No power in run position


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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RodL
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Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

No power in run position

Postby RodL » Thu Jun 09, 2016 5:28 am



I stopped to put gas in my 83 GL1100I yesterday afternoon and when I went to leave, I turned the key on and nothing. No oil, neutral light, or headlight. I have a battery meter down on the left side console and it showed good battery in the Acc. position, but when I moved it to Run, it dropped to zero.

So I called the tow company to get the bike home. While I was explaining to my girlfriend what happened, I turned the key on and had power again!

Now I am leary of taking the bike anywhere until I find out what might have been the cause.

Any ideas??


1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

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dingdong
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Re: No power in run position

Postby dingdong » Thu Jun 09, 2016 6:25 am

If you still have the dogbone fuse that could be the cause. They can develop cracks that are intermittent. Could also be the ignition switch is bad.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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ekvh
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Re: No power in run position

Postby ekvh » Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:21 am

Yep, look closely, they can appear to be good, or they can get corroded under the screw heads.

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RodL
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1994 VT1100C

Re: No power in run position

Postby RodL » Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:41 am

OK, I give, what is the dogbone fuse and where does it hide??

Rod
1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: No power in run position

Postby RBGERSON » Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:15 am

The dog bone is inside the solenoid which lives next to the battery rear side..there is a little lid that swings swings down. I'd replace it with a regular 30 amp blade fuse like but buy one with the eyelits already attached.this whether it's OK or not..easy job two screws off dog bone off; new fuse eyelits in place put screws back in..cut little holes in the cover so you can still lock it in place..the fuse will hang outside the cover.



But it could be your ignition switch is worn..you can replace the whole thing aftermarkets are available about $40 or you rebuild them with a little solder on the contact points see the pic. Not a hard job..just take apart carefully and note how it goes back together. If it happens again try wiggling the key if that works mostly the switch is worn..

HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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RodL
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Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

Re: No power in run position

Postby RodL » Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:35 am

Does that dogbone fuse also control the power to the ACC? When I put the ket in that position, all my lights and radio worked just fine and my voltmeter that is connected in the power line shows voltage, in the run it doesn't.
1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

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virgilmobile
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Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Jun 09, 2016 11:42 am

Yes it does but remember that the ACC is very low power use.When you turn the key to ON there's a 12 amp draw.This is when a bad fuse can fail.

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RodL
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1994 VT1100C

Re: No power in run position

Postby RodL » Thu Jun 09, 2016 11:51 am

Ahh ok, I will have to check it out tonight if I have time.

Rod
1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

indianakid
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Re: No power in run position

Postby indianakid » Thu Jun 09, 2016 1:53 pm

per virgilmobile............

"When you turn the key to ON there's a 12 amp draw."

What is using that much power ??????????????????

OHM's Law.....................P (watts) = V (volts) X I (amps)

you stated there is a 12 amp draw.

The system is 12 volts.

Therefore something is using 144 watts !!!!!!!!!!! What is it ???????

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virgilmobile
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Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Jun 09, 2016 2:31 pm

indianakid wrote:per virgilmobile............

"When you turn the key to ON there's a 12 amp draw."

What is using that much power ??????????????????

OHM's Law.....................P (watts) = V (volts) X I (amps)

you stated there is a 12 amp draw.

The system is 12 volts.

Therefore something is using 144 watts !!!!!!!!!!! What is it ???????


With the key in the on position,all the lights are on..including the headlight and the ignition system.They all draw power through the main 30 amp fuse right from the battery.
Start adding up every marker light,tail lamp,headlight,radio and ignition system and you'll find that they add up to a significant amount.
Should the dogbone fuse be cracked,it may pass enough power to get the ACC to run but fail under a full load.
Obviously a poor contact in the ignition switch would have the same results but the fuse Is the easiest to eliminate as the cause and should be tended to anyways as a preventive measure.

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SteveB123
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Re: No power in run position

Postby SteveB123 » Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:48 am

Any follow up on this?
I have regular volts @ "off", and "accessory", and insane dropping (5V!) voltage when switched to run. Obviously, I'm not going anywhere.
Did some diagnosis and it's the red system wire at the solenoid, (that goes to the ignition switch, and then, obviously, beyond) that causes the issue. All fuses fine.

Change the switch, or continue searching past it?

thanks.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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RodL
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1994 VT1100C

Re: No power in run position

Postby RodL » Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:21 am

I did swap out the dogbone fuse for an in-line one just to be on the safe side. I get nervous when things fix themselves..
1983 GL1100 Interstate
1994 VT1100C

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virgilmobile
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Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:35 am

SteveB123 wrote:Any follow up on this?
I have regular volts @ "off", and "accessory", and insane dropping (5V!) voltage when switched to run. Obviously, I'm not going anywhere.
Did some diagnosis and it's the red system wire at the solenoid, (that goes to the ignition switch, and then, obviously, beyond) that causes the issue. All fuses fine.

Change the switch, or continue searching past it?

thanks.


Your loss of volts.where are you measuring this.?
The red wire on the solenoid?
Do both red wires drop?
Does the battery post voltage drop?

