Neutral switch


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Chitreano
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Motorcycle: 1982i, 1985 LTD, 2010

Neutral switch

Postby Chitreano » Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:35 pm



I am in the prosess of the 82 gl11i resto. I have inspected the water pump and planned to do the neutral safety switch clean up trick that I have read about. What I found is that the switch is a sealed unit, unlike the ones in forum pics that can be broken down. Is there another unit that is a bit different? Also, the water pump has a metal asp which I take to mean that it is aftermarket. There is no play whatsoever in it, but it has been sitting for 6 years, with antifreeze in it. Oil had gas in it, but I found no sign of glitter in the oil, nor in the base of the water pump housing. I assume the carb floats stuck & allowed gas to flow bypass at some point during the storage. Found a guy to weld the rusted center stand mounting tube. I am fairly capable mechanically and this is a first on a Goldwing, and very enjoyable.



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Wilcoy02
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Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16

1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15


98 valkyrie sold 8/16

Re: Neutral switch

Postby Wilcoy02 » Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:15 pm

It seems you are asking about 2 different things.

Neutral switch is not the one we clean by taking it apart as I think you are referring to.
I believe you are referring to the Thermostat switch located in the front of the engine with a cap and some wires. Then end you clean is in the water/antifreeze. That switch that you can open up the one end and clean it good.

Metal water pump means it has been changed out already. You should be good to go with the one you have.

If the center stand is still off you might consider putting in a grease zerk on it. That way every year you can grease it and push some of the dirt and grunge out of the stand.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Neutral switch

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:50 am

Honda switched away from the Bakelite impeller water pumps to aluminum impellers. If your pump looks like this, it's already been changed at least once:

Image

The neutral switch is located inside the cover, I suspect as mentioned above that you're talking about a different switch.

Image

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dingdong
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Re: Neutral switch

Postby dingdong » Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:51 am

Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Neutral switch

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:03 am

dingdong wrote:Have you seen this??

http://www.wingovations.com/repairing-t ... 4579471114

Tom


That's showing the neutral switch used in 1980 and 1981 GL1100's (and I believe GL1000's, although I'd have to look that up). The Wingovations link above says that this earlier switch was used in early 1982's as well - which is a possibility, as Honda's model year changes were anything but set in stone. When switching model years, if they had some of the the previous year's engine block production still left over, they'd go ahead and stick it into the new model year, confounding mechanics who attempted to go by the service and parts manuals. :)

Chitreano
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Motorcycle: 1982i, 1985 LTD, 2010

Re: Neutral switch

Postby Chitreano » Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:36 am

Bingo, the earlier model switch is my confusion. Mine is identical to the one in the photo. I have it out and sprayed contact cleaner in it and lubed it. Did a bench test to see if it had continuity, which as I turn the pin on the switch at one point I would get a reading. Logic tells me that would be the neutral position which would actuate the neutral light etc. Is my logic reasonable?

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WingAdmin
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1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Neutral switch

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:14 am

Chitreano wrote:Bingo, the earlier model switch is my confusion. Mine is identical to the one in the photo. I have it out and sprayed contact cleaner in it and lubed it. Did a bench test to see if it had continuity, which as I turn the pin on the switch at one point I would get a reading. Logic tells me that would be the neutral position which would actuate the neutral light etc. Is my logic reasonable?


Correct. When you rotate the switch, it will give you continuity between the wire and the front cover when it is in the neutral position. Make sure this is the position it is in (and that the bike is in neutral!) when you reinstall it.




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