Electrical - horn and blinkers


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Stubbegubb
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 3:37 pm
Location: Norway
Motorcycle: 1980 GL110 Interstate

Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby Stubbegubb » Wed May 13, 2015 4:40 am



I have a 1980 Interstate 1100 US model. The horn does not work and I am planning to strip the tank and saddle off to do some probing and checking. There is no power to the horns, I am not sure if I have a faulty power lead or a ground problem. There is also no power to the radio and GPS, same for auxiliary lights. Everything else works. The blinkers are on the same fuse and work OK, but when ignition is on there is a weak steady light in the front blinkers - not in the rear. Is this a symptom of something?



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CMReynolds1
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: Oregon
Motorcycle: 2013 F6B

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby CMReynolds1 » Wed May 13, 2015 9:22 am

It almost sounds like a bad ground somewhere in the circuits. I would find every ground and clean and reset them. Any corrosion can cause a bad ground. You want clean metal to metal contact. I have also included a wiring diagram for your bike.

Good Luck!
Attachments
Ride Safe,
Taz


TF 116, RivRon 512, Can Tho, S. Vietnam, 8/66-/9/68, GM(G)2

Stubbegubb
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 3:37 pm
Location: Norway
Motorcycle: 1980 GL110 Interstate

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby Stubbegubb » Wed May 13, 2015 10:40 am

Thanks, now waiting for clear weather so I can start looking for bad grounds.

Just retired from Norwegian Navy after 38 years service, two tours in Afghanistan. Proud to have served.

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CMReynolds1
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: Oregon
Motorcycle: 2013 F6B

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby CMReynolds1 » Wed May 13, 2015 11:52 am

I am sure your countrymen are grateful for your 38 years of service. That is an outstanding achievement. I honor your commitment. Take care!
Ride Safe,
Taz


TF 116, RivRon 512, Can Tho, S. Vietnam, 8/66-/9/68, GM(G)2

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Wilcoy02
Posts: 726
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
Location: Marengo, Ohio
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16

1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15


98 valkyrie sold 8/16

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby Wilcoy02 » Wed May 13, 2015 7:07 pm

My hat is off to you Stubbegubb

That is a great achievement.

Stubbegubb
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 3:37 pm
Location: Norway
Motorcycle: 1980 GL110 Interstate

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby Stubbegubb » Fri May 15, 2015 3:13 pm

Problem sorted. I finally had a day of sunshine and tok off saddle and false tank. Traced the leads from the horns to start looking for faults - and found a loose contact. Could it be that simple? Found another loose contact that fit, connected them, turned on ignition and tried the horn. Was almost blown out of the saddle, horns work. Now it is legal to ride. Next was fog lights, radio and GPS that were all connected to the auxiliary fuse. Problem is the lights, they overload the circuit and blow the fuse. They are twin 55W lights on a 5 amp fuse, I did not find a relay at first look but there surely must be one? I wanted to get a ride while the weather was good - it is forecast rain the coming week - so I just disconnected the lights, put bits back in place and took off. Had a great ride with my 12 year old son. Will get back to the Electrical gremlins later.

User avatar
CMReynolds1
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: Oregon
Motorcycle: 2013 F6B

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby CMReynolds1 » Fri May 15, 2015 3:40 pm

It has been my experience that the horn is always on a relay. The current (amps) that a horn draws is high, much higher than 5 amps. That is most likely what is taking the horn out. Trace the wiring and be sure the relay is still on the bike, if not, you should place one on there. It should be equal to or slightly higher in amperage than the horn itself.
Good Luck.
Ride Safe,
Taz


TF 116, RivRon 512, Can Tho, S. Vietnam, 8/66-/9/68, GM(G)2

User avatar
Wilcoy02
Posts: 726
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
Location: Marengo, Ohio
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16

1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15


98 valkyrie sold 8/16

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby Wilcoy02 » Fri May 15, 2015 4:27 pm

Stubbegubb

Yes at times a problem is that simple. In fact most problems are simple once you find it.

To save time with the false tank I have left the front two bolts out of my bike for years.
I also have not had the seat bolts in place for several years.

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WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby WingAdmin » Mon May 18, 2015 11:25 am

CMReynolds1 wrote:It has been my experience that the horn is always on a relay. The current (amps) that a horn draws is high, much higher than 5 amps. That is most likely what is taking the horn out. Trace the wiring and be sure the relay is still on the bike, if not, you should place one on there. It should be equal to or slightly higher in amperage than the horn itself.
Good Luck.


The horn on a GL1100 is not on a relay, it is switched directly through the horn button. It SHOULD be through a relay, and when I upgraded my horns to FIAMM Freeway Blasters, which require even more current, I had to run a wire directly to the battery to power them, and switch them with a relay actuated by the original horn wire.

Also, the OP mentioned twin 55 watt driving lights. The electrical system (the stator, specifically) will not support dual 55 watt lights - you will actually kill your battery running them, even when the engine is at cruise speed. You can run up to two 35 watt driving lights, but even then you will need to have the engine at around 3,000 or above in order to prevent draining the battery.

You might be better off replacing them with a set of LED driving lights, which will put out easily as much light as the 55 watt lights do, but draw only 10-15 watts.

See:

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18676

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=26057

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24105

Stubbegubb
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 3:37 pm
Location: Norway
Motorcycle: 1980 GL110 Interstate

Re: Electrical - horn and blinkers

Postby Stubbegubb » Tue May 19, 2015 1:18 am

Tanks all for good advice, this forum has been great help. Starting to get the hang of it now. As I suspected the extra lights are wired without a relay, and I appreciate the point about draining battery, I had my doubts about this setup. Clearly previous owner did not know what he was doing. On the positive side, I got a good deal on the bike sine he could not get the electrics sorted. He probably thought the stator was faulty and that there was a major repair required, as far as I can see all is well once I disconnected extra lights. I will probably just remove them, will not be driving much in the dark anyway. Now the Gold Wing is sorted and I am looking forward to some great rides.




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