Starter Relay gone bad


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Jonnygrey
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:01 pm
Location: Andover, New Jersey
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade

Starter Relay gone bad

Postby Jonnygrey » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:24 pm



Recently bought an 82 Aspencade. Went to get spare keys cut and when I came out of the locksmith bike wouldn't start. Just heard a click when pushed the starter button. I luckily got a passerby to push me so I got it running. I bought a new relay from Amazon. It stated it would fit my bike. Installed tonight and nothing. Not even a click. It came with a 20 amp fuse. As soon as I tried to start it the fuse blew. I inserted a 30 amp and same thing. Blew the fuse and nothing. Put the old one back on and heard the same click. Did I get the wrong relay? I tried to save some $$$$ but I guess you get what you pay for. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty sure it's the relay so I started with replacing that.



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RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby RBGERSON » Wed Oct 12, 2016 7:22 am

Some of the aftermarket relay are wired differently so you can hook them up like the old one. Is the battery good? try to old one but use a heavy screw driver to short across the terminals it shoudl start her. HArd to say anything about the new relay as you haven't posted which one one you got.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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roadwanderer2
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:03 am
Location: sweetwater, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100A aspencade, previously owned, 1981 honda GL500i silverwing interstate, 1974 yamaha xs400, 1974 Honda cb450 twin cam, 1983 honda vt30, 1982 honda 700 shadow, 1972 cb750four, and my first bike, a brand new 1982 honda CM400e. and a new to me 1986 GL1200 aspencade SEi
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Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby roadwanderer2 » Wed Oct 12, 2016 11:35 am

i've had that problem with new relays too. come to find out that someone in here told me that some of them that you get off of eBay are "mirror image" parts. you might try reversing the 4 prong connector that goes onto the top of the switch. you might have to cut the clip that holds it in place on the connector so you can reverse it so it seats all the way down onto the switch for good contact.

stuart.

Jonnygrey
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:01 pm
Location: Andover, New Jersey
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade

Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby Jonnygrey » Wed Oct 12, 2016 7:51 pm

So I tried the screw driver on the starter relay and nothing. Hooked up jumpers cables to a marine battery a d tried testing the starter. Nothing. So I commenced to removing the starter. Got the cable off the post no problem. First bolt out, the upper bolt of the two out with no issue. Second and only bolt left snapped off. Frustrating to say the least. Any one run into this problem before? Easiest way to get what's left of the bolt out? There is a little bit of the bolt left but I couldn't get a good bite on it with Vise Grips and there isn't a lot of room to work in that area. I need some help here getting the rest of the bolt out. Please let me know what you would try please.

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roadwanderer2
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:03 am
Location: sweetwater, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100A aspencade, previously owned, 1981 honda GL500i silverwing interstate, 1974 yamaha xs400, 1974 Honda cb450 twin cam, 1983 honda vt30, 1982 honda 700 shadow, 1972 cb750four, and my first bike, a brand new 1982 honda CM400e. and a new to me 1986 GL1200 aspencade SEi
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Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby roadwanderer2 » Wed Oct 12, 2016 8:31 pm

this might seem like a lot of work, but it will make getting to the starter and the bolt easier in the long run..........if your bike has lower fairing panels and engine case guards, you'll have to remove them first, then scribe a line across the shifter lever with a file so you know exactly where it belongs and remove it, if your shifter shaft seal is leaking, now would be a good time to replace it.

loosen the right and left front exhaust pipes pulling both of the front exhaust pipes down, remove the left rear inner most manifold stud, pull the starter off, spray the heck out of whats left of the bolt with some PB blaster, let it soak over night and tomorrow try to grab it with a pair of needle nose vise grips to back it out. if that doesn't work, you can try to use a "reverse drill bit" or an "ez out". if nothing works then your only other recourse is to center punch whats still there and drill the bolt and re-tap the casing. i believe its a 8 or a 6 mm x 1.25 thread. be careful, the engine casing is aluminum, don't drill in too deep or you'll go thru it to the inside and could possible have an oil leak. let the drill bit do the work, you should be able to "feel" it bottom out inside the casing. if you have a tap and die set you can use the thread gauge tool and one of the dies to know what size and pitch it is. the other bolt is the same size diameter and pitch.

did you try reversing the 4 prong solenoid connector before you tried to remove the starter?

stuart.

Jonnygrey
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:01 pm
Location: Andover, New Jersey
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade

Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby Jonnygrey » Sat Oct 15, 2016 4:16 pm

Removed the Engine guards. Unbolted the exhaust, both sides and dropped the pipes to get better access. Removed the floorboards and shifter. Still have to work on that darn bolt. Tried the other night but dinner called and I was hungry. I am going to try the vice grips again. If no luck then going to file a notch across the broken bolt and see if a screwdriver will get the bolt out.

More questions:
When putting the new starter in I should grease the opening with high temp grease?
Is there any other prep that needs to be done?
It looks like a piece inside the moter that the starter goes into is movable. I moved it around when cleaning around the opening. Is that Normal?
When involving the exhaust two of the studs came out with the bolts. I want to remove the bolts before putting the studs back in and replace the bolts. Best way to do that?
Some bolts had lock washers, some didn't. Is that Normal and when putting it back together use lock washers on all 8 bolts?
Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it. This forum makes life a lot easier when owning and working on an old Wing.

