gas cap


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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davekrovetz
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gas cap

Postby davekrovetz » Mon Aug 16, 2010 1:46 pm



I have a 1982 GL1100 Standard. Been sitting many months before I bought it. Put in new timing belts, fresh oil and filter, new plugs. Started and ran after this work, did not run consistently well on the #1 cylinder (problem existed prior to work). This I figured from the plug being really wet and that side having somewhat cooler exhaust. I filled up the tank, added some Sea Foam - and it at first it ran better - then worse. 10 miles total riding. Got home, right pipe has a little pale bluish smoke, appeared to have oil on exhaust header below #1, idle is rough, then dies out unless I hold the throttle. Pulled valve cover, cleaned gasket, cleaned, reassembled. "Oil" on header (and smoke as it burned) appeared again when I restarted bike, but closer inspection makes me think this is a mix of oil and gas - smell especially. It drips off of the outer exhaust flange bolt to the floor. I can't see a path above this point. When I remove the gas cap, there is a pressure build-up in the tank.

Can someone explain the gas drip? Out of the flange itself?
Is this gas tank pressure wrong?
Could this pressure force gas to flood-out a carb/cylinder?
Would this pressure/ flooding make me use a LOT of extra gas in 10 miles, I am guessing <20 mpg?
Should I look at the oil - could the gas get forced there by tank pressure?
Are there NAPA caps or others to use here?
Time to suck it up and remove the carbs (use Pistol Pete's services here)?

Dave



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RBGERSON
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Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: gas cap

Postby RBGERSON » Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:21 am

Boy..I think I got it..several possibilities..floats leaking and letting gas into your oil as it fills the cylinders while sitting, so oil and gas leaking on to pipes..you can fix the leak of the valves covers with a coating of gasket sealant..maybe if not new gasket is in order. Gas leaking into oil bigger problem..requires pulling carbs and installing new float needles..OEM and they aren't cheap and while you are at it rebuilding the carbs...cleaning jets and new o rings all around..IMHO..if leaking from exhaust flange you need new gasket in the exhaust port..stock item..drop pipes and put one in..copper crush washer basically.

Gas tank whoosh maybe be normal..pressure build in summer heat if whooshing out if in not right clogged vent in gas cap..soak it cleaner or boil it in water to open the vent..some just drill a small hole top to bottom.

Pistol Pete is one of the best rebuilders but not hard to do it yourself..several good how's on other sites and here too I think.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

davekrovetz
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:09 am
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Re: gas cap

Postby davekrovetz » Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:52 am

Thanks. I put in clean oil but will not run the bike until the carb problem is fixed. I think that I must remove the carbs as a set at a minimum. Then I can decide whether to open them myself or send off. Does this seem like a good approach?

Also - because the tank looks like some PO sealed it, I think it can stay in place - again, do you agree?

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RBGERSON
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Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: gas cap

Postby RBGERSON » Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:43 am

Yes they come out as a set. yes you can pull and look at the bowls. But cleaning is a choice very dirty VS sort of still requires same procedures..pull all jets and clean, replace all rubber, reset floats, replace float needles if they leak. If you trust the tank leave it ..but that is usually the source of issues if it hasn't been cleaned and /or sealed properly.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

davekrovetz
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:09 am
Motorcycle: none presently

Re: gas cap

Postby davekrovetz » Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:19 am

With 2 days of vacation left, I pulled the tank this morning. Probably could have left it and gotten away with it, but I don't trust the sealing the PO did. Looks to me like having the tank removed will let me put the carb set back in a lot easier. So that is a plus. And of course, found other wiring things to square away. Also will read up on the spline lube and service the splines before putting the wheel back.

goldtr6c
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Location: Hitchcock, Tx
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1982 GL1100 STD
1976 GL1000 "800lb Canary"

Re: gas cap

Postby goldtr6c » Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:59 am

Should you pull the carbs, be sure to unscrew the float needle seats and clean the little plastic screens under them. A lot of folks don't know about these screens but they are of a very fine mesh. As they get clogged with the rust that made it past the main filter the fuel flow will get more restricted and the engine will lean out then even missfire on that cylinder. Those who ride the hill country will the most affected.

davekrovetz
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Re: gas cap

Postby davekrovetz » Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:23 pm

Okay - tank is pulled - did not look bad except that it was sealed with Kreme. I will replace it with a clean and properly sealed tank, too much work not to do this extra step. While the bike is so far apart, i have access to a lot else. It appears that the stator was replaced - rear coiver is really clean and the 3-prong plug coming from it was spliced back in. Would folks recommend that I cut the plug out and solder these three wires? There is a second plug in that area, smaller, don't know what it connects to.

leanjoe
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 4:15 pm
Location: Henderson, Nv
Motorcycle: 82 GL1100a Aspencade

Re: gas cap

Postby leanjoe » Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:01 am

thats the pulse generator harness plug. Lots of guys solder em( stator plug that is),more of a problem on the 70's bikes I think. I had a 75 and soldered mine,although there wasn't any problem with it. On this one,I just cleaned the connections up real good and made sure they are tight.

davekrovetz
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:09 am
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Re: gas cap

Postby davekrovetz » Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:15 am

I think that is what I will do - clean up the connectors and leave it alone. Don't want to fix something that is not broken!

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MSGT-R
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Motorcycle: 13 F6B
81 GL1100 (gone)

Re: gas cap

Postby MSGT-R » Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:36 pm

A BIG note about re-installing that wheel:

When putting the rear assembly back together again, tighten the driveshaft tube nuts last. There was a technical service bulletin for the 82-86 Magna series that uses the same set-up that involved driven splines in the wheel being chewed up after a tire change, and some complaints of strange sounds coming from the differential. The remedy (in addition to packing the area with graphite grease) was to mount the wheel, axle shaft, shocks and shaft tube hardware finger tight, and to torque the axle shaft nut first (while periodically rotating the wheel), then tighen down all the rest. The driven splines will now be seated without binding.

As for the gas cap, you can get a new one if you can still find it, but you can follow the suggestions to save the one you have. Too much tank pressure will force gas levels in the carbs higher than the float arm can shut them off, making the carburetor overflow down into the cylinder (and into the crank case), especially into the left cylinders when the bike is left on the side stand. They smoke upon start up for the same reason, so put it on the center stand when you're done riding for the day.

The three-wire stator problem applies to all Hondas throughout the 80s, and certainly all early Goldwings. Cleaning the plug won't last long. Replacing it won't last long either. If you were to touch that connector immediately after a ride, you would burn your fingers!

If you pull the carburetor bank for cleaning, pay close attention to the jets; they are easily clogged after long periods of inactivity. Drain the carbs if you're finished riding it for the season after putting Sta-Bil in your gas to keep it from going bad.


Don't spook the road sheep.


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