Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.


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WingNutJC
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'06 BMW R1100S

Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby WingNutJC » Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:53 am





Apologies for this new thread, but I have already searched *everywhere*, and I'm at :evil: point.

General consensus is that the level is 15.5 mm ... but I have occasionally seen a reference to 21mm.

Now: my situation: recently acquired bike. 58k miles. Inter-carb fuel pipe leaks - now fixed.
Removed float bowls for cleaning and noticed all floats sitting at strange angle, ie 'not' parallel to gasket face. Hmmm.
With vernier calipers measured the highest corner of each at 21mm give or take a gnats eyelash.
If they had been got at by a PO I wouldn't have expected such accuracy, so was this a factory setting?

Engine had run well and idled well with that float level. More hmmmmmmmmm.

Do I re-set to 15.5 or stay with 21 and risk having to pull the carbs again? :cry:
Decided to re-set to 15.5.

Needle-seat sealing test: carbs on bench upside down; no float bowls: hook up a fuel feed: no leaks. Everything dry.
Now - fit float bowls, carbs right side up: float bowls fill and then fuel floods into plenum. Not from all four carbs, just one. Rats. Remove bowl from that one, recheck needle valve sealing etc. Try again. Flooding now from a different carb. Arrggggg. Have now rechecked all a couple of times.

Something really amiss (do-oooh) :)

Am I missing something obvious, or is this one of Honda's little known variations?

All help gratefully appreciated.

:)



WingNutJC
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:12 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia.
Motorcycle: GL1100 Aspencade
Goldwing Streamliner
'06 BMW R1100S

Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby WingNutJC » Mon Dec 02, 2013 6:01 am

OK. Have made a little progress: yet another search led me to:

http://www.randakksblog.com/floats-101/#more-936
(Why can U search until blue in the face and not find something then a wekk later U find it? Grrrr).

This resolved the 21mm vs 15.5mm float height issue: 21mm for the 1000 only!

The floats all 'float' at the same height in a dish of gas. Floats are 'straight'.

Looks like I'll have to set up a clear tube outside the bowl to see true levels. Grrr.

Onwards and upwards. I hope.

:)

.

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RBGERSON
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Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby RBGERSON » Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:02 am

If you set the floats correctly you shouldn't have to check with tubes in the drain holes..it's a test of last resort when things aren't going right and you can't figure out why.

What you should do is bench test..level the carbs on a bench, take the caps off, have a flash light or put paper in each carb and the plenum base..makes it easier to see if gas is flowing where it shouldn't if no gas comes out the jets or leaks from the d-rings into the plenum you should be good to go..see the pic..note the gas source should be 6' above the carbs to give adequate pressure.
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80-GL100-INT
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Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby 80-GL100-INT » Mon Dec 02, 2013 12:14 pm

Make sure you are NOT setting the float by pushing on the spring loaded pin on top of the needle. The needle needs to be "just seated" pin fully extended and float just resting on the pin @ 15.5 mm. I took an old debit card and cut it out just like this > http://randakks.com/collections/honda-g ... ting-gauge to set mine with. They are very touchy, that .5 mm makes a difference.
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Johnyy Smoke
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Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby Johnyy Smoke » Tue Dec 03, 2013 4:14 am

As stated earlier, floats HAVE to be set at 15.5 and they gotta be straight all along the surface of the floats (ie not 15.5 on the toe and 16 on heel end.) Make SURE Floats are not bent ( my carbs were unopened when I rebuilt them and somehow all 4 floats were bent in some small way :?: )
Only a tiny variant on settings will make you want to jump out the window with frustration! :evil:
I assume you have checked needle tips and seats and the o-ring?
Let us know how it goes. Regards, Johnyy

WingNutJC
Posts: 29
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Motorcycle: GL1100 Aspencade
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'06 BMW R1100S

Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby WingNutJC » Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:17 pm

Firstly - thanks to all those who have replied. And yes - I've been taking care to ensure everything has been done as you have all mentioned - but no joy.

Now the plot really thickens. Dang DA Dang dang !!!

