hot regulator


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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dumbdan
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:05 pm
Location: Escondido Ca. 92029
Motorcycle: 1982 GW1100 Interstate

hot regulator

Postby dumbdan » Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:30 am



I have a 1983 Aspencade and noticed the 12 v regulator is hot. I changed it with a good one and it is still hot and the current from the alternator is 15 amps on all three yellow leads. ( they have been soldered ) I removed the battery and put it on my home charger and it stayed at 14 amps for several hours so I replaced the battery and figured that was it, but not true. Is there a common place to look for a problem in this circuit? All the digital instruments work all the fuses are good. Thanks



indianakid
Posts: 122
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:28 pm
Location: long beach, ca
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100 I

Re: hot regulator

Postby indianakid » Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:23 am

the regulator will get hot. that is normal. the alternator is always putting out at full power by design (permanent magnets revolving around the stator). think of it like having a fixed displacement pump in a closed centered hydraulic system that is always pumping over the pressure relief valve. it will get hot!

that said how are you measuring the current in the yellow wires? clamp on ameter? also when charging the battery do you mean 14 "volts" as 14 amps is a lot of current when charging. are you having any other issue with the electrical system other than the heat from the regulator?

dumbdan
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:05 pm
Location: Escondido Ca. 92029
Motorcycle: 1982 GW1100 Interstate

Re: hot regulator

Postby dumbdan » Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:53 pm

I put an ammeter on the yellow wires and read 15 amps on the three wires plus they were hot. When I put the battery on my charger that is where I read 14 amps and that is a DV amp reading on the home charger. That is why I thought the battery was bad (which it is)
but the new battery did not resolve the heating issue with the yellow wires .

I figures as the battery charged up after starting the engine the current should go down unless there is a large drag on the system.

I will check another bike and see if the current is high on the other one that my friend has. Also I will get my hand on the regulator and check the heat of it.

Thanks
Dan

dumbdan
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:05 pm
Location: Escondido Ca. 92029
Motorcycle: 1982 GW1100 Interstate

Re: hot regulator

Postby dumbdan » Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:56 pm

The volts is 13.8 which seems correct. I do not find any other fault and have felt the fuses and none of them are hot.

I will have to dive into and trace the heat and see if a wire is shorting to the frame somewhere.

Thanks for the input.

Dan

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virgilmobile
Posts: 7646
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: hot regulator

Postby virgilmobile » Sun Sep 27, 2015 8:22 pm

My R/R module would reach 165° in 15 min of running.It does shunt excess power to ground and will get very warm as a normal function of its design.Remove the module and clean the surface where it mounts to the frame to help transfer some of the heat from the casting.
My battery would draw 15 amp right after starting the bike and taper down to 3-4 amp after 15 min of running..The charging system simply diverts the excess energy developed by the stator windings to ground by shorting out a part of the diode block.
This method of regulating will develop heat in the module and obviously will show as heat in the 3 yellow wires.15 amp flowing down those small wires has been a subject of debate..Most believe that Honda should have used a larger wire...Personally,I think the stator should have been made using a #10 wire but when a company is having them made for them,they have to go with the low bid price...Yes the wire that is used does fit the specs...but just barely...
Some will go as far as replacing the 3 yellow wires at the engine all the way to the module with a set of #10 stranded set...No plugs,hard soldered direct...




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