removing the motor from my GL1100


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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roadwanderer2
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removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:38 am



ok, I have everything disconnected from the motor except for the driveshaft "C" clip and the engine hanger bolts. I pulled back the driveshaft boot, but I can't see the clip. does anyone have an enlarged photo of what this clip looks like and where its located?

stuart.



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spiralout
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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby spiralout » Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:25 pm

Sorry, I don't have any pics but It's there. I had to shine a flashlight up in there to be able to see it. Try spinning the wheel as you're looking in case the open end is facing the left side of the bike instead of the side you're on. A good set of right angle snap ring pliers are must for that job. And another snap ring because chances are you're going to mangle the old one getting it off!

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:13 am

'mornin spiral,

thanks for the info. i have a LED flashlight i can use, but i'll have to go out and purchase a snap ring pliers. the ones i have are no good for this.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby spiralout » Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:18 pm

Best pic I could get. I couldn't get a good angle up in there.


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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Tue Apr 21, 2015 4:17 pm

hey spiral, i got the snap ring off and the motor is down and on my work bench. i put the new timing belts on, took the clutch cover off and inspected the clutch plates, and the ones that are already on my bike are in better shape then the ones i bought, so im leaving mine on it and just adjusting the clutch from the cable. haven't started on the stator yet. going to do that tomorrow. I've done enough for one day. I've been working on this bike most of the day and im exhausted.

the old belts had so much play in them its a wonder they didn't snap before now. question, if i cant find the arrows on the pulleys, how can i line them up with the marks on the engine casing so i install the belts correctly. the belt tensioners and springs are still in good shape, not going to replace anything there. i'll post more about this when im ready to button everything up and put the motor back onto the frame.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Wed Apr 22, 2015 6:58 am

'mornin guys.

ok, im ready to put the clutch cover and the rear engine cover back onto the motor. for the stator, i had to purchase a spring loaded punch to loosen the 3 screws that hold the stator in the casing. they were so tight i couldn't turn them out. i guess they've been in there for a long time. the stator looked burnt as in a dark brown color.

im at a point where im also having a problem with the timing belts. the cam pulleys that are on my motor have no arrows on them, just the word "up" on both pulleys and "dots" on them in 2 different places and the letter "R" on the right pulley.

now my question is this.......can anyone tell me what the torque specs are for the rear cover and clutch cover? i cant find them anywhere, not even in my repair manual, and how do i align the pulleys up to put the belts on correctly? below are pics of my left and right cam pulleys.

one more thing....can anyone tell me what the correct part number is for the shifter shaft seal for an 83 GL1100A?


stuart.
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spiralout
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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby spiralout » Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:48 am

roadwanderer2 wrote:now my question is this.......can anyone tell me what the torque specs are for the rear cover and clutch cover? i cant find them anywhere, not even in my repair manual

I couldn't find the torque in my manual either, but according to octane's clutch write up, the 8 bolts for the rear cover are torqued to 87-121 inch pounds.

Was your engine at TDC before you removed the old belts? Easiest way to do it them, imo, is make sure you're at TDC, mark the crank pulley and engine case so you have a reference that it hasn't moved while your working on it, and lock the pulleys down either using a method like littlebeaver's with the clamps or using a wrench on the pulley bolt zip tied to the frame before you remove the old belts. That way you can tell which pulley marks are lined up with the case marks, too and nothing moves on you.

Edit: your pics and my eyes are too blurry for me to make out the pulley marks :lol:

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:02 am

hey spiral, thanks for the info on the bolt torques. i screwed up when i took the old belts off, i never checked to see if it was in fact at TDC, but i do have the timing mark set via the timing alignment marks inside the motor cover where the T1 is perfectly aligned to the block. the right side pulley moved,(clockwise) a little and i think its one tooth off of where it should be. im going to realign the marks by checking the possession of the number one piston to make sure its all the way up and loosen the right side belt to realign the pulley to the marks that are on it to where its marked on the engine casing according to what my manual does show.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:52 am

'mornin guys.

hey spiral, those torque specs cant be right, i tried torqueing the rear cover bolts to 87lbs, and one bolt snapped. thinking it was a fluke, i tried it again with another bolt and that one also snapped. there's no way those back cover bolts are 87-121lbs. so now i have 2 bolts that are broken off, one i was able to get a grip on with my fingertips and remove it from the engine casing, the other one is going to give me a problem getting to because its one of the very long clutch cover bolts. there's got to be someone in here that knows exactly what the rear engine cover and clutch cover bolt torque specs are, if not, i'll have to call Honda motorcycle corp in California and ask them. in the mean time, i have ordered a new shifter shaft seal and more cover and clutch bolts off of eBay and i have to wait for them to get here in another few days to week.

