One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement


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patbrandon1
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1981 Honda CM400C

One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:44 am



If anyone that has made the switch to LED bulbs could help me, I would appreciate it. I have looked at many bulbs on the net, and what I would like to know is, if you are happy with how your bulbs illuminate the lenses on you Goldwing, could you PLEASE tell me where you got them, and if possible, what the bulb number and manufacturer are? :?

I've looked at too many, and now I am all confused. Your experience will save a few of the brain cells I do have left. Anyone that answers this will receive a box of homemade chocolate chip cookies. :D

Thank you for your time. :)



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Sagebrush
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby Sagebrush » Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:01 am

I've had no luck with just replacing the bulb with an LED version with the exception of the bulbs in the speedometer and tachometer. The illumination was always unsatisfactory. On my more naked bikes I replaced the whole turn signal assembly with LED versions which have worked quite well.

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80-GL100-INT
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby 80-GL100-INT » Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:43 pm

This is what I bought for my '80. Brake, Bag signals, Faring signals...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-1157-22-SMD ... ce&vxp=mtr
If "WE THE PEOPLE" don't defend our rights...Who will?
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lacanars
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby lacanars » Tue Nov 19, 2013 4:30 pm

I also bought mine off ebay, I had lots of add on lights so just kept buying what I needed, I did find that the first ones I bought for the tail/brake light were 16 SMD, I wanted to get it brighter so I looked for one with more SMD's on it, I think it was like 32 or something like that, made a big difference. I think it cost me a total of $80 to do the whole bike, but like I said I have somewhere around 20 extra lights on my bike too. I also put a SilverStar Ultra headlight and some LED driving lights on while I was at it, well worth the time and money.

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redbug
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby redbug » Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:52 am

Lacanars...Did you happen to change the #57 bulbs in the speedometer/tachometer housings? If so do you remember the model # of the led bulb? Thank you.....
" Ridin on Tulsa Time "

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Wilcoy02
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby Wilcoy02 » Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:24 pm

I too am looking to replace those bulbs and the temp and gas gauges.

ANYBODY HAVE THE LED REPLACEMENT BULB NUMBERS FOR THESE PLACES???????????

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redbug
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby redbug » Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:10 pm

I went on ebay and typed in #57 LED bulb. Found a bunch of them. The lengths are different on some of the bulbs and I not sure of the clearance in the housing. That's the why if you did question. Trying to save a step. Thanks,we will get er figured out.
" Ridin on Tulsa Time "

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80-GL100-INT
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby 80-GL100-INT » Fri Nov 22, 2013 3:48 pm

Someone here a while back, shared this link in a similar thread...maybe it will help.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/
If "WE THE PEOPLE" don't defend our rights...Who will?
"Government's first duty is protect the people, not run their lives."...Ronald Reagan

http://www.powdercoat.tk/

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lacanars
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby lacanars » Fri Nov 22, 2013 5:26 pm


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patbrandon1
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Sun Nov 24, 2013 4:15 am

I would like to thank everyone for your input and replies. Especially lacanars for a good comprehensive list. This is what I was looking for. Along with what you suggested, I also ordered these...

For the amber rear blinker lights.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111016425052?ss ... 1439.l2649

So from now on, for others looking to convert to LEDs, this is a pretty complete list.

Remember that when you do switch to LEDs for blinkers, you will need to change to an electronic flasher instead of mechanical.
And for clarification and any trouble you may have doing this, the following link may help. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11229#ixzz2lYJnGvJb

Thanks again for the help putting a good list together. You guys rock!

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ram11397
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby ram11397 » Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:09 pm

thanks for all the info, you asked question i was going to, great winter project changing lights

Rick
Rick
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mz250ts-1
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby mz250ts-1 » Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:43 pm

Thank You all for this information .
Just what I have Ben looking for.
Great site!
Best regards end Happy Holiday season!!!!
Zoran

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:03 am

It seems that I screwed up. I now understand that I need to put the same color LED bulb behind the same color lense. Check out this post... viewtopic.php?f=4&t=19916 :oops:

But I noticed that the others that posted in THIS thread had also ordered white bulbs, did any of you notice a difference in color when you put the lense back on? :?:

When I do get it all straightened out, I will post a new comprehensive list of what I used. :)

Thanks for your patience with me in my learning process. :!:

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Tue Dec 17, 2013 9:12 pm

Well, I ordered the right LEDs for my Wing. Here is what I ordered.

Front amber lights/turn signals http://www.ebay.com/itm/380211847327?ss ... 1439.l2649

Rear amber turn signals http://www.ebay.com/itm/161173595519?ss ... 1439.l2649

Brake Lights http://www.ebay.com/itm/201002684739?ss ... 1438.l2649

When they arrive I will make a video of their comparisons to the standard bulbs. I do have two small lights on my trunk that I need to get LEDs for yet, but I haven't gone out in the Freeze lately to get them out and see what bulbs I need.

