Testing a Regulator / Rectifier


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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dph03
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Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby dph03 » Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:15 pm



I am having a charge problem. Battery is good. I believe I have test 13.5 volts while running. Is there a way to test the Regulator/ Rectifier ?



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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby RBGERSON » Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:41 pm

Yep, in the shop manual on 16-6
+ -
reverse direction =6,000 ohms on 3 yellows - on green
red/white 3 yellows

normal direction = 5-40 ohms green 3 yellows
3 yellows red/white









+
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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virgilmobile
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:58 pm

And that tests the 6 diodes in the rectifier part of the module...it does not test the regulator part.
Unfortunately,it can not be tested but under operation....

As far as your charge problem...the 13.5 volts....
exactly where was that measured..where was the meter attached
what RPM was the engine running.
How long was the engine running before the voltage was measured..
Is there any add on equipment (non OEM)..eg,lights,radio,CB,etc...
What is the condition of the battery...Has it been load tested.

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dph03
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby dph03 » Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:09 pm

Thanks!
I'll do more testing tonight.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:33 pm

What I would consider normal.
At 1000 rpm and after 5 minutes of running at 2500-3000 rpm( this gives the battery a chance to recover).
13.8 volts measured directly at both battery posts.
Up to but not exceeding 14.4 volts on the battery at 3500 rpm.
A few tenths off is tolerable.
It should stay within the 13.8-14.4 range.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:35 pm

Forgot to ask...what charging problem do you have.?

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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby RBGERSON » Mon Oct 07, 2013 4:18 pm

BOy what I wrote doesn't help much in that format..things changed from my message to my posted message..all out of line tried again but it rearranged it again..so not going work..weird as I am editing it again it looks good and I preview and looks good then I post and it's all out of line???? So I added all the periods to get it line up....

.........meter leads..................... pos + ........... neg
reverse direction =6,000 ohms on ....3 yellows ... on green
..........................................red/white ..... 3 yellows

normal direction = 5-40 ohms .......... green ..... 3 yellows
............................................ 3 yellows .... red/white
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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dph03
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby dph03 » Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:03 am

Based on miles. If I run like 120 mikles the battery wears down and is not charging as I run. I charge every night and don't usually have a problem. If I run like 50 miles to and from work, around the neighborhood, no problem. I hope to do some testing tonight.
Question: Based on your 100's of reply's on this subject. Would you guess the stator or rectifier has the problem? Thx All!

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thrasherg
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby thrasherg » Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:54 am

There really is no way to guess if it's a stator or the regulator. The stator is a lot easier to test as you just measure the resistance across the three yellow wires, to make sure they all have the same resistance and then measure the resistance from each yellow wire to the chassis (stator must be fitted to engine). You should have infinite resistance between any yellow wire and the chassis.
From what I have read, both the stator and regulators seem to fail at similar rates (maybe the regulators fail a lit bit more than the stators) but it's so close, you can't really guess which one failed, you have to test them with a multimeter. Remember that if the regulator has failed and you buy a new one, heat is the worst enemy for a regulator so be sure to make a good thermal connection between the regulator and it's mounting to better dissipate any heat. If you can use a little bit of silicon heat paste to help with the transfer of heat from the regulator to the chassis mounting.

Gary

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virgilmobile
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:39 am

And obviously your charge problem may not be related to either one.
There's a battery,wiring and add on stuff to consider also.
Example...add a pair of halogen driving lamps and the bike will never keep the battery charged.

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dph03
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Location: Harisburg, PA
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Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby dph03 » Tue Oct 08, 2013 10:13 am

Thx! Yes I have add-ons. The battery is 1 years old and heavy duty. Wiring, lots.... don't want to go there.
I may just get one of those charging packs for emergency's. Twice I jumped it and it rode for some time, 50 miles once and I felt the drain. Sat. it was 20 miles after a charge and no drain.....
Last words?
THX! THX!

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virgilmobile
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82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Testing a Regulator / Rectifier

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Oct 08, 2013 11:18 am

Last word? never. :lol:

The gl1000-1100-1200 were designed with a suitable charging system.
If kept in OEM condition.
Add corrosion and other equipment on it and it will certainly fail to some degree.

At its best,my 1100 had about 75 watts of power at 3500 rpm extra that I could tap for bling.
I just left it OEM.




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