Pulse Generator


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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echinus1988
Posts: 108
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:53 pm
Location: Denver, Colorado
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Aspencade

Pulse Generator

Postby echinus1988 » Sun Nov 24, 2013 10:11 pm



Instead of riding on the other topic, I decided to start a new one.

Attached is where I am right now. Engine pulled and the pulse generator taken apart. The center portion spins free along with the back plate. I assume that that is not normal.

Now once again I am asking for help to get this once and for all, up and running.

So my questions are:
1. Should that center section spin or is that a definite indication that the pin is broken.
2. Do I remove the center bolt to get to the pin or will I have to remove the entire rear cover again.
3. Can the pulse generator be put in 180 degrees out of sequence? Or is the spark controlled by the spark unit?
4. Anything that I have missed that you can suggest would be appreciated.

FYI, I spent 2 hours or more working on the pulse generator, couldn't get it. Pulled the engine Now I can work on it easily.



Dale Landan
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:47 pm
Location: Littlerock CA
Motorcycle: 1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade and 1982Gl1100 standard

Re: Pulse Generator

Postby Dale Landan » Mon Nov 25, 2013 5:35 am

I had a lot of questions on my pulse generator also and I became a little better versed on it. Now that you have the engine out and the rear cover off take out the bolts under neath the p.g. cover there are 3 and remove the unit from the engine. Now you will see a small pin that aligns the unit to the case pin goes thru the plastic spacer ( DO NOT LOOSE THIS PIN). You now have access to the drive shaft which has two pins one on each end. Notice the way the shaft come out. One pin aligns with the engine for correct timming the other pin on the aft end aligns with the mechanical advance unit and NO the unit should not rotate as a whole only the cam should turn inside the black fixed thingsers attached with two screws these are the condensers and fire twice on each rotation one set of sparks is sent to the exhausting cylinders so no harm is done the other set is sent to the firing cylinders. You may wish to check the air gap when you reinstall this critter it should be 0.50 to 0.70 mm (0.20 to 0.28). Hope this is not too confusing and that it helps. If you have not already done so you might consitter downloading the "Honda Maintaince Manual for 1980 thru 1983 don't go to Clymbers they suck.

User avatar
echinus1988
Posts: 108
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:53 pm
Location: Denver, Colorado
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Aspencade

Re: Pulse Generator

Postby echinus1988 » Mon Nov 25, 2013 2:05 pm

Hi Dale,

Am I reading this right?

The rear cover has to come off?

I didn't dump oil because it was brand new and I don't want to take the chance of reusing it and putting some contaminate in the engine case but don't want to throw away oil that is not even used yet. But from what you said, it sounds like I have to remove the rear cover and that means draining oil.

You're right, Clymer sucks! It doesn't mention the pulse generator and uses pictures from 1979 and before. I'll look at the download section, it will be worth it if it gives me better information.

Maybe someday in the future, I'll actually be able to ride the bike again. On a positive note, it only takes me 1.5 hours to remove the engine now!

Dale Landan
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:47 pm
Location: Littlerock CA
Motorcycle: 1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade and 1982Gl1100 standard

Re: Pulse Generator

Postby Dale Landan » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:00 pm

If the engine is out of the frame look at the back side see the vacuum unit with the black line attached? There shoud be three screws may be small 6mm bolts. remove this cover. Look for the three mounting bolts shoulb be 8mm or may be 10 mil scoket remove them then Gently remove the center bolt if required and remove the cam. withdraw the drive shaft but only if the whole plate rotates if only the cam with the bolt turns when the engine is rotated you should be in good shape, set the engine up at TDC by looking thru the covered hole behind the left carbs this is the timing window you can use the alternator shaft to rotate but only turn it clockwise looking from the back of the engine forward. If the either of the pins on the drive shaft have been broken off let me know you should not be able to rotate the shaft by hand the formost pin times the unit to the engine in side the back housing the other pin at the aft side times the advance unit. As you remove the unit from the engine, do not loose the aligement pin (they some times come out when the plastic spacer is removed). If every thing else is in good order lube the plate where the movement occures near the two springs if you have a vaccum pump you van attach it to the line and check that the unit operates the advance unit it should be about 7 hg I think, I don't remember for sure but I can look it up for you if needed.




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