there is a section in the repair manual that gives torque specs, but it goes by bolt size, not part by part which is very little help.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:12 am

roadwanderer2 wrote:'mornin guys.

hey spiral, those torque specs cant be right, i tried torqueing the rear cover bolts to 87lbs, and one bolt snapped. thinking it was a fluke, i tried it again with another bolt and that one also snapped. there's no way those back cover bolts are 87-121lbs. so now i have 2 bolts that are broken off, one i was able to get a grip on with my fingertips and remove it from the engine casing, the other one is going to give me a problem getting to because its one of the very long clutch cover bolts. there's got to be someone in here that knows exactly what the rear engine cover and clutch cover bolt torque specs are, if not, i'll have to call Honda motorcycle corp in California and ask them. in the mean time, i have ordered a new shifter shaft seal and more cover and clutch bolts off of eBay and i have to wait for them to get here in another few days to week.

there is a section in the repair manual that gives torque specs, but it goes by bolt size, not part by part which is very little help.

stuart.


It is 87 lbs - but as he mentioned, it's 87 INCH pounds, not 87 FOOT pounds. 87 in-lb is about 7 ft-lb. You will need a small torque wrench (calibrated in inch lb) to torque that, most average torque wrenches will not be calibrated for such a low amount.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:37 am

hey wingadmin:

my torque wrench will go down to about 8-9 inch pounds, so i'll calibrate it for that. are the clutch cover bolts the same torque as the rear engine cover bolts?

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby spiralout » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:53 pm

Sorry about that Stuart. Guess I should have put it in bold or something. Yes, clutch cover bolts are the same.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:02 pm

hey spiral,

no problem. i guess i read it wrong and set my torque wrench for 87 ft. lbs :oops:. i have one other question....think it would be a good idea to get new tensioner springs? the ones that are on it look stretched and aren't holding the belts very tight. i would say there's at least a good inch of up and down play with the new belts on the sprockets. im also going to take the oil screen off and clean it out while i have the motor off and on my workbench. the new shifter shaft seal is on its way, should be in by Saturday.

boy, this is taking a little longer and more involved than i expected. i just hope this is all well worth the effort.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby spiralout » Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:38 am

If the springs are cheap and you think they're sprung, might as well while you're in there. As far as the oil screen, good idea. I forgot all about it and the neutral switch when I had the engine out of my 1000. Really wish I'd remembered those...

Edit Here's a good write up replacing and tensioning your belts correctly http://filipi.com/ngw/roady/Timing-Belts-Remove-Install-GL1000.pdf

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:32 am

spiralout wrote:If the springs are cheap and you think they're sprung, might as well while you're in there. As far as the oil screen, good idea. I forgot all about it and the neutral switch when I had the engine out of my 1000. Really wish I'd remembered those...

Edit Here's a good write up replacing and tensioning your belts correctly http://filipi.com/ngw/roady/Timing-Belts-Remove-Install-GL1000.pdf


hey spiral, thanks for the link on the timing belts, and your thoughts about the tensioner springs. new springs are only about $4.00 each, so im going to get them anyway. the only problem im having with these belts are i have no arrows on either cam pulley, only little dots. speaking of the neutral switch, mine is starting to do the same as one of the other member's on this site, when i have it in gear, my LCD shows it as being in gear, but as soon as i pull the clutch lever in, it shows it being in neutral and the green neutral light comes on, and when i stop, the green neutral light comes on dimly and trying to find true neutral is a problem until the neutral light gets brighter, or i release the clutch to know whether its in gear or not. guess i'll have to remove it and clean the connectors on that also. and here i thought this was gonna be easy :o.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:52 am

roadwanderer2 wrote:hey spiral, thanks for the link on the timing belts, and your thoughts about the tensioner springs. new springs are only about $4.00 each, so im going to get them anyway. the only problem im having with these belts are i have no arrows on either cam pulley, only little dots. speaking of the neutral switch, mine is starting to do the same as one of the other member's on this site, when i have it in gear, my LCD shows it as being in gear, but as soon as i pull the clutch lever in, it shows it being in neutral and the green neutral light comes on, and when i stop, the green neutral light comes on dimly and trying to find true neutral is a problem until the neutral light gets brighter, or i release the clutch to know whether its in gear or not. guess i'll have to remove it and clean the connectors on that also. and here i thought this was gonna be easy :o.

stuart.