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patbrandon1
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:07 am

I replaced the white LED that seemed to be causing a greenish tint to the blinker when installed, with an amber colored LED as per a suggestions from other Goldwing riders. However, it still had quite a bit of a green tint to it. Is this as good as it gets? I bought very good bulbs, at $12 a pair. Here's a video of it that I made this morning. By the way, it was freezing rain and just plain yucky weather.




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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:22 am

How close is the color of the LED to the color of the lens? I know when I put them in my 1100, the color was quite close, and there was no greenish tint at all.

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:01 pm

WingAdmin wrote:How close is the color of the LED to the color of the lens? I know when I put them in my 1100, the color was quite close, and there was no greenish tint at all.


Well WindAdmin, the 1156 for the rear has a bit of a green tint to it. In the following video where I am showing a nice amber color for the front, you can see the rear blinker reflecting off of a white wall, and you can see the green tint to it. The front was bright, and a very nice amber color, HOWEVER, it was a tiny bit too big to fit into the hole in the front blinker assembly. As you will see in the second vid. So I have to order some more. Again. :(

Front and Rear LEDs Blinking




Not Fitting In Front Lense




The reason I started this topic was to avoid some of the guessing, and was hoping someone would post a nice little list that was easy to follow, and order from. But, hopefully, when I am done with all this, I might be able to supply that list. Do you remember what LEDs you put in your 1100? :?:

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:14 pm

The ones I put in my 1100 were more like this, with a very high output Cree LED at the end, and a few high output LEDs around the edge:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-25-W ... 35c94f99e3


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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:30 am

Thanks for the input WingAdmin. I have a quick question. I've gotten the red ones for the brake/tail light. Do you believe there was enough light from the red LED to properly light up the license plate? I was thinking about adding a small white bulb facing down on a little bracket I made, to shine through the clear lens onto the plate. Am I over thinking this?

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:00 am

patbrandon1 wrote:Thanks for the input WingAdmin. I have a quick question. I've gotten the red ones for the brake/tail light. Do you believe there was enough light from the red LED to properly light up the license plate? I was thinking about adding a small white bulb facing down on a little bracket I made, to shine through the clear lens onto the plate. Am I over thinking this?


There was, but it lit up the license plate red, which in some locales will get you in trouble. I added a small, flat white LED, I think it was this one:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... e-dac/213/



I pulled the wedge base off it and soldered wires directly to the leads, then wired those into the running lights.

Incidentally I did the exact same thing to my trailer.

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby tj00093 » Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:15 pm

I read all the posts with interest, having converted my '78 CX500 to all LEDs about eight years ago. Now, I just finished the conversion on my '81 GL1100i. Some of the posts have good lists of specific bulbs, but I thought I might share some general principles along with some specific suggestions.
(1) Don't assume that the more SMD LEDs a bulb has, the better or brighter it is. A single-LED Luxeon or CREE bulb can be MUCH brighter than a bulb with 45 little SMD chips. The key variables here are the viewing angle of the LED and the purpose of the bulb enclosure.
(2) For example, I chose yellow, single LED Luxeon bulbs with 130 degree viewing angle (also might be termed "light beam dispersion") for front and rear turn signals. Why use a less bright bulb with 360 degree beam dispersion when the rear signal lenses are flat (180 degrees) and the front signal lenses already are curved within the fairing to be both aerodynanic and viewable from both the side and the front? In both cases, wider dispersion bulbs simply result in more complete - but less strikingly bright - yellow lens covers. Similarly, just use larger-but-single-chip bulbs for the gauge warning lights. . . you really only look at them when they're "staring at you straight in your face," so to speak.
(3) Since the warning lights are different colors, I wanted to reinforce what others have written: use LEDs that put out the same color as the plastic they shine through! You will be amazed at how much more vivid (and not "washed out") the colors are. This advice also extends to red running-lights/reflectors.
(4) I noted some comments about the blue high-beam indicator being annoyingly bright and the water temp and fuel level gauges being too dim. . . I have a fix for both. SuperbrightLEDs carries LED bulbs with frosted-glass globes around the LED. These yield a much softer, less piercing, beam. Use a blue bulb for the high-beam indicator and a green bulb for the fuel/temp gauge, BUT. . . REMOVE THE METAL SURROUND FROM AROUND THE BULB! It is not necessary because LEDs give off almost no heat, and now the lighting intensity blends in perfectly with the other gauges.
(5) Although changing to an electric flasher unit was all I needed when I did my CX conversion, when I only made that change on the GL1100, the turn signal lights still did not work properly on both the front and rear. When signaling right turn, for example, the right hand bulbs flashed dim-bright-dim-bright instead of off-bright-off-bright; the same thing happened on the left side. I discovered two easy fixes for this. First, all you have to do is replace the LED turn warning lights with stock incandescent bulbs and there is enough resistance to correct the problem. Many people talk about using 30 ohm line resistors as a fix, but because the resistance of the incandescent blinker warning bulbs measures only .45 ohms, I chose to use 5 ohm /12 volt line resistors and wired them in to the warning bulb harness. I then mounted them on the heavy metal steering weight, as resistors can get very hot and the metal weight can act as a heat-sink. Truthfully, I think this was all overkill, because the resistors only get power and generate any heat for the few milliseconds that the turn signals blink on.
(6) Finally, someone questioned what color the tail/brake light bulbs should be, given that they also illuminate the license plate. I resolved that by going with VERY expensive (but very bright) 360 degree RED tail/brake bulbs, but wired in and secured a bright, multiple-LED, white, rectangular, flat panel (sold to be installed for interior dome-light replacements), which fits perfectly in the bottom of the tail light enclosure, and is not even visible. . . all that shows is a brightly illuminated Florida Antique Motorcycle tag under the red tail light!