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roadwanderer2
Posts: 4113
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:03 am
Location: sweetwater, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100A aspencade, previously owned, 1981 honda GL500i silverwing interstate, 1974 yamaha xs400, 1974 Honda cb450 twin cam, 1983 honda vt30, 1982 honda 700 shadow, 1972 cb750four, and my first bike, a brand new 1982 honda CM400e. and a new to me 1986 GL1200 aspencade SEi
Contact:

Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Oct 15, 2016 5:44 pm

well, so far so good. you got most of everything out of your way. if you can use some PB Blaster, spray the bolt trying to get some of the Blaster into the threads of the bolt and let it soak in over night. you could carefully lean the bike over onto its right side propping it up with maybe a cinder block or a 4 x 4 piece of wood under the frame so it doesn't fall over, that might help get the Blaster down inside the bolt threads. if you have a small drummel or angle grinder you might be able to scribe a small slot into the remains of the bolt. how much is left of the bolt to get to.

if you have enough leingth of the broken stud sticking out, it might be possible to use this.....http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... t+breakers to grab onto the stud to turn it out.

when installing the new starter, you can simply put some grease, any type will do around the rubber "O" ring so it slides easier into the engine casing. that piece moving inside the casing is the starter gear which the starter chain goes over and around on. its normal for it to move just a little bit. i suggest you dont try turning the motor until the stater is in place. as i did, you can reuse the same studs and stud nuts, or replace them with new ones, but replace the lock washers when reinstalling all of them.

keep us updated with your progress.

stuart.

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Fabricator1978
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Location: North Georgia, USA
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

1974 CB750k

Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby Fabricator1978 » Thu Oct 20, 2016 3:36 am

Sorry to hear of the trouble! As a machinist, I have weekly dealings with broken bolts; several local auto repair shops send folks to us weekly for removal. I loathe "easy out" and equivalent products, as customers frequently bring parts with these troublesome "tools" snapped off and I can rarely offer them a cost-effective repair. Here is what we do; is an odd but effective method:

1) Find a PLAIN/in-plated steel nut (get several) that slips over the remaining broken section and carefully weld the two together; a few phone calls to chaps with mobile welding equipment will work if you do not have a welder. Explain your issue and offer cash to the one that treats your problem with concern. It sounds difficult, but for a skilled tradesman, it is easy even with classic "stick" welding equipment.

2) Apply penetrant to the area after welding and let it cool until it can be easily handled (5-10 min). Tap the end of the welded nut INTO the aluminum case several times with a sharp blow (not hard as in 3lb hammer but sharp authoritative taps from a small hammer); this breaks up the galvanic corrosion common between zinc plated bolts and aluminum. Spray more penetrant and carefully turn the bolt to remove it; if it refuses to move, try turning it clockwise a fraction of a turn and continue tapping and dripping penetrant, and worrying it clockwise and counterclockwise until it takes adequate penetrant to begin turning freely in the correct direction.

Best wishes!

Fabricator1978
--If we cannot trust people with freedom, how then can they be trusted with power?--

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roadwanderer2
Posts: 4113
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:03 am
Location: sweetwater, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100A aspencade, previously owned, 1981 honda GL500i silverwing interstate, 1974 yamaha xs400, 1974 Honda cb450 twin cam, 1983 honda vt30, 1982 honda 700 shadow, 1972 cb750four, and my first bike, a brand new 1982 honda CM400e. and a new to me 1986 GL1200 aspencade SEi
Contact:

Re: Starter Relay gone bad

Postby roadwanderer2 » Thu Oct 20, 2016 6:42 am

Fabricator1978 wrote:Sorry to hear of the trouble! As a machinist, I have weekly dealings with broken bolts; several local auto repair shops send folks to us weekly for removal. I loathe "easy out" and equivalent products, as customers frequently bring parts with these troublesome "tools" snapped off and I can rarely offer them a cost-effective repair. Here is what we do; is an odd but effective method:

1) Find a PLAIN/in-plated steel nut (get several) that slips over the remaining broken section and carefully weld the two together; a few phone calls to chaps with mobile welding equipment will work if you do not have a welder. Explain your issue and offer cash to the one that treats your problem with concern. It sounds difficult, but for a skilled tradesman, it is easy even with classic "stick" welding equipment.

2) Apply penetrant to the area after welding and let it cool until it can be easily handled (5-10 min). Tap the end of the welded nut INTO the aluminum case several times with a sharp blow (not hard as in 3lb hammer but sharp authoritative taps from a small hammer); this breaks up the galvanic corrosion common between zinc plated bolts and aluminum. Spray more penetrant and carefully turn the bolt to remove it; if it refuses to move, try turning it clockwise a fraction of a turn and continue tapping and dripping penetrant, and worrying it clockwise and counterclockwise until it takes adequate penetrant to begin turning freely in the correct direction.

Best wishes!

Fabricator1978


yes, that too would work providing theres enough of the broken stud/bolt left to run a nut onto it.

stuart.




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