Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
  • Sponsored Links
User avatar
Flyboy6
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:04 am
Location: Toronto Ontario
Motorcycle: 1983GL650i
1983 Aspencade
1997 Valkyrie
1966 Cessna 172

Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby Flyboy6 » Mon May 04, 2015 3:52 pm



There may well be an existing thread on this - but looking for anyone who has replaced thermo switch for fan operation (on 83 1100 Asp) with a panel mount switch - and any downsides I may be missing. best to use switched line as a jumper across the thermo switch posts? Or switch a line from accessory bar direct to the fan leads? (I like this better, keeps me out of the loom...)

I have no sense for specs or fusing on the switch - presumably it matters.

PO appears to have disconnected all of the little side lights - presumably he found as I am that the stock charging system is barely up to the task, especially in any prolonged periods at less than about 3K rpm. Decent cooling on a warm day seems to need 35mph to keep temp in check (at midpoint notch on dial). I am into a full review of all of the cooling components as well, to get the system efficient.

Thinking of wiring in a dedicated small battery in the pannier as a 'traffic jam' solution. Toronto kind of sucks in this regard, and often very hard to get clear of the city, or back in, without parking on a freeway for a while.

thanks for advice


Toronto Ontario
83 Aspencade
83 GL650i
1966 Cessna

User avatar
redial
Posts: 1993
Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:17 am
Location: Kapunda, SouthAustralia
Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500 Spectre Red Aspencade

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby redial » Mon May 04, 2015 8:36 pm

First off, I have no experience on 1100 nor their electricals.

The question I think you are pointing to is: "Can I connect from the battery, through a fuse, and a switch to power one or two fans to blow air into the cooling system."

As long as the fans are not the heavy duty industrial type, and perhaps some of the "standard computer fans" could be used, as they run on these type of voltages. They should be waterproof/water protected, as I would imagine they would be mounted on the front, and blow the 'cooler' air through the cooling system.

There are a number of options on FleaBay, for around AU$25 (about the same in CAN$), with one shaped like a snail. Type in "waterproof cooling fans" and you should see a number, and you can select the size that is suitable from about 40mm (about 1.75inches) to about 120mm (about 5inches). This should give you something more to think about.
Len in Kapunda

The world is not going to finish today, as it is already tomorrow in Australia and New Zealand, and other islands of foreign nations such as Guam and Samoa.

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby WingAdmin » Tue May 05, 2015 9:56 am

The main drawback to replacing a thermo switch with a manually operated switch is being alerted to the fact that you forgot to switch it on by the steam blowing out of the blown head gasket.

The fan also draws a ton of current. Just switching it on and running it all the time is going to have negative effects on your battery - particularly when idling, when it will eventually kill your battery and leave you stranded.

User avatar
Fatwing Chris
Posts: 741
Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:10 pm
Location: Ont.,Canada
Motorcycle: 2004 ABS Model Goldwing

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby Fatwing Chris » Tue May 05, 2015 4:55 pm

My 83 Int always seemed late to come on to me so I added a switch.It's easier to keep it cool(manually turn on when the guage starts to climb) than it is to cool it down after the fan comes on late.I left the thermal switch connected as well,so that if I got distracted it would come on by itself.
If I'da known it would last this long,I'da taken better care of it.
Chris
Double Dark
Darkside # 1602

User avatar
virgilmobile
Posts: 7652
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby virgilmobile » Tue May 05, 2015 6:45 pm

I have never had a issue that would require a manual switch to run the fan.Dont forget,this engine,as with all the wings are designed to operate in the 185 to 195 degree range all day...
Yes mine would get close to the"hot by the gauge" but the fan always kicked on right at the red mark.
It cycled the fan right at 195° then off at 185°.I checked.
The fan would kick on..run for a few minutes then off again.
The gauge was a bit deceiving ....A digital temp showed 190° just as the needle approached the red.I would have been nervous if it was above 205°.
Even my riding two up fully loaded in the Mojave Desert (112°) the cooling system Was fine.
There should never be a "marginal" cooling system.
If it does not preform correctly,fix it.
Test the thermosenor against the temp meter.Test the thermoswitch cut in and out.Check the coolant temperature.Replace the coolant.Flush the radiator.Get a new radiator cap.
Replace the thermostat...it's really needed for quicker warm up and coolant flow control.You cannot run these engines correctly without one.

Sorry...I go on and on....

Yes you could add a switch to manually operate the fan...It would have to be wired in parallel with the thermo switch.The bike applies power to the fan with the key on.The switch is the ground path.
Yes it does draw a bunch of power and probably would run the battery down if the RPM stays below 3000 for a half hour or so.

