Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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kc0jov
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:04 am
Location: Charlotte, NC
Motorcycle: 1981 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim (My First, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (My current project bike, 95,000+ mi)
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (My current daily driver, 30,000 mi)

Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby kc0jov » Sun Sep 29, 2013 6:10 pm



Hi All,

After an almost 4 year wait, I am finally embarking on the rebuild of my 1983 GL1100 Aspencade. While I knew it was in rough shape when I bought it, I didn't fully anticipate how bad it really was. The PO really did a number on it. He admitted to redoing the carbs when I bought it, but having seen the rest of the bike, I am a bit suspicious. It is in really poor shape. For example: when I was pulling the exhaust last week, I realized that only the studs on the manifold were holding it up...the rear bolts were missing. Wiring was a rats-nest, with a short somewhere. And that is just the tip of the iceberg.

The core reason for the engine rebuild is the classic low-RPM knock. I tried syncing up the carbs, but that didn't do the trick. Did a compression test, and the numbers are way low on #2 and a little better on #4. #1 and #3 weren't too bad (almost identical to each other, but sitting around 151). So I definitely need to take a closer look at the internals. As the engine has nearly 100k on it, I don't feel too bad about cracking it open and checking tolerances.

So....to the request. Obviously we can't just bolt the GL engine directly to an Engine Stand. I have seen some pictures online of some builds that people have done for an adapter, but they all involve welding, of which I do not have access to the equipment.

I was curious if anyone had one of these that they no longer needed that they might be willing to part with? If not, does anyone have a bolt-together design they would be willing to share?

Thanks in advance,

Luke
--

1981 Yamaha Maxim 550, XJ550 (My first, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (+95,000mi - My first Project bike, work in progress)
2000 Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (30,000mi - My current daily driver)


Thanks,

Luke

--
1981 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim (My First, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (My current project bike, 95,000+ mi)
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (My current daily driver, 30,000 mi)

User avatar
moffat
Posts: 264
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:30 pm
Location: Northwich United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
Interstate

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby moffat » Sat Oct 05, 2013 5:19 am

I removed the engine from my machine as per the manual using a trolly jack with a small plank of wood on it. I then enlisted a strong friend to help me lift it onto a bench made of long planks of wood on treastles. I never used an engine stand at all and found the job quite easy really. All the removed left hand parts went into bins on the left of the plank and all the right hand parts into bins on the right. I then used my workbench to work on the bits that needed fixing and I replaced EVERYTHING that looked suspect as did not want to do it again. The primary chain had an inch of slack in it but was not noisy but as there is no manufactures stated tolerance I changed it anyway.
Be very careful not to get the new and old piston rings mixed up particularly the oil control rings-I remove all rings check the clearances and make a note of them and break them straight away to avoid any mistakes .
The most difficult job I found personally was refitting the left hand pistons back as I was one my own and its tricky and easy to break a ring. I assembled the crankcase halves with the engine in the horizontal position on the bench and used long screwed stud iron as guides going through the crank case bolt holes and adjusted nuts on the stud iron to GENTLY wind then together whilst exerting finger pressure on the piston rings into the chamfered bores.

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Sagebrush
Posts: 96
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 5:47 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100
1982 GL1100
2001 GL1800 CSC Trike
2002 GL1800

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby Sagebrush » Sat Oct 05, 2013 8:34 am

Check your timing belts as the source for the knock. If one of them is off a tooth it could be responsible, I would suspect the right hand side given your compression numbers. The right hand side is also the most difficult of the two to align properly. If no gas or water was found in the oil and you cannot find any evidence of metallic flakes in the oil when you drain it then I would resist tearing into the engine until you do some further investigation as to the source of the knock.

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Fatwing Chris
Posts: 741
Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:10 pm
Location: Ont.,Canada
Motorcycle: 2004 ABS Model Goldwing

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby Fatwing Chris » Sat Oct 05, 2013 12:21 pm

Seeing as it is a fairly low mileage for a Wing motor there shouldn't be a lot wear at this point unless is was really,really badly neglected.As in no oil changes or anti-freeze intrusion.Seems to me t's more likely that you could have some stuck rings that could very likely be cured without pulling the motor at all.If you are set on rebuilding it anyway you might want to look into part availability before you start.Thought I'd read not long ago that someone was having to find rings and brgs.They had to find parts from something else to matchup to this motor.
If I'da known it would last this long,I'da taken better care of it.
Chris
Double Dark
Darkside # 1602

User avatar
moffat
Posts: 264
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:30 pm
Location: Northwich United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
Interstate