When your neutral light comes on when you pull the clutch in, it is an indication that your clutch diode has failed. A fairly easy and cheap fix.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:37 am

[/quote wingadmin] When your neutral light comes on when you pull the clutch in, it is an indication that your clutch diode has failed. A fairly easy and cheap fix.

ok, now that i know that, where can i find the neutral switch on my motor. i cant find it. i just finished cleaning the oil screen, man was it filthy. it was so clogged up, i couldn't see the screen on it. i had to use a wire brush to get all the gunk off of it, but now it looks like new again. glad i took it out to check it.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:42 am

roadwanderer2 wrote:[/quote wingadmin] When your neutral light comes on when you pull the clutch in, it is an indication that your clutch diode has failed. A fairly easy and cheap fix.

ok, now that i know that, where can i find the neutral switch on my motor. i cant find it. i just finished cleaning the oil screen, man was it filthy. it was so clogged up, i couldn't see the screen on it. i had to use a wire brush to get all the gunk off of it, but now it looks like new again. glad i took it out to check it.

stuart.


It's inside the front engine cover:

Image

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:55 am

WingAdmin wrote:
roadwanderer2 wrote:[/quote wingadmin] When your neutral light comes on when you pull the clutch in, it is an indication that your clutch diode has failed. A fairly easy and cheap fix.

ok, now that i know that, where can i find the neutral switch on my motor. i cant find it. i just finished cleaning the oil screen, man was it filthy. it was so clogged up, i couldn't see the screen on it. i had to use a wire brush to get all the gunk off of it, but now it looks like new again. glad i took it out to check it.

stuart.


It's inside the front engine cover:

Image


oh man, you gotta be kidding me. is there anything else i can do to fix it without taking the front cover off? you mentioned a diode, how can i go about checking/fixing that before i take the front cover off. i would rather start there than have to pull this engine apart to get to the neutral switch itself.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:00 pm

Have a look at this topic - It discusses replacing the diode, including pictures showing the location: viewtopic.php?t=4126

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:11 pm

WingAdmin wrote:Have a look at this topic - It discusses replacing the diode, including pictures showing the location: viewtopic.php?t=4126


thanks for the link wingadmin, im gonna wait until i have everything back together to check the diode now that i know what it looks like and where to find it. hopefully that's the problem. id rather replace that than have to take the front of the motor cover off.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Tue May 05, 2015 1:34 pm

well, the motor is back on my bike, and everything except for the radiator grill, lower fairing covers and floor boards are back together.

after i refilled the oil and coolant, i turned the key on, pulled in on the clutch lever, pressed the starter button and it fired up on the first shot. it runs GREAT :D, and now that the valves are properly adjusted, you cant even hear the motor. it runs very quiet until you give it some throttle and the only sound you hear is from the exhaust system. the volts are up about 12.5 at an idle and goes up to 13 when throttled up to 2000 rpm.

i just want to thank all you guys. without your help and support i would have never gotten this job done.

thank you all so much,

stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby WingAdmin » Tue May 05, 2015 3:02 pm

Awesome Stuart! Now go ride!! :)

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby roadwanderer2 » Tue May 05, 2015 5:54 pm

thanks wingadmin, but i cant just yet, i still have a few things to put back on and adjust, like the heel-toe shifter, engine case guards, and some of my some of my running lights aren't working. i have to trace the wires back to the toggle switches and see why they aren't working.

does anyone have a photo of how the radiator brackets for the chrome grill bolt up, i cant seem to get my grill back on :?. im missing a crap load of nuts, i have no idea what happened to them. im missing all the nuts that bolt up the left side sub frame for the side stand so i cant connect my left side floorboard and heel-toe shifter :cry:.

as soon as i can get these things taken care of, i can take it out for a "test run" to see how it is.

stuart.

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Re: removing the motor from my GL1100

Postby Mspinner » Tue May 05, 2015 8:16 pm

roadwanderer2 wrote:well, the motor is back on my bike, and everything except for the radiator grill, lower fairing covers and floor boards are back together.

after i refilled the oil and coolant, i turned the key on, pulled in on the clutch lever, pressed the starter button and it fired up on the first shot. it runs GREAT :D, and now that the valves are properly adjusted, you cant even hear the motor. it runs very quiet until you give it some throttle and the only sound you hear is from the exhaust system. the volts are up about 12.5 at an idle and goes up to 13 when throttled up to 2000 rpm.

i just want to thank all you guys. without your help and support i would have never gotten this job done.

thank you all so much,

stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

THATS OUTSTANDING! I give you alot of credit Stuart...i dont think i could of done that myself. Great Job!




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