PS: I have 10 running-light reflectors and replaced the white incandescent bulbs with red instrument-panel LEDs from eBay. Used to be that leaving these light on while stopped at night for a stretch took the volt meter down from 13 to 8v. . . now the needle barely moves!

Thanks to All! Hope this adds something to the discussion! Tom in Florida

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:32 am

Some excellent comments. Your item 5, is normally caused when the flasher is changed to a two-pin electronic flasher. The electronic circuitry needs power and a ground in order to operate. It gets its power from the actuating circuit, and for ground, it uses the light output. It sends a little bit of current through when in the "off" cycle, which is what is required to operate the electronic timer inside of it. This little bit of current does nothing to an incandescent light, but there's enough there to light up an LED dimly.

A simple solution to this is to switch to a 3-pin electronic flasher. These types of flashers have a third connector, which is used by the electronic circuit for its ground, instead of using the output.

For item 6, the flat white panel, I did the exact same thing in both my GL1500 and GL1100. It works great!

tj00093 wrote:(5) Although changing to an electric flasher unit was all I needed when I did my CX conversion, when I only made that change on the GL1100, the turn signal lights still did not work properly on both the front and rear. When signaling right turn, for example, the right hand bulbs flashed dim-bright-dim-bright instead of off-bright-off-bright; the same thing happened on the left side. I discovered two easy fixes for this. First, all you have to do is replace the LED turn warning lights with stock incandescent bulbs and there is enough resistance to correct the problem. Many people talk about using 30 ohm line resistors as a fix, but because the resistance of the incandescent blinker warning bulbs measures only .45 ohms, I chose to use 5 ohm /12 volt line resistors and wired them in to the warning bulb harness. I then mounted them on the heavy metal steering weight, as resistors can get very hot and the metal weight can act as a heat-sink. Truthfully, I think this was all overkill, because the resistors only get power and generate any heat for the few milliseconds that the turn signals blink on.
(6) Finally, someone questioned what color the tail/brake light bulbs should be, given that they also illuminate the license plate. I resolved that by going with VERY expensive (but very bright) 360 degree RED tail/brake bulbs, but wired in and secured a bright, multiple-LED, white, rectangular, flat panel (sold to be installed for interior dome-light replacements), which fits perfectly in the bottom of the tail light enclosure, and is not even visible. . . all that shows is a brightly illuminated Florida Antique Motorcycle tag under the red tail light!

PS: I have 10 running-light reflectors and replaced the white incandescent bulbs with red instrument-panel LEDs from eBay. Used to be that leaving these light on while stopped at night for a stretch took the volt meter down from 13 to 8v. . . now the needle barely moves!

Thanks to All! Hope this adds something to the discussion! Tom in Florida

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby patbrandon1 » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:31 pm

Thanks tj00093, very nice writeup of your expeirence with LEDs. Between you, WingAdmin, and others, there is a great deal for someone to go on as to how to make this conversion. BUT, if I may ask, is it possible for you to list what bulbs you used and where you bought them? :?:

I'm just trying to put together a comprehensive list of that for easy access to people that want to go this way. I will give shout outs and cookies to anyone that helps with this list. :D

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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby jim8mad » Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:44 pm

You are asking all the same questions I have. Which bulb is best for each application, what fits where, is it really effective, and where did you get them. I can read all the reviews I want on manufacturer sites, but sites like this one are what really matter to me.

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ram11397
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Re: One More Try...LED Bulb Replacement

Postby ram11397 » Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:16 pm

Did the list ever get made??


Rick
1982 GL 1100 Aspencade


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