Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2015 10:24 am
Location: Rayland,Ohio
Motorcycle: "1982 GL1100A Aspencade"


Postby browntuna5647 » Sat Feb 06, 2016 10:21 am

I think from what I've experienced with the last Gold Wing I rebuilt , to the one currently I'm rebuilding they need to come up with a show called " Cobbling '. Both bikes are 82 Aspencade's, with the first one I took $42.00 worth of aftermarket junk plastic chrome to the scrap yard. Why do guys buy this stuff? These bikes are metric, we all know that, but in this one someone actually fabricated a rack under the trunk bag just to mount a light bar. Sounds like a fairly good idea, but first of all you lose the integrity of the original design by Honda; secondly they used 7/16" squared, what I call stove bolts, to put this together, wrong. When it came to the wiring, there were places where insulation was absent at least 12- 14 inches along it's run. Wrong. I did manage to put it all back to stock, and it looked 100% better. The one I'm currently doing is also an 82 Aspencade , but this one is worse. First thing was an aftermarket spin-on oil filter. Wrong. They leak. Underneath the engine was all wet. The oil filter drain bolt was not there, it was replaced with an aftermarket dip-stick fitting, that also leaks. I managed to obtain a stock filter housing from E-bay, but the oil drain bolt, I ordered from Partzilla , which calls it the oil check bolt and is 12 mm. The one I removed is 14 mm, and seems the front engine case has not been altered. The case has a nice finished area where the crush washer would seat with the flange of the bolt, so why the difference between 12 mm and 14 mm. Someone tell me I've got the wrong bolt. When you buy highway pegs you don't drill through the stock crash bars to mount them. Wrong. Luckily e-bay had a pair. The main concern I have is the ( 6x32 ) cap bolts that are supposed to be in the head from the carb intakes. The left side of the bike was OK. The right side has in the second from the rear an allen bolt in it, and the third position has a stud with two nuts on it, not metric, 1/2 inch nuts,(&(^$&*%&^(*)^&*. Yeah that's what I said. I did manage to remove the allen, and while removing the two nuts on the stud it first started to unthread, then it started to lean towards the rear of the bike and began to tighten. Not Good. When finally it did come out the thread of the bolt stud is smaller in diameter from the top down to about a 1/4 of an inch at the bottom where it is larger thread. Can someone tell me what in the world was going on here. And am I going to have to pull the head to repair this?

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Re: Cobbling

Postby dingdong » Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:53 am

*^&%$#! Previous Owner. Jerry Rigged. Mcgyvered. Cobbling. Don't feel to bad there are entire threads on here dedicated to previous owners and their handy work.
As to the threaded bolt hole in the head, if I read you correctly, you can repair with a Heli-coil repair kit without removing the head. Sounds like the PO used an exhaust manifold stud. Oh! You might want to check the headers for a missing stud. ;) Stuff happens.

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