User avatar
Flyboy6
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:04 am
Location: Toronto Ontario
Motorcycle: 1983GL650i
1983 Aspencade
1997 Valkyrie
1966 Cessna 172

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby Flyboy6 » Tue May 05, 2015 8:13 pm

Thanks for all the experienced responses. Lots to learn here. I am working through the full system - already located a wobbly water pump (replacing it), and will replace the thermostat while I'm crawling around under there. Rad fins could use a little cleaning up, but it's pretty good. By the way - having a hard time pulling the rad out - may be able to get it all done with rad just pulled fwd as it is now.

this site is a huge help. You guys are great.
Toronto Ontario
83 Aspencade
83 GL650i
1966 Cessna

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby glasshead » Tue May 05, 2015 8:26 pm

While on the topic... there are times in the summer when I get home from a ride (or to my destination), hit the kill switch and the fan is still going. Should I leave the key on until the fan shuts off or is it o.k. to just turn the ignition off and go on my way?

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby WingAdmin » Wed May 06, 2015 10:05 am

glasshead wrote:While on the topic... there are times in the summer when I get home from a ride (or to my destination), hit the kill switch and the fan is still going. Should I leave the key on until the fan shuts off or is it o.k. to just turn the ignition off and go on my way?


If you have hit the kill switch, coolant is no longer flowing, so having the fan run is pretty pointless. The bike will heat soak and temperature may rise slightly after shutdown, but no more heat is being produced, so it's not going to overheat. It's safe to just shut off.

User avatar
RBGERSON
Posts: 2621
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby RBGERSON » Wed May 06, 2015 12:39 pm

Once the tubes are off the radiator and fan unplugged it should come out fairly easily..on the standards the horn bracket scan get in the way but get be removed or bent up and out a bit. To get at the thermo you need to remove the radiator..at least I have to.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

User avatar
Flyboy6
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:04 am
Location: Toronto Ontario
Motorcycle: 1983GL650i
1983 Aspencade
1997 Valkyrie
1966 Cessna 172

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby Flyboy6 » Wed May 06, 2015 12:49 pm

perfect - I thunk it is the horn brackets that are the trouble, I'll bend them up. Most of the front cover gasket, and dowels, stayed on the engine side ($#!?#@) so I am having trouble working around the bottom of the rad to get it clean.
Toronto Ontario
83 Aspencade
83 GL650i
1966 Cessna

User avatar
urbanmadness
Posts: 214
Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2014 3:31 pm
Location: Sacramento, California
Motorcycle: 1982 Gl1100A Aspencade *sold
1989 GL1500 Aspencade

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby urbanmadness » Wed May 06, 2015 1:03 pm

I have a parade switch on my 1100. How I wired it in was on the fan harness, just tap into the wire that goes to the fan sensor and switch it to ground. That way you are not cutting up the bike harness (I have problems with messing with a vehicle harness if I can avoid it). Doing it this way keeps your fan temp switch in-tact.

Now, why did I do it? Bike would get warm on a 95 degree day in stop and go traffic. Turns out it's a blown head gasket..... soooo, I should have good temps when the bike is fixed (waiting on a new gasket from Mother H-er) It's got new hoses, new thermostat, new cooling system o-rings, gaskets, and I'm going to replace the cap. My waterpump... well, it has no play and is not leaking. I will probably order a new one and keep it on hand, as mine is the original.

Now will I keep the parade switch, probably, it does give you some heat on a cold day when you are stopped at a light (LOL). and if I loose my temp switch on the road, I can nurse it home, without a second thougt.

Earl43P
Posts: 50
Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2014 7:15 pm
Location: Elizabeth City, NC
Motorcycle: 82 GL1100, parked in Pa.
93 GL1500 Interstate DD
99 Valkyrie IS

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby Earl43P » Thu May 07, 2015 7:23 am

I too mounted a manual switch for my 82, even though my OEM fan switch works perfectly.
The base gate is frequently backed up, so I might sit, inching forward through 3-4 traffic light cycles immediately after exiting the freeway. Temp climbs so I turn on the switch until it drops back to its normal spot.

Even when I occasionally forget to switch it off, I have never had a low battery problem on the next start.
I may have had the fan on 20+ minutes from approaching the gate to my parking spot and never hit 30 mph.
Never had an issue.
When all else fails, RTFM!