I used an external clear tube on one carb bowl to see what was really going on at the 15.5 setting: fuel flowed in and went straight up past the gasket surface and out the carb throat. On all carbs.

OK. Decrease the float height in that carb and see what happens: fuel level lower - as expected. Bit by bit I got to that 21mm number, and guess what? Fuel level is just below the gasket surface. Repeated on other three with same result.

Now before everyone jumps on me :roll: I'm just the messenger. Reporting only what I've measured. Not trying to argue against all U guys or the WSM. Newbies take note: this situation is not the norm. OK?

I don't know the service history, but I CAN tell someone has been in here before me, so who knows what has been done to get things working. The engine was running ok before (at the 21mm level), except for the leaking connecting pipes.

I can't see this being anything but a float buoyancy problem. I've tested the floats and they all float at the same height in a dish of fuel. Grrr. Is it possible the PO used a smaller float, if they exist?

Plan for Now: carbs are going back in with the 21mm float level so I can at least ride.

Plan for Later: replace floats, needles, seats etc with the genuine items.

I'll keep you updated.

Thanks again.

:)

.

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RBGERSON
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Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby RBGERSON » Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:52 am

Before you replace it all try jut replaying the needles and cleaning the seats. The needles are most likely your problem the rubber gets old and doesn't seal well. You can clean/polish the seats with a little very fine steel wool.stick it in and give it a few light twirls or a Q tip with a little rubbing compound on it will do the job too.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

WingNutJC
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:12 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia.
Motorcycle: GL1100 Aspencade
Goldwing Streamliner
'06 BMW R1100S

Re: Float levels: '82 GL1100 Standard.

Postby WingNutJC » Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:13 am

Thanks RB. Did all that. The needle tips felt quite flexible. There are very faint seating rings on each, but nothing remotely like a groove.

Anyway they were back in before your post so I'll see how everything goes. Next time the carbs come out it will be new everything time. :mrgreen:

BUT, just as I was turning over the motor to prime the petrol pump the starter stopped startering. :evil:

Motor and connections were v.warm so I immediately thought of worn brushes.
Oh gee. Only 2 bolts to remove. Oh gee. That's after dropping the exhaust. Oh gee. That after loosening the crash-bar. :twisted:
Anyway - brushes ok. Lots of carbon buildup in end cap. Scrubbed up the commutator. At the other end the planetary gears got a few goops of lithium grease as did the input shaft side.

Bolt back in. Clickety clack. No joy. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

Motor out again to check continuity. All good. Connect directly to battery. Whhhiiiiiiizzzzzzzzzz. All good.
(but now fast becoming a Road Runner moment...)

When re-fitting the s/m I accidentally touched the sprocket and it moved. #*?!!&###
OK. I'll tilt the bike. Around to the off-side and tilting happily. Where's all that oil coming from??? Do-ooooh! All over tools, parts, nuts, washers ... :x :x :x

Used a loop of dental floss around the chain to get sprocket centred and s/m refitted.

OK. Now where was I ? Oh yes. Hit starter button again. Half-hearted click. Eventually get Acme multi-meter (should have done in first place). No voltage on motor terminal. Solenoid had stopped solenoiding. :twisted:

Measure measure fiddle fiddle ... open circuit between terminal posts when solenoid operated.
Grrr. Must be a layer of dirt or oxidation on contacts. More grrrr. Dismantle solenoid. Viola! One side of the 'T' contactor was catching on the bakelite moulding, stopping a full contact. Showed lots of arcing corrosion. Trimmed back the bakelite and all was good.

Re-fitted solenoid, reconnected battery ('brightened' lugs etc, with copper grease).

Hit starter. A bit of popping and farting then Varrrooooom.
Dog headed for hills and next door's baby woke up. :oops: As happens when one's engine is without header pipes. :mrgreen: Eventually coaxed dog back home.

And that, Dear Readers is how to re-fit one's GL carburettors.

Tomorrow: refit exhaust system. Balance carbs. Adjust air screws. Out for a test ride. What could be simpler?

:)

Wyle. E Coyote.


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