I started looking around. I don't have an old speedo cable but I did have some heavy duty weed trimmer line (triangular shape) and thought....hmmmmmm. I shoved it into the tube, cut it off with as much as I could get in the chuck and went to it. After three pieces (progressively longer) and cutting the business end to a point (hoping for a little drill action) it suddenly went through.......and went through the screen as well. BUT I GOT THE BUGGER OPEN

I flushed the tank with water and noticed the flow out the petcock end was lower than the front (even though pressure should be higher). Dumped the tank and cut a piece of the trimmer line so that it would just enter the screen (no reason to damage it any more), then filled the tank with water. With the water still flowing I put the trimmer line in and hit the drill working it in and out. Presto, water now shoots out further than the main tube and flows nicely. It's sitting out back now flushing with clear water.

While I've been working on the tank I've been working on the carbs and linkages. Initially the throttle wouldn't rotate so I hit all the linkages with WD40. After a short time those had a little movement so I hit them all with carb cleaner and then more WD40. After a half dozen cycles of cleaner and WD, everything is free and rotating though it's still a bit slow to "roll off" when I release the throttle. That may be from the throttle lock on the grip though so I'll be checking that and continuing the clean/lube process.

Last night, when I pulled the bowl drains the two on the right were varnish as expected. However, the two on the left surprised me and I'm wondering if anyone has seen this. On pulling the screws the stuff that came out was varnish smelling but GREEN. Not antifreeze green but more what I would expect from copper corrosion. I've blasted carb cleaner up into the bowls several times and am thinking of shooting some WD in there prior to closing them back up.

I'm off to find some fuel line and an inline filter with which to rig up an external fuel (lot's of SeaFoam) supply until the tank is finished and back.

Any ideas on the copper colored crud from the float bowls would be appreciated. If I get it running I'll put SeaFoam in the oil while it's running in the garage then swap that out before putting a load on it. Tires, all other fluids, timing belts, etc. will get done after I determine if I'll be able to get her going. Will also do the 3 yellow wire change and dogbone fix, as well as a few other things I've seen in the tech tips and 1100 forum. Yeah, I know I should do the timing belts now but I'm on a tight budget and while I wouldn't want to take the old ones out on the road, I'm willing to risk it until it's roadable.


An unloaded gun makes a pretty poor hammer....unless it's a HiPoint. (ME)

OpenCarryUSMC
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:23 am
Location: Medford, Oregon
Motorcycle: '07 Shadow Aero 750 (GF's)
'84 GL1200A
'82 GL1100I (FOR SALE)
'83 Yam XJ650 (GF's) (Sold)
'02 1100 Shadow Saber
'81 GL1100 standard
'00 750 Shadow ACE (Totaled)
'83 Yam XJ650 Maxim (sold)
'82 Suz 125 St/Tr (sold)
Contact:

Re: 81 GL1100 project & another fuel tank solution

Postby OpenCarryUSMC » Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:10 pm

So now I'm trying to get the bike to turn over in order to get SeaFoam into the carbs. With no plugs in it she turns over just fine. With the plugs in it won't go past the first compression. It's on a 200 amp boosting charger so I'm thinking that maybe I'm just not getting a good connection between the clamps on the charger leads and the battery cables.

I was planning to get use starting fluid to make the bike run and draw SeaFoam into the carbs but I'm not sure if it will do that just cranking it over. Does anyone know if cranking it (with appropriate breaks to keep from frying electrics or the starter) will be sufficient to draw the SeaFoam through the fuel lines and into the carbs from an aux fuel supply?
An unloaded gun makes a pretty poor hammer....unless it's a HiPoint. (ME)

bustedwing
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Re: 81 GL1100 project & another fuel tank solution

Postby bustedwing » Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:40 pm

The bad thing about starting fluid is it dries the cylinders and makes it hard to turn over. You might have a good connection, but dry cylinders. You might have to just run Seafoam thru the tank until it picks up enough to run thru the carbs. I have seen them so bad you have to boil the carbs to break loose the varnish then rebuild them. Keep in mind there are some very small jets that get plugged easily and the more Seafoam you can get into those little ports the better.
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Wingsconsin
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Re: 81 GL1100 project & another fuel tank solution

Postby Wingsconsin » Mon Jul 29, 2013 3:19 pm

You are more than likely facing a carb cleaning (off bike disassembly)
Here is the green crud I found in a non-running 650 this spring..





If yours looks anything like this...waste no time with Seafoam and get busy..
Buy an Ultrasonic Cleaner and Simple Green and statrt cleaning ..Carb Dip too for brass parts but be aware that the carb dip can discolor aluminum so no carb bodies in the dip...
This is the bottom of a float bowl on a RUNNING GL1100 and the cleaning after an Ultrasonic bath




Postings are my opinions based on experience and acquired knowledge.
Your results may vary. Universal disclaimers apply.


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bustedwing
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Re: 81 GL1100 project & another fuel tank solution

Postby bustedwing » Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:03 pm

This is true. If the carbs are anything like these pictures, don't even bother with trying Seafoam, it's going to take a major cleaner.


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