99 Valkyrie Interstate
82 GL1100 nekkid-ish
93 GL1500 Next!

User avatar
tom84std
Posts: 493
Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:40 am
Location: Arlington, Texas
Motorcycle: '84 STD 1200
2002 VTX1800
2007 Shadow 750
69 BSA Bitsa
2004 Virago
VW Trike

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby tom84std » Thu May 07, 2015 8:37 am

With everything operating correctly there shouldn't really be any need for such a modification. A toggle switch parallel with the radiator thermal switch wouldn't hurt a thing, but it could be left on if forgotten. It's an old system. I'd clean and inspect the radiator. Test or better yet, replace the thermostat (the one controlling coolant flow). Clean and test (again it may be time for a new one) the radiator thermo switch. It's a good system when everything's working correctly, and it should maintain the proper engine temp throughout the entire range. I've ridden my bikes in just about every condition I can think of, short of extreme desert heat. The fan and thermostats have always been able to keep the engine where it needs to be. I live in Texas and 110* is normal in August.

User avatar
echinus1988
Posts: 112
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:53 pm
Location: Denver, Colorado
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Aspencade

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby echinus1988 » Tue Jun 23, 2015 5:21 am

Ok, I hope someone can answer me so I am better educated on my first liquid cooled bike.

1980 Goldwing, fairing, bags, trunk.
I rinsed out the radiator, no flush used, distilled water, run it through, drain it, added silicate free antifreeze 50/50 mix.
I replaced the thermostat, radiator cap, 2 main hoses. I have checked to make sure I am not getting any seepage around the water pump and there is none.

What I would like to know is, what temperature range will the goldwing run in comfortably. If I run thermostat only, it's up to the red almost immediately and won't cool down very well. In fact, I find puddles of antifreeze on the ground when I do that. I thought I had overfilled it (I had) but since then, I just replenish the reservior which needs frequent refills. I'm not blowing white smoke when I start the bike but if I let it heat up to almost the red I smell antifreeze and assume I am blowing it out the reservoir overflow again.

If I run 65-75 mph, the temperature will climb to the point I want the fan to turn on. Right up to the red but not quite into it. I was coming home yesterday, 60-65 degrees out, running 70 mph and the temperature gauge wouldn't come off the red until I turned the fan on manually. Yes I did install a switch because of the antifreeze blowing out when it gets hot. I really would expect the engine temperature to climb on 90 degree days but whenever I put stress on the engine (high speed especially on the highway and even more so up hill or climbing Lookout Mountain to experience the switchbacks) the heat goes up and doesn't stop. At 40-50 when the engine is loafing, no problem the temperature stays just about the center of the operating range.

So my questions are:
1. Am I being paranoid about the temperature? Is it made to run up to the red before turning on the fan like the guys said at the motorcycle salvage yard? If so, what could be causing the antifreeze to blow out of the overflow tube? Could the tube between the radiator and the reservoir be bad or partially blocked allowing a build up that blow through then?
2. Waiting until the fan turns on normally is ok? It will not allow excess heat to damage the engine or oil? The other day before I reconnected the manual switch (I took it off to test the cooling further), the fan turned on the first time but the gauge registered in the red zone just as the guys said at the salvage yard.
3. See question 1, Am I being paranoid? Just hate the idea of burning up the engine.

My two previous bikes were both air cooled so I have no experience with liquid cooled bikes. I ran in west Texas for the most part then. Now I am in Denver, Colorado and it gets hot but I just want to make sure I take care of it. If I can remove the switch and be safe I am all for it!

Thank again for your help. This group is the greatest!

Steve

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Add switch for fan on 1100? marginal cooling

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jun 23, 2015 9:59 am

Something is not right. The temperature gauge should NEVER register in the red. If it is, then the engine is overheating.

Normally I would suggest that perhaps the temperature gauge or its sensor might be off, but the fact that you're getting coolant coming out (and smell) says to me that there is actually an overheating issue going on.

The fact that when running 40-50 mph on level ground, your temperature is staying in the center range indicates that the cooling system is operating correctly. So I think you've got a fan issue - or more precisely, a fan thermostatic switch issue.

How it should operate when in hot temperatures or under load, is that the temperature gets near (but not into) the red zone, the fan switches on, and the temperature drops down to partway between the center and the red zone. The fan should shut off at that point, and the temperature will then increase once more. This cycle should repeat.

The thermostatic switch should turn on when the coolant reaches 98-102 degrees C (208-216 F), and turn off at 93-97 C (199-206 F).

You can remove this switch and submerge it in cooking oil along with a thermometer, then heat the oil on a stove to check the temperatures at which it is operating.

You said you replaced your radiator cap - it's also possible that the replacement cap is not allowing sufficient pressure, which will limit the amount of heat the coolant can absorb, and will make it send coolant to the reservoir at a lower pressure at which it normally should.

Gauge temperatures
Gauge temperatures




Return to “GL1100 Information & Questions”




Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], RoadRogue and 1 guest