wiring help on headlight


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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johngagen
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wiring help on headlight

Postby johngagen » Thu May 01, 2014 3:22 pm



Ok..so I was messing around with speedometer cause it was acting up. twisting it toward me so i could spray some graphite in the back which didnt help.
Later noticed my headlight wasn't on. Can't be a coincidence. After much consideration tore the whole fairing off bike, have everything laid out in front of me(wiring harness wise) bulbs back in to test. and access to every wire imaginable.
checked fuse of course,tested bulb etc... so here the rub. I don't seem to have power coming to the little white connector that attaches to the headkight bulb itself. I have green, white and blue wires going into connecter and a second green hanging of the first green that does'nt seem to attach to anything. Then there is also a brown wire with a connector hanging there that doesn't go anywhere either.
The brown is hot,getting juice,hooked up to bulb with test lead, light comes on, but this was not attached anyway i could see when headlight came out(but of course it wasn't working then) If I use power from brown wire I can get both blue side and white side of bulb to light,bright and dim but can't swith between them I thought I knocked ground loose but actually lost hot to blue or white wire i think. all the other lights are working. turn signals flashers horn etc.. anyone have any insights.



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virgilmobile
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby virgilmobile » Thu May 01, 2014 4:17 pm

Well...the brown wire is a "park" circuit...feeding anything from park lamps to marker lamps...
The 2 wires that feed the headlight...both come from the hi/lo switch on the left cluster....
the switch gets it's power from the start button...
If the bike cranks,the start button has power...now you test the wire that leaves it and goes to the hi/lo switch...It's a black/white wire...you should see it on both sides of the bike coming out of the switch cluster....It MUST have 12 volts on it with the key on...If it's dead,suspect a contaminated start switch....

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johngagen
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby johngagen » Thu May 01, 2014 8:30 pm

thanks for your reply..i have power coming to hi/low switch on a blue/white wire.

Im gonna have to pick this up later.

one of the things i find so confusing about even the colored wiring diagrams is that Im not confident about rules such as:

dark green is always ground,light blue is hot etc... the colors seem to be used differently.

and it seems sometimes like blue turns into a different color when it comes out the other end sometimes. maybe its been messed with to much.

like one turn signal uses orange...and what should be blue white coming out of it is plain white....

then somehow I blew my main fuse(30 amp)by batt. took me a while to figur that out. my fault I cut wires without disconnecting battery terminal

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virgilmobile
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby virgilmobile » Thu May 01, 2014 9:30 pm

Age can fade the color coding of exposed wiring.
When in question,pull the wire outside of the bundle and look further down tre wire.

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johngagen
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby johngagen » Wed May 07, 2014 11:41 am

Finally figured out my hi/lo switch was the culprit. Thanks virgil for pointing me in the right direction. Thanks to the posting of the honda color code for wiring cheat sheet under the forum section,refence materials.

I had hot to the blu/wht wire..disconnected all wires from swith..hooked blu/wht to just white had my headlight. I decided for the time being to
attach all three wires and eliminate the switch..so i have light and can ride again. I have to decide how to solve switching issues. suppose I could go to swith in fairing on left side somewhere easy to reach. or order old guy off ebay. I can't see whats wrong with my rocker switch on handle bar.seems like should work but no energy crossing over ??

I'm getting good at this wiring stuff (smile)

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virgilmobile
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby virgilmobile » Wed May 07, 2014 12:07 pm

Age....The switch contacts are spring loaded....Operating the switch(when new) actually will clean the contacts as they 'wipe' across.
Dirt,moisture,and a weak spring usually lend to corrosion and arcing/burning the contacts/shorting bar...
I've filed smooth the contact area to expose the copper connection,resurfaced the shorting bar with some 1000 grit paper,stretched the spring just a touch and reassembled....I do use a bit of grease to hold the spring and bar in place for assembly...not a lubricant...The entire assembly is plastic dry assembled...no grease/wd40 or anything is used...

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virgilmobile
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby virgilmobile » Wed May 07, 2014 12:13 pm

By the way,attaching all 3 wires together will light both the high and low beam....Not ideal....Pick one or the other till you can fix the switch problem...Either your switch or a add on switch....Which would be a spdt....single pole double throw...Identified by it's 3 connections and 2 position handle...each position says 'ON'.
It must be able to carry at least 10 amp on the contacts....A micro switch would burn up...
A micro switch could be used if wired to operate a relay to operate the headlights....

