Rear brake issue.


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Beat up nagger
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 1:25 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Motorcycle: 81 Honda goldwing gl1100

Rear brake issue.

Postby Beat up nagger » Thu Jul 02, 2015 3:46 pm



Ok quick question maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
Basicly i appl rear brakes and lever won't return. I have to pull it back up. And both pushing and pulling it is very hard it's almost like it needs to be greased or something. So would that be a lever issue or a
Master cylinder issue?



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RoadRogue
Posts: 1913
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:51 pm
Location: Castlegar BC, Canada
Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby RoadRogue » Thu Jul 02, 2015 3:52 pm

Its a lever issue and a very common one at that. Remove the pedal ,clean the rust off the pivot and pedal, regrease and reassemble. Easy as that. 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

Beat up nagger
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 1:25 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Motorcycle: 81 Honda goldwing gl1100

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby Beat up nagger » Thu Jul 02, 2015 4:06 pm

Ok good. Ty that makes me feel a lot better.

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jw395
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 4:47 pm
Location: Paducah, KY
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby jw395 » Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:17 pm

I'm new to the forum. On my 82 I was experiencing the same issue. However waited to long to correct the problem. In doing so I wore out my pads and now have a pretty worn rear rotor. I thought it was the caliber sticking or after joining the forum have learned from some very experienced people that the rear master cylinder could be the problem. The tiny return hole "I mean tiny" gets plugged up and keeps the pressure applied to the brakes. With that said I'm looking at rebuilding the master cylinder and rear caliber. My question is, does anybody know if your able to "turn" or resurface the rotor? Man there high! What is the minimum thickness? Is it ok to put new pads on it the way it is? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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wingman12
Posts: 610
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2014 5:01 pm
Location: Land of Lincoln
Motorcycle: 1999 gl1500 se

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby wingman12 » Fri Jul 03, 2015 11:09 pm

Depending on how much damage to rotor, you could put on pads and go. I am not sure that you will even be able to find anyone that turns rotors anymore. Check this forum under for sale/ wanted. You can almost always find someone that is parting out a bike. Could get rotors at a better than OEM prices. The rear master cylinder is not that bad on the 82. I am assuming you are also going to rebuild the rear caliper? Flush the mud out of the line before putting back together.

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 17045
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jul 06, 2015 11:12 am

jw395 wrote:I'm new to the forum. On my 82 I was experiencing the same issue. However waited to long to correct the problem. In doing so I wore out my pads and now have a pretty worn rear rotor. I thought it was the caliber sticking or after joining the forum have learned from some very experienced people that the rear master cylinder could be the problem. The tiny return hole "I mean tiny" gets plugged up and keeps the pressure applied to the brakes. With that said I'm looking at rebuilding the master cylinder and rear caliber. My question is, does anybody know if your able to "turn" or resurface the rotor? Man there high! What is the minimum thickness? Is it ok to put new pads on it the way it is? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


If you push the brake pedal down and it sticks down, then the problem is the brake pedal pivot.

If you push the brake pedal down and it comes back up, but the brakes stay on, then it is the master cylinder return port.

Motorcycle rotors are much MUCH harder than automotive rotors, and are not really designed to be turned. For that reason, most automotive lathes are unable to turn motorcycle rotors. If your rotor is that far below specs, your best bet is to try to find a replacement - either used, or I think EBC might still make some aftermarket rotors.

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jw395
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 4:47 pm
Location: Paducah, KY
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby jw395 » Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:31 pm

Thank you for the reply WingAdmin. My brake pedal moves up and down freely. I'm leaning heavily to the master cylinder return port being stopped up. I plan to rebuild it as soon as the parts are here. With the help from you'r "how to video" on this forum, wich led to me joining I might add. Your instructions and pics are absolutely great! As the rotor, I'm gonna throw some new pads on and roll with it. I can slightly feel some deep cruves but there's still enough material left I believe. When it's time for a new rear tire I'll probably spring for a new rotor and grease everything up then. I am curious though if I should go ahead and rebuild the caliber while the brake system is apart. And if purchasing a new brake line, perhaps the braided stainless line, is necessary and worth the money spent? One last thing, in your opinion, what is the best brake pad out there for the money? Again thanks for sharing your knowledge and a great site for bikers. Jw

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 17045
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Rear brake issue.

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:58 am

jw395 wrote:Thank you for the reply WingAdmin. My brake pedal moves up and down freely. I'm leaning heavily to the master cylinder return port being stopped up. I plan to rebuild it as soon as the parts are here. With the help from you'r "how to video" on this forum, wich led to me joining I might add. Your instructions and pics are absolutely great! As the rotor, I'm gonna throw some new pads on and roll with it. I can slightly feel some deep cruves but there's still enough material left I believe. When it's time for a new rear tire I'll probably spring for a new rotor and grease everything up then. I am curious though if I should go ahead and rebuild the caliber while the brake system is apart. And if purchasing a new brake line, perhaps the braided stainless line, is necessary and worth the money spent? One last thing, in your opinion, what is the best brake pad out there for the money? Again thanks for sharing your knowledge and a great site for bikers. Jw


Wow, lots of questions there. :) Thanks for the kind words.

Rebuilding the caliper? Sure. You're rebuilding one half of the brake system, the other half is likely going to be in similar shape. If it is full of sludge and crud, you don't want that migrating up to the master cylinder to clog it again. Rebuilding the caliper will help it perform better, and you'll know it is in good shape, and won't fail/bind on you unexpectedly.

I'm said repeatedly that replacing the brake lines on my GL1100 with stainless braided brake lines was the single best upgrade I did to my bike. It turned the brakes from mushy and indistinct to razor sharp and powerful. It really made it feel like a new bike.

As for pads...I used EBC for a while as they were cheaper than OEM. However, it's false economy: the EBC pads wear out much faster than OEM, and produce a ton of brake dust which you have to clean regularly. So I now use nothing but OEM Honda pads on my bikes.




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