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby moffat » Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:18 am

I agree that more causal analysis is needed before you pull the engine apart. What are all the cylinder pressures and are you doing the compression rest it with the throttle wide open and the kill switch off?
Have you pulled the gauze filter out at the bottom of the right hand side of the engine and checked for metal l swarf Its common to find a black residue that is from the clutch plates.
These engines are very robust and whilst the ideal cylinder pressure at sea level is 171 PSI the bike will still run well with much lower pressure . Does the bike burn a lot of oil, ?
For example If the cam belts are a tooth out which is easy to do the engine will rattle alarmingly at low revs

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Britanicus
Posts: 142
Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:38 pm
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 GoldWing

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby Britanicus » Tue Oct 08, 2013 6:30 am

moffat wrote:I agree that more causal analysis is needed before you pull the engine apart. What are all the cylinder pressures and are you doing the compression rest it with the throttle wide open and the kill switch off?
Have you pulled the gauze filter out at the bottom of the right hand side of the engine and checked for metal l swarf Its common to find a black residue that is from the clutch plates.
These engines are very robust and whilst the ideal cylinder pressure at sea level is 171 PSI the bike will still run well with much lower pressure . Does the bike burn a lot of oil, ?
For example If the cam belts are a tooth out which is easy to do the engine will rattle alarmingly at low revs



My bike's compression is about 65-70 cold and 70-75 warm. It is now starting to burn oil and I am getting ready to change the engine.

But it still runs fine, maybe not as much power as I recall having years ag.

User avatar
moffat
Posts: 264
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:30 pm
Location: Northwich United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
Interstate

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby moffat » Tue Oct 08, 2013 10:47 am

Ok its spanner time for you!

kc0jov
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:04 am
Location: Charlotte, NC
Motorcycle: 1981 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim (My First, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (My current project bike, 95,000+ mi)
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (My current daily driver, 30,000 mi)

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby kc0jov » Thu Oct 10, 2013 7:25 pm

Sagebrush wrote:Check your timing belts as the source for the knock. If one of them is off a tooth it could be responsible, I would suspect the right hand side given your compression numbers. The right hand side is also the most difficult of the two to align properly. If no gas or water was found in the oil and you cannot find any evidence of metallic flakes in the oil when you drain it then I would resist tearing into the engine until you do some further investigation as to the source of the knock.


Timing belts was the first thing I checked shortly after I bought her (after I tried synching the carbs). Timing does not appear to be the issue. All of my other research points to the rod bearings or the shaft itself, so that is why I am going the rebuild route. Also, given the in-balance on the Compression numbers, I am concerned that I have some other issues brewing.

I figured now would be a good time to do this, as I need to inspect the wiring harness (combination of work the PO did and a yet-unidentified short). That will be easier with the engine out of the frame. Plus, I can do the clutch while I'm there (didn't realize until last week that the only way to replace the clutch was with the engine out...so might as well do it while I have the access).
Thanks,

Luke

--
1981 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim (My First, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (My current project bike, 95,000+ mi)
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (My current daily driver, 30,000 mi)

kc0jov
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:04 am
Location: Charlotte, NC
Motorcycle: 1981 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim (My First, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (My current project bike, 95,000+ mi)
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (My current daily driver, 30,000 mi)

Re: Engine Stand Needed for an 83 1100A rebuild

Postby kc0jov » Thu Oct 10, 2013 7:29 pm

moffat wrote:I agree that more causal analysis is needed before you pull the engine apart. What are all the cylinder pressures and are you doing the compression rest it with the throttle wide open and the kill switch off?
Have you pulled the gauze filter out at the bottom of the right hand side of the engine and checked for metal l swarf Its common to find a black residue that is from the clutch plates.
These engines are very robust and whilst the ideal cylinder pressure at sea level is 171 PSI the bike will still run well with much lower pressure . Does the bike burn a lot of oil, ?
For example If the cam belts are a tooth out which is easy to do the engine will rattle alarmingly at low revs


I'll have to get the compression numbers when I get home, but the left side is significantly lower than the right (outside tolerance), and there was 5-10 variation between 2&4 on the left (1&3 on the right were fairly close if I remember).

I had throttle open and kill engaged while testing.

Yes, the bike is burning oil, which is another reason I want to check the internals.


Thanks,

Luke

--
1981 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim (My First, sold)
1983 Goldwing Aspencade, GL1100A (My current project bike, 95,000+ mi)
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic Fi, VN1500N1 (My current daily driver, 30,000 mi)


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