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SteveB123
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Re: No power in run position

Postby SteveB123 » Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:42 am

I have a voltmeter installed in the dash, connection right across the battery terminals.
Yes, the red wire at the solenoid drops the voltage (like a short...but I guess not a dead short), no issue with the red/yellow wire.

I just want to avoid changing out the ignition switch IF it isn't the problem, like if it's something downstream that might cause this as well.

I'll probably disconnect the start switch (somewhere, any thoughts where the connector is?) to rule it out before I order an ignition switch.

cheers.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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virgilmobile
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Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jul 25, 2016 12:19 pm

Does your volt meter across the battery drop or stay up?
At the starter solenoid,where the 2 red wires connect,there is a shorting bar in the bottom of the plug.This connects both red wires together.This shorting bar feeds from the dog bone fuse.
If one red wire keeps power with the key on and the other one does not,suspect a bad connection in the plug.
One wire feeds the ignition switch and the other feeds the 2 wires at the regulator.
One can permanently bypass this configuration by removing both red red wires and bonding them to a large (30 amp) and connecting it direct to the battery post or solenoid battery connection.

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SteveB123
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Re: No power in run position

Postby SteveB123 » Mon Jul 25, 2016 4:30 pm

virgilmobile wrote:Does your volt meter across the battery drop or stay up?
Yes, as above.
At the starter solenoid,where the 2 red wires connect,there is a shorting bar in the bottom of the plug.This connects both red wires together.This shorting bar feeds from the dog bone fuse.
If one red wire keeps power with the key on and the other one does not,suspect a bad connection in the plug.
One wire feeds the ignition switch and the other feeds the 2 wires at the regulator.
One can permanently bypass this configuration by removing both red red wires and bonding them to a large (30 amp) and connecting it direct to the battery post or solenoid battery connection.


Same voltage drop issue with solenoid in the circuit as with it out. Solenoid not the issue.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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virgilmobile
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Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jul 25, 2016 5:28 pm

This schematic may help.Both red wires should have battery on them.Whatever it is.

jjunkin1
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Re: No power in run position

Postby jjunkin1 » Mon Jul 25, 2016 8:22 pm

I had similar issue about a month ago. Sporadically no power to cluster or anything basically. Play with your ignition switch with the key in the run position try to turn it forward and back almost to the point it rolls to the next click. Mine had a sweet spot where it would work. Got tried of messing with it and just poped a new one in.
They say you can do it with the faring on but I could not. Overall didn't take too long

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SteveB123
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Re: No power in run position

Postby SteveB123 » Sat Jul 30, 2016 4:28 pm

*sigh*

Ignition switch out (pretty easy if you pull the windshield, pull the weight, loosen and move the weight braces out of the way, remove cluster nuts, connections and cluster, and then, tah-Dah!)

Ignition switch apart. Well, it all looks OK, I guess, nothing loose, or missing. Nuts.
Prior to removal, I disconnected the right side handle bar switch and tried again. BIG voltage drop on "ON", same as before, so no weird short in there. Nuts.
Check ignition switch connector, battery voltage at the red/yellow wire, so no pinched wire between it and the solenoid. Nuts.

I see lots of 80-81 switches, even just the electrical end of them, new, and cheap, EBay, and Amazon. VERY few for 82's, but boy, they looks the same.
Any thoughts?
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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SteveB123
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Re: No power in run position

Postby SteveB123 » Sat Jul 30, 2016 4:30 pm

virgilmobile wrote:This schematic may help.Both red wires should have battery on them.Whatever it is.
Screenshot_2016-07-25-17-09-48.png


They do.
Voltage drops like a stone when switched to "ON".
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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virgilmobile
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84 GL 1200 I

Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Sat Jul 30, 2016 9:47 pm

Both red wires drop volts when the key is off and the battery volts stay up OK?
The only thing in-between is the fuse.

jjunkin1
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Re: No power in run position

Postby jjunkin1 » Mon Aug 01, 2016 7:29 pm

I have the one I pulled out of my 81 I. I can send picks to you and see if it would match the 83. Hell I will ship it to you want it. Failed sporadically so i swapped it out.

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SteveB123
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Re: No power in run position

Postby SteveB123 » Tue Aug 02, 2016 10:54 am

virgilmobile wrote:Both red wires drop volts when the key is off and the battery volts stay up OK?
The only thing in-between is the fuse.


Both red wires are connected to the battery at all times, so they have battery voltage, by definition.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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virgilmobile
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Re: No power in run position

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Aug 02, 2016 11:32 am

SteveB123 wrote:
virgilmobile wrote:Both red wires drop volts when the key is off and the battery volts stay up OK?
The only thing in-between is the fuse.


Both red wires are connected to the battery at all times, so they have battery voltage, by definition.


Almost...They should have battery volts all the time...however each red wire has to conduct through a crimp connection,mechanically attached to a blade terminal...then through 2 screws that hold the dog bone fuse firmly against the contact plate ....then it connects under the crimped battery positive cable on the solenoid and finally another crimped connection to the battery post...There's plenty of possible connections that can fail.
Not even including the battery ground connections either




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