idle screw adjustment


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mud/dauber
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:19 pm
Location: Independence, Kans
Motorcycle: 1980 Honda GL1100 standard

idle screw adjustment

Post by mud/dauber » Sun Aug 13, 2017 1:33 pm



I thought I did a fine job cleaning and rebuilding the carbs on my 1980 GL1100 but after reinstalling them I had to turn the idle adjustment screw completely in and I still have to hold the throttle open slightly to maintain an idle around 950 rpm. Initially thought it was the main return spring not set right but have since fixed that; had it anchored in the wrong place, but still it is not right. If I let the throttle relax the engine drops and dies.



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Hoosier Jack
Posts: 324
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:21 am
Location: Terre Haute, IN
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by Hoosier Jack » Sun Aug 13, 2017 8:39 pm

Have you tried to synchronize them yet? Will idle and run so much better.

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RBGERSON
Posts: 2986
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by RBGERSON » Mon Aug 14, 2017 8:05 am

Did yoiu pull the idle jets and clean them completely??? if not that's probably your problem. Note idle screws are gas not air screws so in all the way stops gas flow at idle.




HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

mud/dauber
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:19 pm
Location: Independence, Kans
Motorcycle: 1980 Honda GL1100 standard

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by mud/dauber » Mon Aug 14, 2017 11:02 am

All four fuel mix screws (located right next to float bowls and just behind or under intake manifolds) are cleaned and out 1.5 turns. That is a question in itself as to how much more to turn out (manual says to start at 1 1/4).

Using a manometer, I have synchronized 1,2,and matched them to 3 (factory set and non-synchronizable) but carb #4 has at most, half the vacuum as the others and turning the screw to ccw or cw several turns is not making much difference.

The idle screw is turned in as far as it will go and now comes to rest at the stop on carb body but only just and idle is still too low to maintain running.

Keep the inputs coming. We're going to get this solved.

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RBGERSON
Posts: 2986
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by RBGERSON » Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:04 am

First you have to synch 4 to 2 and then 1 to 3 and THEN 2/4 to 1/3.. pull the idle screw all the way out., spring, washer and o ring all there?? .is the tip in good condition or is it missing if missing it could have broken off in the carb body if so you're screwed..need a new carb body. Some have tried to tap/drill broken tips out but at best 10% chance you could do it w/o screwing up the hole.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

mud/dauber
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:19 pm
Location: Independence, Kans
Motorcycle: 1980 Honda GL1100 standard

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by mud/dauber » Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:10 am

Just to confirm we are talking about the same thing, you are referring to the pilot screws which do have spring and washer and o-ring (amazingly small) located as i described in earlier post; laterally to the bowls. Currently screwed out from seated position by 1 1/2 turns. I re-read the section in the manual last night and will attempt to increase the idle by increasing the richness. If i set the throttle at 1000 rpm, then screw out the pilot screws 1/2 turn at a time, I'm supposed to hear an increase in the idle. If that works, then i will proceed to next steps. Note: when throttle is set at 1000 rpm, the actual idle adjusting screw is not rested against the stop even though it is screwed all the way in. One might think: "the idle screw is too short; use a longer one!" but it was right before I pulled everything apart to rebuild it. I am missing something, done something incorrectly and fear I should just pull the whole bank and re-look at it. Also questioning if adjusting the cables (push or pull)(at the top or bottom) could have an affect.
As always, thanks for your input and helpful advice.
MD

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RBGERSON
Posts: 2986
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by RBGERSON » Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:13 am

The idle screws originally had a cap on them to prevent over adjusting..but most have taken the caps off..so that's why it sticks up..did yoiu pull the screw out and look at the tip..if it's broken off and stuck in the carb body screwing it in/out doesn't do anything
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

mud/dauber
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:19 pm
Location: Independence, Kans
Motorcycle: 1980 Honda GL1100 standard

Re: idle screw adjustment

Post by mud/dauber » Wed Aug 16, 2017 12:18 pm

Thanks RBGERSON:
I did check the tips when I disassembled and cleaned everything; all are good. If I get to the point of pulling the carb bank again and rechecking everything, I'll double check them and the needles (and everything else). Might need to do that anyway for the sake of the cooling system. In all this tinkering and testing I've been doing, not once has the radiator fan turned on. Maybe the engine has not run long enough to get hot enough or maybe the thermostat, fan switch, or sender are in question. Is it better to change them out anyway or wait till I ride it around to the point that I think it should have turned on? Needle on the temp gauge has yet to move from it's rested position. Remember, this was a barn find that I have rebuilt. We don't know what caused it to be parked in the barn in the first place.

ps. Didn't remove the caps but did file down the restricting tabs just enough ;)



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