1980 gl1100


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:21 am



HELP!! First, I am not a mechanic. But I am trying. I bought this bike a week ago, it has been sitting for xxx number of years...? Got it started last night with some starter fluid in the intake but stalled right out, blew tons of smoke. I have cleaned the gas, changed the oil, new plugs...my guess is carbs, but not sure. Can anyone help me? Thank you. BTW, this website is very cool.



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keithg64
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Location: Geneseo, IL
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 Pearl Coranado Blue

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby keithg64 » Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:48 pm

Take the fuel line off of the pump going to the carbs and try starting the bike to see if fuel is coming out of pump. The fuel pump may need primed, take the same hose from the pump that goes to the carb and suck on the hose till fuel comes out through the pump. Becareful if you have never done this before or if you have never sifoned gas before. Suck on the hose gently because fuel will come out.
This way you know the carbs are getting fuel.
It's not what you buy, it's what you build.

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:36 pm

I removed the line and gas came right out. it appears gas is moving through the pump. I do believe it is a fuel issue, I replaced fuel filter and lines today, still wont stay running. One thing I should mention is when I changed the oil it appeared to be full of gas, definitely not just oil. Again, I can start with stater fluid, but once that burns off it shuts down. Confused.

luckyus7
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:44 pm

It is so close to starting! Just not sure what is keeping it from happening....? I think it is something simple, but inexperience is holding me up. Maybe there is still some bad gas in there?

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WingAdmin
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:17 pm

If the crankcase was full of gas, then (at least one) carburetor float is stuck open. You can try giving the carbs a sharp rap with the end of a screwdriver handle, but if it's sat that long, and it's stuck like that, you're likely looking at a carb rebuild/cleaning. You can try a fresh tank of gas mixed with a whole can of Seafoam, but I kind of suspect you're going to need a bit more than that to clean them up.

Oh, you should also change your oil if it's full of gas, obviously. :)

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keithg64
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Location: Geneseo, IL
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 Pearl Coranado Blue

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby keithg64 » Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:10 pm

Maybe pull the plugs out and see if they are wet, if they are spray them with the starting fluid to dry them out and try again. If the plugs are soaked they will not have a good spark. If they are not wet fuel may not be getting to cylinders.
It's not what you buy, it's what you build.

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RBGERSON
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Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby RBGERSON » Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:03 am

Just go for it..you need to clean if not totally rebuild your carbs..there are some very good how to's on NGW site with pics and step by step instructions..it's not hard but it is tedious. The hardest part is getting the carbs out of the frame..trust me they will come out if you tilt and wiggle them just right.

read here http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=2952

rebuild kits run from $49 to $200 depending whose you buy..lots of opinions on what's best or needed.. Randakk's are consider the best for all the rubber stuff and his kit is complete(200)..for all gaskets and pumps..but no metal parts you are expected to clean them yourself..other cheaper kits have less of the rubber stuff but include all the jets.

Look here http://www.randakks.com/Master%20Price%20Catalog.htm also look around his site the best info on Gl's is found here IMO.

cheap source..on eBay sportsforless good seller for kits for $49 or so.

Ps getting the throttle cables of the bell housing is tough too..small hands and attaching from the top down through the frame once the false tank is off..helps.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

goldtr6c
Posts: 147
Joined: Tue May 11, 2010 11:17 am
Location: Hitchcock, Tx
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1982 GL1100 STD
1976 GL1000 "800lb Canary"

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby goldtr6c » Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:16 am

Be careful about using starting fluid with ether in it. You can do some dammage to the the engine. I recomend using carb cleaner or WD40 instead. You can also go down to the auto parts store and get some "GM" plastic vaccuum hose to use as an extention to the little red plastic straw on your can. This way you can give each carb a direct shot and not have to poke your hand and the can down the intake where it can be subject to a flaming spitback.

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:33 pm

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. I will dig into the carbs starting tomorrow, this could be interesting. I will be posting many more questions, I'm sure, as I attempt this renovation. Please don't hesitate to make ANY suggestions that could help me with this project.....related or unrelated to the carb situation. Thanks again!!!

cbach1981
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:03 pm
Location: Salem, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I Interstate

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby cbach1981 » Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:04 pm

I recommend a service manual. Will help with pretty much anything. I have posted a downloadable .pdf of the GL1100 shop manual. Click the link below. Takes you to my skydrive account. Click GL1100 folder and you can download the files there. Good luck. Pulled my carbs this afternoon due to one idle jet being plugged.

http://cid-978916b005999849.skydrive.li ... 999849!109
    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape!

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RBGERSON
Posts: 2612
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby RBGERSON » Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:53 am

Change the timing belts before you try to run it..if a belt breaks you will mostly likely bend a valve or two or even hole a piston then the engine is toast..$$$$ wise. Check NGW site there is a very good how to by Octane same guy who did the carb how to.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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Missourimike
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Location: Springfield, Missouri
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000
1979 GL1000
1981 GL 1100
1962 150 Dream
1973 750 Norton
1983 CX650C #1
1983 CX650C #2

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby Missourimike » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:47 pm

What eveyone else has said. Just don't tear into those carbs without knowing what you are doing, good kit or none. You will spend lots of time and money and still be wondering why the bike still doesn't run! If you use the Honda Manual, there is a mistake in the "how-to" adjust the floats. The mm setting for the floats on an 1100 are not the same as on a 1000, so don't guess at anything or think what works for one will do all. 9 out of 10 fellows I've talked to, that have "rebuilt" Wing carbs , never knew there were very tiny screens under the float needles! Then you need to balance the carbs with a vacuum gauge to tell which is not right and/or work at optimum, like they were designed for.
Not trying to scare you off this project, just letting you know that Wings are complicated to the uninformed and sophisticated to the knowledgeable mechanic. Also...the posts that hang the floats can be easily broken!!

