removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange


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removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:15 am



ok, i have my rear wheel off the bike so i can replace the tire, but im having a problem with removing the inner bearing flange. i removed the 5 flange nuts that are on it, and i cant get it to budge. its on there solid. is there a way it has to come off or is it supposed to just pull out of the wheel. i want to do a "servicing" to it, i.e. clean out all the old grease from the splines and repack it with the moly lube, but i cant get it off the wheel hub.

stuart.



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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby RoadRogue » Fri Jun 05, 2015 4:31 pm

If I am reading this correctly you are refering to the driven flange, it has splines on it that slip into the final drive. The 5 nuts you undid have nothing to do with removing the flange. There are 5 fingers that slide into rubber dampeners in the rear wheel.
Number 4 in this diagram
Number 4 in this diagram
Gently use a couple of prybars to evenly pry it straight off. 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:27 pm

HEY RoadRogue, i tried to pry it off using 2 different pry bars, and a few wide flathead screwdrivers and it wouldn't budge, so i put the 5 nuts back on, torqued them down, and forced the moly paste into the splines and put the final drive back on after i forced the moly paste into the gears and into the front splines for the drive shaft.

everything is now back together and i'll tell ya, it made a hugh difference in how the bike rides with the new back tire and the final drive all molyed up with the proper amount of grease. its like riding a different bike. cant wait for my front tire to get here. that will REALLY make a difference.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby Aussie81Interstate » Fri Jun 05, 2015 6:07 pm

Wow,

If you removed the 5 nuts on the flange and could not get it to move - it's really stuck in there.

Glad you put the nuts back on and torqued them up - they are hard enough to do up normally. When I got another flange from the USA last year the person who sent me the flange undid the nuts, and I had to put the flange in a vice to make sure they were done up correctly.

I would give the rear flange a few good whacks with a rubber/nylon mallet or a dead blow mallet - it should come out - then use levers or pry bars to remove it.. You might want to pout some moly paste on the fingers when you get it out, and I bet they have either rubber stuck to them or rust.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Fri Jun 05, 2015 6:48 pm

Aussie81Interstate wrote:Wow,

If you removed the 5 nuts on the flange and could not get it to move - it's really stuck in there.

Glad you put the nuts back on and torqued them up - they are hard enough to do up normally. When I got another flange from the USA last year the person who sent me the flange undid the nuts, and I had to put the flange in a vice to make sure they were done up correctly.

I would give the rear flange a few good whacks with a rubber/nylon mallet or a dead blow mallet - it should come out - then use levers or pry bars to remove it.. You might want to pout some moly paste on the fingers when you get it out, and I bet they have either rubber stuck to them or rust.


im gonna say they are stuck with both rubber AND rust, so im not gonna mess with it. i forced the moly paste into all the splines, on the bearing itself and on the final drive side and on the axle bolt and put everything back together.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:48 pm

Those fingers were well and truly stuck on my GL1100 as well when I first got it. I hosed them down with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. The next morning I put three pry bars (actually two foot long tire spoons) around the final drive, put small blocks of wood on the wheel to use as pivots, then I applied pressure to two of them and had a volunteer apply pressure to the third while I whacked the final drive with a dead blow (nylon) hammer. It finally let go with a POP and came right out. I cleaned up the fingers, lubed them with the same Moly paste as I used for the splines, and put it back - and never had a problem with it again.

Image

Image

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 3:37 pm

i see by the last pic in your posting that you put the moly in where the bearing splines are, i did the same thing to mine. i took a few "gobs" of the grease and packed it in the same way you would repack a wheel bearing. i filled it with grease and wiped off the "excess" and reinstalled it.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jun 08, 2015 3:40 pm

roadwanderer2 wrote:i see by the last pic in your posting that you put the moly in where the bearing splines are, i did the same thing to mine. i took a few "gobs" of the grease and packed it in the same way you would repack a wheel bearing. i filled it with grease and wiped off the "excess" and reinstalled it.

stuart.


