Overheating


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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heholdem
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:04 pm
Location: Midway, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 Interstate

Overheating

Postby heholdem » Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:01 am



Hi all
So I am on the home stretch back to Arkansas and have had a good trip so far other than this morning. Got on the road this morning was a couple of miles down the highway checked temp gauge and it is almost in the red. Bike has been running well the whole trip now this morning this happens. A couple of things: fork seals blew out sometime yesterday so there is fluid all over the fairing, could this be causing the overheat issue or am I looking at a thermostat or water pump issue?
Currently sitting in Hardee's in Carthage Illinois deciding what to do.



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WingAdmin
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Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Overheating

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:14 am

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. The fork oil will not have an effect on the cooling capacity. First thing to do (when the engine is cool) is to check your coolant reserve. Make sure there is some in there!

Once the engine is cool, you can open the radiator cap, and start the engine. Make sure you see coolant flowing past, and that the level changes when you rev the engine up. This will tell you that the pump is operating, and circulating coolant properly.

You're running on the highway, which will provide more than enough airflow to keep things cool, so your fan is not going to be the cause of the problem. If all the above checks out OK, the next thing to check is the thermostat.

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1fastgl1100
Posts: 131
Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:33 pm
Location: Ocala, Florida
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A and 1982 GL1100A Modified

Re: Overheating

Postby 1fastgl1100 » Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:13 pm

Water is key... If there is no water in the radiator the engine wont cool... OK so there is water. is it flowing, or is the pump broken or the thermostat stuck? (see admins advise) if you replace the thermostat buy one of the safestat's as these break open so you dont overheat.

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heholdem
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:04 pm
Location: Midway, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby heholdem » Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:21 am

So I made the trip from Carthage IL to Keokuk IA where the closest Honda shop was, and the closest O'Reilly's (I work for O'Reilly's). As it turns out the Honda shop was closed on Mondays, so I went over to O'Reilly's and talked to the guys there. As it turns out, one of the guys is good friends with the manager of the Honda shop. He gave him a call, and after a bit he called back and said they had neither a thermostat nor a water pump in stock, but gave us a number to cross reference in the O'Reilly computer, did that and came back with a good number for a thermostat they had in stock. So over the next couple of hours I proceeded to change out the thermostat, sure was glad I decided to bring my tools!. Once done, took it for a test drive and all was well. Only thing I did notice, and I don't know if it because of the southern heat, but my temp is running a bit higher than normal. I might look in to putting a different temp thermostat in in the future.
I did do the water pump check that WingAdmin told me about before the swap out, and it checked out fine. Also talked to one of the Goldwing techs at TNT Motorsports in Quincy IL and he advised that there is a weep hole on these water pumps as well, now whether that is true or not I don't know, but is good to know anyway.
Thanks for the help
Jake
Rubber Side Down


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WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Overheating

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:37 pm

heholdem wrote:Also talked to one of the Goldwing techs at TNT Motorsports in Quincy IL and he advised that there is a weep hole on these water pumps as well, now whether that is true or not I don't know, but is good to know anyway.


There sure is, you can read more about it here: How to remove and replace your water pump

Image

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mmode9
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: PNW, USA
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100I
1985 GL1200 Aspencade

Re: Overheating

Postby mmode9 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:53 pm

What did you find as the cause? I have a similar issue but can't find the answer. Resorted to running with no stat and jumpered the fan switch to keep it cool for now.

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heholdem
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:04 pm
Location: Midway, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby heholdem » Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:28 am

It was the thermostat causing the overheat issue. The new one is a 180 degree fail safe type, and yet the temp is still running a tad on the high side. Going to do a check for air bubbles in the system later on this week and see if that helps. I also have the fan wired to a toggle switch and it helps when I come to a red light or am driving in city traffic. And it has been hot here since I got back, today is going to be 97, so that may be part of the issue as well.

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HawkeyeGL1200
Posts: 918
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:53 am
Location: Courtland, Va.
Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200 Interstate
1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby HawkeyeGL1200 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:39 am

Keep in mind that the cooling system is designed to work under pressure. The radiator cap, if bad, can also contribute to overheating. If the cap hasn't been replaced in 30-odd years, it too can be a contributing cause to overheating by allowing hot fluid to overflow the supplemental tank instead of holding the coolant in the system under "normal" pressure.

I believe there is a replacement cap for GL1100 available at most auto parts stores, without having to search for an OEM cap. I'll see if I have the replacement number written down.

If you take yours off again, take it to the auto parts store and try one of these if interested:
CarQuest Part 33030
Stant 10229
Stant 11229
I am wrong as often as I am right concerning what is wrong with someone else' motorcycle without having seen the machine in person. Guessing with limited information, as to the source of the trouble, is sketchy at best.

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heholdem
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:04 pm
Location: Midway, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby heholdem » Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:41 am

I'm at work today and crossed those numbers over to a Murray 7013 pulled it off the shelf and it's a match. I'll take one home and see if it helps with the slightly higher run temp.

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HawkeyeGL1200
Posts: 918
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:53 am
Location: Courtland, Va.
Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200 Interstate
1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby HawkeyeGL1200 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:24 pm

It may not make any difference at all.

I don't know what the outside of your radiator looks like, but it might be helpful to hose it off with some mild detergent too. Corrosion on the outside of cooling fins over time can decrease the efficiency of the radiator. Many small things combined can add up to a system that doesn't work as well as it should.

