83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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jmrunner
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83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)

Postby jmrunner » Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:39 am



Hi,

Definitely not a veteran mechanic here. Let me prove it to you. In an effort to remove the last of the racks the previous owner installed on my GL1100, because I want to get the bike back to naked, I had the back end tore down somewhat. Basically, removed the rear fender, seat, brake light, turn signals, etc. Where I got into trouble was on the top shock mount bolt, left hand side if you're sitting on the bike...

Well, I cross threaded a nut trying to fill a gap with lock washers. Stupid, I know. My question is, is that bolt removable or do I need to re-thread the existing one? Looking at the fiche pictures I can find for shock parts, that bolt isn't an included part. And looking at the same for frame parts, I'm not finding it their either.

If I can remove it and replace it (assuming I can find replacements) I'll be happier. I've barely touched a tap and die set before, and I'm concerned about doing more damage with that.

Any advice on repair or parts much appreciated.



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virgilmobile
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Re: 83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Apr 17, 2014 2:54 pm

To my remembering,the shock stud is welded to the frame.
2 choices,attempt a die first to repair the threads.A cheap kit is available at Harbor Freight.Good enough for a one time use.
If all that fails,there's one thing I've seen done.It was low tech .
I found that one rear shock had a funny nut and washer on it.
It turned out that the threaded stud was cut off,just the threaded part not the whole stud,a hole was drilled all the way through the mount and a bolt was used to keep the shock in place.
I really didn't see any problems with the "fix".
The bolt was a fine thread...maybe a 6 or 10 mm.It left plenty of stud left on the bike.
It was obviously hand drilled but accurate.I was impressed.
I am not gonna tell you who did this either. :D

jmrunner
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Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Standard

Re: 83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)

Postby jmrunner » Thu Apr 17, 2014 3:07 pm

I'd like to offer free beer to anyone willing to swing by my place and lend a hand. hehe

Your info all fits with what I'm finding elsewhere. Which isn't very exciting. I've never used a tap and die kit, though at this point, I guess I don't have anything to lose by trying. It sounds like I'm going to be taking the second approach and drilling out that stud unless I get really lucky with cleaning up those threads. I've got a Harbor Freight I can swing by on the way home, I guess I'll be making a stop. If it comes to it, I hope I'll be impressed as well. hehe

I'm amazed these studs are non-replaceable. I understand strength is key when it comes to attaching suspension to the frame, but most bolts don't last forever. The other reason I was so convinced they would be removable is that this is a standard GL1100, not an Aspencade or Interstate. A previous owner had mounted racks and bags and trunk. When I removed all of that, those studs were longer than I needed by roughly half an inch. And the nuts on the studs didn't want to tighten down.

In hindsight it occurs to me that maybe the racks had damaged the threads. Originally, I thought either the nuts were the wrong thread pitch, or else the studs were designed to accept Acorn nuts. I'm pretty new to all of this.

Thanks for your reply!

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virgilmobile
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Re: 83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Apr 17, 2014 3:10 pm

If you look at the design,the nuts purpose in life is to keep the shock from slipping off the stud.Theres not a lot of torque there

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WingAdmin
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Re: 83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:43 am

Right. The stud is there to absorb movement up and down of the back end. The nut is just there to keep the shock from migrating off of the stud.

Using the die to repair the threads is a bit more difficult than just cutting new threads on a virgin rod. You need to make sure, beyond any doubt, that (a) the die is the correct size and thread pitch for the stud, and (b) that the die is threaded perfectly onto what remains of the old threads. Cross thread the die, or use the wrong die, and it will massacre what is left of those old threads leaving you with no threads.

Also, when threading the die on, keep in mind it is a cutting tool. It will cut small bits of metal away - basically everything that is not thread. These little bits of metal will collect up inside of it and cause it to mess up existing threads. So every turn, back it up half a turn to clear out the bits of cutting, then advance it again. You should also use some cutting fluid - which is basically a thin oil - to lubricate things before you start. In a pinch, oil or even WD-40 will do. You want the die to slide smoothly on the stud.

jmrunner
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Re: 83 GL1100 Top Shock Mount Bolt (stud?)

Postby jmrunner » Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:20 am

Having completed the job, I can appreciate that all of this is great advice WingAdmin. :D

I had already determined that the last thing I wanted to do was rethread the stud, since I'd never used a tap and die set before. However, once it was apparent that the only way I was going to solve this without one, was to drill out that stud and pass a bolt through it, I went and bought a tap and die set.

Using the gauges in the set, I was certain that the thread was 10 x 1.25. "This can't be that hard, right?" Well, I applied a little 3 in 1 oil and even with all of the racks, seat and covers off the bike, I couldn't get the t-handle wrench through more than 1/3rd of a rotation. So I removed the shock. Still less than half a rotation on the die wrench. This was Sunday afternoon, and I'm at work Tuesday morning, so I don't remember what exactly was in the way, but I ended up using a crescent wrench on the die and using the thumb on my free hand to keep that die absolutely seated the best I could. I'm sure that is a bad idea, and I'm not suggesting it to anyone else, but ...I wouldn't have taken that route if I could have removed anything else or arranged a better approach. And I still had the option to drill out that stud and pass a bolt through it.

To the extent that it matters, I was using a Chinese made Craftsman tap and I die set for $40 from Sears. I'd picked up a different one at Harbor Freight, but it didn't have a 10 X 1.25 mm. Probably because the top of the stud was stripped so thoroughly, I was able to get a good seat on the stud with the die and it pulled the die into place as I advanced it. I was able to get clean new thread over the stripped portion of the stud that lead into the remaining good threads. Viola! Switch to the other side of the bike and repeat. I ran oil through the die pretty continually and backed up occasionally thinking it would allow more oil to stay on the stud and in the threads of the die. So I inadvertently discovered what you pointed out about cleaning the shavings out of the die. I got lucky, that could have caused real problems.

My bike is the Gl1100, the standard model. The previous owner had outfitted it with racks and bags he picked up off ebay. In the process I think he replaced what I would assume would have been acorn nuts on the studs with nuts of the wrong pitch.

For general information, I found posts elsewhere emphatically stating that the thread pitch on that stud is sometimes 10 X 1.0, even though the more common is 10 X 1.25.




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