Yes, those are splines and need lubrication just like all the other splines in the drivetrain: driveshaft, U-joint, final drive, wheel hub.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 3:50 pm

lol, trust me, i have a lot more grease in my hub than you have in that pic lol.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 11:38 am

well, my rear wheel is back together....again. everything looked good before i put it back on the bike making sure everything that had to be lubed was lubed and greased. i even put in a new lower right shock rubber bushing because the old one was torn in half. i also THINK i found out why my rear tire was rubbing up against the bracket that holds the rear caliper on. last year i bought a 140/90-16 tire, i was missing the spacer that goes inbetween the hub and the caliper bracket. i had the spacer between the swing arm and the caliper bracket but the one on the inside of the bracket to the hub which led me to think the tire was too wide so i went down one tire width size from and 140 to a 130/90-16, but its ok, im not going to change anything out. when its time to replace the rear tire i'll go back up to a 140.

one more note...all that scraping noise i thought was coming from my clutch and or transmission, it was actually coming from the rear hub bearing starting to wear out. i took the bike for a test ride up and down my street and that noise is gone, so it WAS the bearing that was making all that noise. for the next few days im gonna stay close to home "just in case". anyway....the bike is all back together again.

once more, thanks guys for all your comments and thoughts concerning this. without your input and the "how-to" articles i wouldn't have been able to get this done. now i think im gonna go to the store and pick up a pack of BBQ ribs and pig out. i definitely earned it.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby Wilcoy02 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 1:04 pm

enjoy those ribs. OINK OINK

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:07 pm

Wilcoy02 wrote:enjoy those ribs. OINK OINK


oh trust me, i did. they were YUMMIE. now to the matter at hand. not sure what to do about this situation....ok, i have everything back together, took it for a test ride up and down my block and it did great. went onto a road that's not heavily traveled and opened it up a little. took it up to 75mph, and i started feeling a "shuttering" coming from the rear. i brought the bike home, put it up on its center stand, fired it back up, got it up thru the gears to 4th gear and noticed the whole back wheel, not just the tire, but the tire AND wheel is hopping up and down. any ideas as to what's causing this? the tire is inflated to its max pressure, 2oz of dyna beads are inside it and everything is torqued to specs. do i have to take this wheel back off the bike, break it down again, take the beads out and have it "spin balanced" and have tape on weights put on it? im at a loss here. i don't know why this is happening or what to do about it.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby Wilcoy02 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:36 pm

You have more problem than a balance problem. If you do take the beads out it is easiest to use a very clean shop vac and suck the little things out.

Could be you got a tire that is out of round or just plain bad.

I hope someone can come along and guide you through this.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 4:09 pm

i thought about the tire being bad, but this tire was on my other rear wheel and it didn't act this way. i had the dyna beads in it and it ran nice and smooth all the way up 90mph. is it possible that the spacers on the rotor side could not be seated correctly? again, this wasn't happening when i had only the one spacer in it. in any event im gonna have to pull everything apart again and double check everything. this is turning out to be a real PITA :twisted:. question.......is it possible that the tire isn't seated correctly on the wheel causing the wheel to "hop"?

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby Wilcoy02 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 9:54 pm

I did not have the big spacer in the wheel next to the pumpkin ball and it ran smooth without it.
I took the wheel off and put the spacer in I forgot.

The spacers you are talking about would keep your rotor and brakes from working.
maybe your wheel is out of balance. I really have no idea I'm guessing

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 6:30 am

'mornin wilcoy,

i know it has one spacer inside the final drive housing, and 2 more on the disk side, all 3 are in place as per the description in the "how-to" article. there's got to be something making this wheel hop. today im taking it back apart and checking things as i go along. question...is it possible if the part where the final drive bolts up to the swing arm isn't tightened enough cause this hopping? im going to check that first before i pull everything else off.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby Wilcoy02 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:57 am

I would not think the 3 bolts not tightned enough would cause it to hop. If they were not tight then your wheel probably would not be turned by the engine.

I am not versed in this area so it is like the blind leading the blind.