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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby WingAdmin » Wed May 07, 2014 2:34 pm

virgilmobile wrote:By the way,attaching all 3 wires together will light both the high and low beam....Not ideal....Pick one or the other till you can fix the switch problem...Either your switch or a add on switch....Which would be a spdt....single pole double throw...Identified by it's 3 connections and 2 position handle...each position says 'ON'.
It must be able to carry at least 10 amp on the contacts....A micro switch would burn up...
A micro switch could be used if wired to operate a relay to operate the headlights....


I was just about to say the same thing - hooking them all together will draw more current than the wiring is designed to do, and with both filaments going at the same time inside the bulb, you can expect the bulb to not last too long, and also potentially create enough heat to melt something.

How I fixed this on my GL1100 (I had the exact same problem) was to put a 30 amp relay in place. When the relay was de-energized, it connected power to the low beam filament. The output of the high beam switch was connected to the coil of the relay, the output of the low beam switch was connected to nothing. When high beams were selected, it would energize the relay, and the relay would send the power to the high beam filament.

If the switch got dirty and loose again, I would never lose my headlight, at worst I would lose the ability to use my high beam.

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johngagen
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby johngagen » Wed May 07, 2014 3:29 pm

Thanks again for the input,very helpful.

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johngagen
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby johngagen » Wed May 07, 2014 3:39 pm

I have a switch that has a red rocker look to it that lights up. It was used for running lights that I don't use.

on the side of it it has a label which says the left post is ground,the middle says accessories,and the right post says power.

If I ground the left,hook the white to the accessorie,and the blu to the right post, do you think that would switch me between hi and low,one always being on of course. It doesn't have any amp rating on it,but I'm willing to gamble it would probably work.

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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby WingAdmin » Thu May 08, 2014 9:40 am

johngagen wrote:I have a switch that has a red rocker look to it that lights up. It was used for running lights that I don't use.

on the side of it it has a label which says the left post is ground,the middle says accessories,and the right post says power.

If I ground the left,hook the white to the accessorie,and the blu to the right post, do you think that would switch me between hi and low,one always being on of course. It doesn't have any amp rating on it,but I'm willing to gamble it would probably work.


That's a simple on/off switch. You put +12v on the "power" lead, and it switches the power on and off to the "Accessory" lead. The ground lead is required for the switch to light up its internal light. It will not work for switching between high and low.

The switch you have is a SPST (single pole, single throw). What you need is a SPDT (single pole, double throw), where it has a "common" that is switched back and forth between two different terminals. The +12v would be fed into the common, and each of the two different terminals would then go to the high and low beam circuits.

Incidentally, the headlight will draw at least 4.6 amps, so your switch should be rated for around double that - a 10 amp switch would work well.

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johngagen
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby johngagen » Thu May 15, 2014 6:44 am

After all the effort it turned out the hi/lo switch went out on me.

I put in a spdt swith in the fairing as suggested by virgil and that will work fine. Thanks for all your suggestions.

I learn a lot when I go at it myself,with your help of course !

Fat Jack
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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby Fat Jack » Thu Sep 03, 2015 1:50 pm

Similar issue with my 1982 GL1100, only it's my starter button that was not energizing the dimmer switch. Took it apart, cleaned it up and can't reassemble the switch. Can't determine how to get the tiny sliders to stay together. Would sure like to know how it's done.

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virgilmobile
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83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Sep 03, 2015 2:14 pm

If your having problems keeping the brass shorting bar in place during assembly...grab your can of axle grease/cup grease/bearing grease/grease gun....Dab a bit on the spring and where it contacts the bar.
It acts like glue.Dont slobber it,just a dab will du it.
Position the parts and set the contact plate level then push together and secure.

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Re: wiring help on headlight

Postby Fat Jack » Thu Sep 03, 2015 2:37 pm

Thanks virgilmobile. I found this youtube video of a guy who actually took it apart and reassembled it. Very well done video. I think I can do it now. Couldn't determine where the fibre part went.
Here's a link to the video:





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