Rear Brake Siezing


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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gexxie
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:47 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate. (Imported to UK from USA)

Rear Brake Siezing

Postby gexxie » Mon Jul 21, 2014 4:00 am



1982 GL1100 Interstate. Imported to the UK.

I have been trying to fix an intermittent problem for 10 months now.
Basically on a ride, the rear brake siezes, heats up and has even caught fire.

First thing was pads, repaired the master cylinder, replaces the seals on the two pistons, new pads.
Around the same time he original exhaust was replaced for a Motad Stainless Steel version.

Problem persisted. I could manage 30 miles then it siezed, once I did 4 miles without touching the rear brake and it siezed.

I have this weekend replaced. New Pistons and seals. New braided hose between the caliper and master cylinder. Silicone greased everything that moves. The system took a long time to bleed through, but then everything was finally ready. On the centre stand with the bike in 1st I tested the operation of the brake and it seemed fine. It didn't lock or sieze, then took it on a road test with 'normal' braking as required and it managed 14 miles before siezing again.

What am I missing anyone? Thanks in anticipation.



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Mh434
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Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby Mh434 » Mon Jul 21, 2014 5:04 am

This might be it - Too much grease on the slider pins can cause an air lock behind them. As the bike warms up, the air expands, forcing the pins out & applying the brake, which gets hotter, causing the air to expand even more, applying the brake even more, and so on.

That happened to me when I had a GL1100 Interstate. After just a few minutes of riding, without even touching the brakes, the rear brake would heat up to the point that it was glowing (and seizing solid). Drove me nuts for a while. Finally fixed it by removing all the brake grease from the slider pin passages, leaving only a faint trace on the pins themselves.

Something to ponder, at least...

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dingdong
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Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby dingdong » Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:58 am

I know you said that you repaired the master cylinder but the most common cause of brakes seizing is the fluid return hole in the master being clogged. Did you clean it with the repair? As far as riding without touching the brakes... all it takes is once for this to occur.
Tom

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virgilmobile
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Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:04 am

Almost every time I've heard about this,it's been the pressure bleeder hole plugged in the master cylinder.
However...is it possible that the piston on the master cylinder is not returning to its "rest" position?
Could the pedal link be adjusted too tight,keeping the piston pushed in a few MM. Not allowing the bleeder hole to be exposed to the resavoyer.?
Kinda like riding the brakes...
If you can get it to start to bind,use your wrench and crack the bleeder on the slave.If it releases the brakes,you've found the problem.

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themainviking
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Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby themainviking » Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:07 am

+2 on dingdongs reply. The return hole in the master cylinder. It has gotten me a couple of times, till I took to just replacing the master cylinders when I had the problem start. Happens pretty much every time I purchase a previously owned motorcycle. Then with the heat of the pads dragging on the rotor (the way it is supposed to) the brake fluid heats up and expands and so on. Result, heavily dragging or seized brake. Almost always the front brake with the bikes I work on.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey

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gexxie
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:47 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate. (Imported to UK from USA)

Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby gexxie » Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:29 am

Thanks everyone for getting back to me... I think I am back in the master cylinder area, I just hope that the one 'lite' sieze after fitting new pistons and seals will not have damaged them. I stopped before it locked up completely. Cheers - Gexxie

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HawkeyeGL1200
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1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby HawkeyeGL1200 » Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:53 am

virgilmobile wrote:Almost every time I've heard about this,it's been the pressure bleeder hole plugged in the master cylinder.
However...is it possible that the piston on the master cylinder is not returning to its "rest" position?
Could the pedal link be adjusted too tight,keeping the piston pushed in a few MM. Not allowing the bleeder hole to be exposed to the resavoyer.?
Kinda like riding the brakes...
If you can get it to start to bind,use your wrench and crack the bleeder on the slave.If it releases the brakes,you've found the problem.


I agree with all the replies. This one is the most complete an explanation I think you could ask for.
I am wrong as often as I am right concerning what is wrong with someone else' motorcycle without having seen the machine in person. Guessing with limited information, as to the source of the trouble, is sketchy at best.

gexxie
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:47 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate. (Imported to UK from USA)

Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby gexxie » Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:39 am

Hi Again... so here is my update.
I took the Master Cylinder apart myself this time (I mentioned that a friend had done this a few months back) and fitted another new repair kit - (the old/new one looked fine too). I checked the return hole and it was free of dirt etc as was the cylinder chamber and all routes blew through fine. So no problem I could see. I re-assembled, I had an issue bleeding the brakes, but another forum here showed me the way with bleeding the banjo joints first (it worked a treat). So on the stand the brake was fine, and I would say the advice about the pedal adjustment was also considered so the Master Cylinder piston could not have been pulled back any further (no 'riding the brake'). The caliper also got removed and re-greased with the correct lube etc. Don't forget I also have a new braided hose too. I managed 21 miles before it seized again. For 18 of those miles I didn't touch the brake at all. What am I missing? The only things that are not new are... pads themselves - only half worn - whole caliper body - the master cylinder body and the reservoir and hose. On the master cylinder the plastic stud that the reservoir hose goes into was not taken off - is there anything in that area I should worry about? Thanks again for your support and advice.... cheers. Gerry

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WingAdmin
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Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Aug 19, 2014 12:35 pm

Take a wrench and a rag with you. Go out riding until it seizes. While it is seized, loosen the banjo bolt at the caliper, see if the brake releases. If it does (and fluid will come out if this is the case), you know the problem is still with your master cylinder. If it does not, then the problem is with your caliper.

gexxie
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:47 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate. (Imported to UK from USA)

Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby gexxie » Sun Aug 31, 2014 2:03 pm

Hi, and thanks again for all the advice. So yesterday I prepared to follow the last advice, but before I went out (having taken the left panier / saddlebag off ready to bleed the caliper if it seized) I put in to two new brake pads, remember the ones I had were only half worn. I did 51 miles with full braking and the caliper didn't even get hot. Warm, but not hot. This is the furthest I've managed for a long time. I think its fixed... but why. So my idea is that with new pads then the pistons don't have to travel so far, the rods that locate the pads dont have the pads travel so much... so everything is just a bit tighter if that makes sense? Does it to you?
It will be two weeks before I get to take the bike out again... if I can do 100 miles I will consider it properly fixed. Fingers crossed.
Thanks again everyone.
Gerry

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 17050
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2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Rear Brake Siezing

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Sep 02, 2014 3:35 pm

I would carry a wrench along, just in case - so if it does bind up, you can loosen a brake bleeder to unbind them and get you home.




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