Another thought crossed my mind as I was reading your original post over again. Without knowing if you actually lost coolant initially, it is possible that the gauge can be reading "high" ... I know a few guys have access to those infrared temperature "guns" that you can get a real reading off a surface to see what the temperature is. If it is possible to try one (you may already own one for all I know) to see what your engine temperature actually is, it might be a good thing.

If I recall correctly, the fan is supposed to turn on at around 205-210 degrees and shut off at 195 or so. I can look it up. Knowing the actual temperature can be an eye opener at times when troubleshooting cooling system troubles.
I am wrong as often as I am right concerning what is wrong with someone else' motorcycle without having seen the machine in person. Guessing with limited information, as to the source of the trouble, is sketchy at best.

f1xrupr
Posts: 396
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 6:13 am
Location: Triplet Va
Motorcycle: 1980 gl 1100 Std. Vetter

Re: Overheating

Postby f1xrupr » Fri Aug 01, 2014 4:00 pm

It sounds like you might have found your over heating problem, but I have something to share about over heating that I want to inject in wingland.
If your bike is over heating, and you can't find the problem, try this...it worked for me.
Remove seat and fause tank. Drain coolant. Find a fitting or nozzle that will allow you to fill your co0ling system from the bottom (drain plug). While filling, park bike with the front a little higher than the rear, and have an assistant lean the bike slightly side to side (gets the air out). Put the drain plug in fast, top off radiator, and cap. Drive the bike "vary easy"! See how far you can go driving vary easy! After driving easy for 20 or so miles, get close to home and "nail it", and see don't the temp rise.
The head gaskets can be bad, and only leak at extreme pressures, and not evident any other way. That forces air (gasses) into the cooling system, and it cannot function. The Good Lord taught me that.also remember, some head gaskets need re-torquing! Resurfacing is almost a must
My exercise bike is a goldwing.

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heholdem
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:04 pm
Location: Midway, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby heholdem » Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:48 pm

So here is what I know now, and the story behind it. A Murray 7013 radiator cap from O'Reilly's is not an exact match, and an OEM cap, as far as I have seen on the web, runs about 35 bucks USD. Rode for a few days in the AR heat, although it has been a cooler summer, was still having temp gauge run higher than what should be normal (around the 1\2 to 3\4 mark) and did not appear to be loosing much if any coolant. So took off the seat and took off the false tank to get better access to the rad cap. Took off the rad cap and noticed I was very low on coolant. Hmmm... filled the rad to just below the top, started the bike and let it warm up, hammered the throttle a couple of times to make sure the water pump was working, it sucked the coolant down and I could see it flowing, so, check, water pump is good. As per forum advice, let it get hot and watched for air bubbles coming up through the radiator neck for possible head gasket leak, no air bubbles, hmmm... coolant started to expand and started to overflow, shut the bike down, let her cool down, and put the new 7013 cap on. Started it back up and after the coolant got hot and started to expand it was gushing out around the new rad cap, ok, new rad cap not a good fit, shut her down, let her cool, refill with coolant, put on old cap, start her up, wait and watch. She started to get hot and I noticed there were a few drips coming from the overflow nipple\hose connection area, then it started leaking around the old cap, not nearly as bad as with the new "exact fit" cap but still leaking. So, shut her down and let her cool. Also keep in mind that I have the fan on a toggle switch so when she started to get hot I could up the rpm's a bit, kick the fan on, and the temp would drop in a hurry. So, perplexed, got to looking at the whole system and noticed that through all of this, the level in the reservoir tank never changed. So, got to wondering.... pulled the hose off of the overflow nipple and off of the down tube in to the overflow tank. Blew through the in the tank tube and bubble bubble ok that's good, blew through the hose to the overflow nipple and pfffffft pop!! Oh what the hell was that? Blew through it again and whhhhhhh clean. Well ain't that a kick in the pants. Reattached the hose, refilled the rad, replaced the old cap, started, heated her up and no drip and no leakage around the cap or rad neck, and temp is holding normal!! I don't know what it was or where it came from, but something had got itself stuck in that overflow tube. Since then no over heat issue, no running hot or warm issue, she has been running perfectly fine. Just on a whim, did boil the old thermostat just to make sure that it was the original problem and yes, it never did open up. So with all that said and done, I am left wondering if there are more large chunks of who knows what in the cooling system, going to do a complete flush and fill shortly just to make sure, and one of these days do a micrometer measure on the old cap vs the new 7013 Murray cap to see how much of a difference there is. Will still probably get a new cap, but going to check a few other parts stores to see if i can find a good match, otherwise it will be the interweb for an OEM replacement.
Thus ends my overheat issue, if I find a relevant, suitable, other than internet replacement radiator cap, I'll let ya'll know until then....

Rubber side down ya'll

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HawkeyeGL1200
Posts: 918
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:53 am
Location: Courtland, Va.
Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200 Interstate
1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Overheating

Postby HawkeyeGL1200 » Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:31 pm

It is good to read that you have figured out the problem. One of the other members had an overheating problem with an 1100, and he discovered the air deflectors that mount to the sides of the radiator on the 1100's were missing from his bike. His overheating problem was reported to be corrected by the addition of the "wings" on the radiator.

I had not considered blockage in the overflow tube as a cause in your case. It is another variable to consider in all water cooled bikes, I suppose... and I'll try to keep it in mind next time someone posts a cooling system problem.

Happy Trails!

Hawk


I am wrong as often as I am right concerning what is wrong with someone else' motorcycle without having seen the machine in person. Guessing with limited information, as to the source of the trouble, is sketchy at best.


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