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:18 am

Thanks again to all who helped me, it is great to see there are good people still left in this world. Just as an update, I have decided to hire out to an out of work motorcycle mechanic to handle the carbs (and other complicated issues). I think this would be the most efficient way to get this beautiful bike road worthy. Cheers!

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:23 pm

Here is the latest update....Unfortunately, after cleaning the carbs we check compression and found the left side was low, one was at 150 and the other was at 120 (the right side both were 170). The tech working on the bike said the engine needed overhaul....ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???? please.

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thrasherg
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Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby thrasherg » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:10 pm

Even with 120, the engine should run.. I really don't think the low compression is your problem. I suspect the rings may have stuck and the compression will come back up after a little bit of use. I would concentrate on finding why the engine is not running before spending a lot of cash on an engine rebuild. If the compression is over 90PSI the engine will run, your value of 120 may be low compared to the other cylinders but it's plenty good enough for the engine to work and drive.. Your contractor needs to look for other reasons why the engine is not running, I really doubt its due to the low compression numbers.

Gary

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:18 pm

Gary, thanks for your response, I should have been clearer in my post, sorry. The engine is now running but tons of white smoke coming out of the left side, which is the side where the compression was low...?

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thrasherg
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Location: Plano, TX
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Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby thrasherg » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:35 pm

White smoke ia actually steam, it means you are getting water in the combustion chamber. That linked with your lower compression reading would indicate either a cracked head (Possible but unlikely) or a failed head gasket (Very likely). I would not perform a full engine overhaul, but I would have the head on the left hand side removed and replace the head gasket (check the head surface is flat and not warped). Its a few hours of labour but much cheaper than a full overhaul.

Gary

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WingAdmin
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Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
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1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:48 pm

Check the compression, then put a couple good squirts of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and check the compression again. If the compression goes up, the problem is the rings. If it stays the same, it's your head gasket (or valves - but in your case, with the white smoke, it's likely the head gasket).

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:27 pm

That's great information from both of you gentlemen, thank you. I will check compression tomorrow and report back. If indeed it is the head gasket, how big of a job is that (sorry I don't know alot about this stuff)(I could build you a custom house from the ground up though)? The guy working on the bike is giving up on me at this point, I don't think he was qualified anyway (live and learn), he did clean the carbs for me (but idles poorly). Should I give up on the bike? As a competitive person I want this to work, but as a money conscious person I don't want to throw money away, ugh! I bought it for $650.

cbach1981
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:03 pm
Location: Salem, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I Interstate

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby cbach1981 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:24 pm

luckyus7 wrote: Should I give up on the bike?



:shock: :shock: :shock: ??!!!?? :shock: :shock: :shock:

Rule # 1: Never give up on your bike! Even when you think all is lost, most likely there is someone here that can help you thru your problem. These are absolutely great bikes, fun to ride, and in my opinion fun to maintain. Some things are quite challenging but the pride that goes into fixing and restoring an old wing shows when asked about it on the street.

Rule # 2: If in doubt, refer to rule # 1
    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape!

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Missourimike
Posts: 95
Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 6:03 pm
Location: Springfield, Missouri
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000
1979 GL1000
1981 GL 1100
1962 150 Dream
1973 750 Norton
1983 CX650C #1
1983 CX650C #2

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby Missourimike » Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:31 pm

Those who think the problem is with the head/gasket have my vote. Wing motors with low compression usually come back up with a bit of run time on them, but only when the head gaskets are doing their job. Some think BOTH head gaskets need to be replaced if only one goes bad, but I've replaced more than a few and have never had to go back and replace both when only one went bad. Some may call it luck, but try it before you poo-poo it. If your head is good and the bank has good compression...why mess with it? What's it's problem?
Again, there are little nuances even when changing head gaskets. Check the little rubber O-ring under the head that is on the block's oil passage tube. Look at the book, you'll see it. If at all possible, the small bolt at the very bottom of the head, behind the exhaust header, replace with new bolt. They easily break with age, well before torque is reached. You have to remove the belt to the head, so you might as well change them if the history of them is unknown. $20-25 each at the auto parts store(they can order)for Gates or Dayton. Don't get any from unknown sources. There is one outfit on Ebay that shows Japanese belts in their ad and what you get are Chinese, which are not to be trusted! Again, good luck with your project.

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:30 pm

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, I will refer to rule #1. Time for me to man-up and dig into this myself, I know I can do the work, just a little overwhelmed. Head gasket it is. Feel free to chime in with pointers, this forum has been great! Thank you!

cbach1981
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:03 pm
Location: Salem, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I Interstate

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby cbach1981 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:10 pm

Have you gotten the Honda service manual? If not, I have a copy posted that is readily downloadable. Just follow the link, click GL1100 folder, then click the files. They can be downloaded to your computer in pdf format so you can search thru them for the parts you need.

http://cid-978916b005999849.skydrive.li ... 999849!109
    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape!

luckyus7
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:47 pm
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby luckyus7 » Tue Jan 11, 2011 6:22 am

I will download this maual, but I did purchase a Clymer manual also. One of the guys at my office suggested the Clymer....

cbach1981
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:03 pm
Location: Salem, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I Interstate

Re: 1980 gl1100

Postby cbach1981 » Tue Jan 11, 2011 8:12 am

Can't remember exactly what they are, but clymer has some errors in it. More than any other manual if I remember right. I too have a clymer, it came with the bike, but since getting the honda manual I haven't even opened the clymer. I'm sure someone can point out the errors in that book, I've seen it on the forum somewhere before.


    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape!


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