Once you find the culpert let us know.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 10:18 am

ok, so i took everything back apart, checked the bearings on both sides of the wheel, they are both new sealed bearings so i cant do anything with them, the axle bolt is straight and true, all the spacers are good, the final drive is also good. when i put it all back together again, after torqueing everything to specs i raised the bike up off the ground and fired it up and went up thru the gears into 4th gear, i watched the back tire and wheel start hopping up and down again. the only thing that was moving up and down was the rear wheel, the final drive and swing arm stayed perfectly tight and wasn't moving. its come to my conclusion that the wheel is no good. i called the seller that i bought it from on eBay and explained to him what's going on with it and told him the wheel is no good and cant be used and he gave me a full refund on it including the shipping cost.

now im right back where i started from, looking for another wheel. this freakin SUCKS. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:15 pm

ok, now im really puzzled. i removed the tire from the wheel, put the wheel back onto the bike, started up, ran it up thru the gears to 4th gear, used a piece of flat bar and clamped it onto the swing arm right to the front edge of the wheel while it was spinning and it was turning true. no vertical movement in the wheel. now im going to put the tire back onto the wheel and put it back on the bike and see what's happening. i also removed all the dyna beads from inside the tire before i put the tire onto the wheel.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Jun 28, 2015 3:46 pm

How about the wheel dampers? Are they in good shape? Do you have play between the spider and the dampers when it is installed?

Are the inner races of the wheel bearings the correct size?

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 4:39 pm

hey wingadmin.

everything looks good, the flange dampeners are intact and the final drive sits where and how its supposed to. like i said before, when i put just the wheel back on the bike and ran it, it ran true, no side to side or up and down movement. I've put the tire back onto the wheel minus the dyna beads, but after all this work, im exhausted. my knee, the one i had surgery on is giving me a lot of pain so I've stopped for the day. i an ice pack my knee and took a couple of pain pills and im resting for the rest of day. i'll pick up where i left off tomorrow morning. I've had this wheel and tire off the bike 3 times already today. i cant physically do any more today.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby littlebeaver » Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:08 pm

Makes me wonder if the tire was fully seated.... Also, when using these dyna beads, you have to be extremely careful not to use too much lube on the edges of the rims, if you do add too much, it could cause a clump inside the tire as the lube will flow down were the beads roll and they will get all clumpy and such, it must be dry inside there, that could make that sucker hop I bet....Gotta make darn sure to use just enough lube to get the tire on and no more ...

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:28 pm

littlebeaver wrote:Makes me wonder if the tire was fully seated.... Also, when using these dyna beads, you have to be extremely careful not to use too much lube on the edges of the rims, if you do add too much, it could cause a clump inside the tire as the lube will flow down were the beads roll and they will get all clumpy and such, it must be dry inside there, that could make that sucker hop I bet....Gotta make darn sure to use just enough lube to get the tire on and no more ...


i was wondering about the tire not being seated also that's why i took it off the wheel and tried putting just the wheel back on the bike by itself. i didn't use any "lube" so to speak, i used a thin film of water. i dipped my hand into a bowl and wiped it around the edge of the tire only, nothing on the rim/wheel. when i took the tire off the wheel it was dry inside and the beads were able to roll around freely. i'll put the wheel back on the bike tomorrow and see what happens. i cant do anymore today because im in too much pain with my knee.

stuart.

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby littlebeaver » Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:56 pm

You could spin the wheel and see if it spins true maybe... Not sure if you have a stand like this or not..I use the chair as a guide....

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Re: removing rear wheel, rotor and inner bearing flange

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 6:34 pm

littlebeaver wrote:You could spin the wheel and see if it spins true maybe... Not sure if you have a stand like this or not..I use the chair as a guide....
007.JPG


that's a nice wheel stand. wish i had one like that. what i did was put the wheel on the bike and use a "C" clamp and clamped a small piece of flat bar down on the swing arm just in front of the wheel, fired the bike up and went up thru the gears into 4th and watched the wheel as it rotated. it spun true with no up and down or side to side movement. the only time you could see this wheel and tire "hopping" is when it was in 4th or 5th gear under throttle simulating highway speed, spinning at approximately 70mph. i remembered looking at my speedometer and tachometer to see how fast i was going. anything under that and it spun without any abnormal movement. with the tire removed, it spun true at all speed ranges. tomorrow im gonna put the wheel and tire back on and try again to see if in fact the tire was improperly mounted by the tire shop. all i know is this tire and wheel didn't start doing this until i got this new (to me) wheel. when i got the new tire, i put it on my old wheel and didn't have any problems with it.

stuart.




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