1980 GL1100 wiring


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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lgsparks1
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1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:40 pm



I just got a 1980 GL1100 that is in great shape and runs fine, but has some creative wiring issues. I am weeding through them slowly and crefully. Th one thing I can't solve yet is that the neutral light is constantly, but gets a little brighter when you actually hit neutral. Any help would be appreciated.


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MJSantos
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby MJSantos » Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:16 pm

Someone will be along with a definite answer but I believe there's an isolation diode in the light circuit and if it fails that's the symptom you get.

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thrasherg
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby thrasherg » Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:18 pm

I would second Mr Santos diagnosis.. The diode between the clutch switch and the neutral light has failed!!

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lgsparks1
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:49 am

Thanks. Now all I have to do is find where you guys are talking about. I am a little overwhelmed by this 362 page book that I downloaded.
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WingAdmin
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:09 am

I'm going to have to disagree.

When the diode fails, it fails one of two ways:

Shorted: The neutral light will come on when either the bike is in neutral, or the clutch lever is pulled in. Bike will start in neutral OR when the clutch lever is pulled in.
Open: The neutral light operates normally, but bike will ONLY start when in neutral, regardless of clutch lever position.

Normal operation is that the neutral light comes on only when the bike is in neutral, and the bike will start when either the bike is in neutral OR the clutch lever is pulled in.

Neither of these failure modes will cause the neutral light to stay on.

Neutral light staying on is caused by a pinched or shorted neutral switch wire. This wire runs down to the neutral switch inside the front cover of the bike. If it gets pinched somewhere or otherwise shorted out, it will cause the neutral light to stay on all of the time. The fact that it is coming on dimly all of the time supports this - the wire is shorted (but not completely) so the light comes on dimly. When shifted to neutral, the wire gets connected to ground properly by the switch, causing the light to come on bright.

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lgsparks1
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:30 am

I am still looking my manual to find the neutral so I can start trcing the problem. Can you tell me exactly where the neutral switch is located. Thanks for the help :D
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thrasherg
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby thrasherg » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:35 am

I have to make a complete U-turn. :oops: . Wingadmnin is right, I was thinking the clutch switch would cause the signal to be grounded, but he is correct that it only grounds when the clutch lever is pulled in!! My bad. :x . As Wingadmin suggests, it is probably a trapped wire some where in the neutral circuit that is causing a bad but permenant ground connection.

Sorry for the bum steer.

Gary

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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:59 am

lgsparks1 wrote:I am still looking my manual to find the neutral so I can start trcing the problem. Can you tell me exactly where the neutral switch is located. Thanks for the help :D


The neutral switch is located inside the front engine cover, which is the piece that the oil filter screws onto, and the bottom radiator hose hooks onto (where the water pump is located).

You will see the wire leading into the front cover through a rubber grommet. Here you can see what it looks like with the cover removed:

Image

This is a 1982, where the neutral switch is mounted on the inside of the cover. The 1980 and 1981 have the switch mounted in the block, but the wire goes to the same place.

Most likely your problem is not inside the cover however - it's likely that the wire leading from the front cover to the harness has gotten pinched/shorted somewhere. So start at the front cover where you see that wire coming out of the grommet, and work your way backward.

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lgsparks1
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 2:55 pm

Thanks. I will be doing this as soon as I get home tonight. :D
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MJSantos
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby MJSantos » Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:51 pm

Told you someone would come along and stear us in the right direction.

rbrill4106
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby rbrill4106 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:35 pm

the wire comes out on the right hand side [sitting in seat] right above motor and should have a plug in line to unhook well removing the front cover.. the front fan shroud and the motor make it a tight fit to reach in to plug or unplug...hope this help and might also be where the problem is..good luck..

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tallman21
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby tallman21 » Fri Feb 18, 2011 10:36 pm

Im glad i found this! i have the same problem

imfree
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby imfree » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:05 am

If this is a 1980 the switch is not inside of the front cover it is located on the bottom of the engine on the right side,the wire runs down between the cam cover and the head on the right side it is attached to the switch by a phillips head screw behind the frame,you will probaly have to jack the engine up to get to it. Joe

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lgsparks1
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:46 pm

Found it. Yea that's going to be fun to get to!!!
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tallman21
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby tallman21 » Wed Feb 23, 2011 6:18 pm

pretty sure i found the space where the wire comes out. it all looks ok tho i dont see any kinks. my neutral light seems to decide when it wants to be on. i noticed when i shift it through the gears it tends to turn off when it hits gear 3 and 5. any ideas?

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RBGERSON
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby RBGERSON » Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:22 am

well they have you on the right track..before you tear into the switch to get it out..not any easy task w/o removing the pipes and spreading the frame a bit...just a real tight space..

But this condition is often caused by carbon build up on the internal side of the switch. Which you may be able to clean by adding diesel to your oil or MMO or Sea foam. Drain a quart of oil out..add a quart of diesel(or other solvent) run the engine for 100 miles easy..you've now thinned the oil so you don't want to stress the bearing on the crank. This will clean all kinds of crud out of your engine and may clean off the switch. Worth a try. Just don't run it hard.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
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lgsparks1
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:37 pm

I am definitely trying that first.
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keithallensmith
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby keithallensmith » Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:25 pm

As with most electrical problems, if it is an intermitent problem i.e. your nuetral switch light, when you start checking the wire you will find a spot where it vibration, or change of tension, that will make the problem more or less prevalant. It sounds to me like you may have a problem some where around clutch cable and wire meet, or pass over one another, the other place to look would be where the shift linkage connects, and see if there is any where that the wire or something that contacts the wire is moved by the shift linkage.

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lgsparks1
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby lgsparks1 » Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:55 am

Well conclusion is wiring good - switch bad.
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imfree
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Re: 1980 GL1100 wiring

Postby imfree » Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:44 am

Read the manual pages 18-18 also 10-5 the spring has probaly come off or the neutral stopper is worn.Joe




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