wiring in my light bars

Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:26 pm
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 ASPENCADE

wiring in my light bars

Post by WINGNUTTMYKE » Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:46 pm

Im going thru my New (old) goldwing aspencade. :mrgreen: Traded my 1973 Harleydavidson Chopper for it.
My chopper was clean and running, the wing is everything but. Im going thru it and want it to be the nicest thing on the block. My question is how to wire the rear lightbars in. Do I run all the powers togeather and the grounds to the frame?? thank you for any help Wingnuttmyke

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Re: wiring in my light bars

Post by MJSantos » Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:51 pm

That would be the easy way to do it. You can hook them up to a switch and get the power from the battery directly and put an inline fuse for them. A second option is to relay control them and get the control voltage for the relay from the taillight circuit, no need for a switch and they would come on with the normal lights you can use the same relay that you would install for running lights such as the add-ons for cars. Automotive supply houses sell them for about $6.00 Keep in mind that when you hook power up for these lights keep the circuit separate from the main harness. The wire gauge in the stock harness is just enough for the original circuits. Adding additional current draw is not good for it. Also be careful on what your adding on. The charge circuit on these are marginal under normal operation. What alot of the folks are doing is replacing the light bulbs with leds they draw less power which gives you more available current.

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Re: wiring in my light bars

Post by thrasherg » Thu Feb 24, 2011 11:59 am

I would also recommend running a return earth wire from your tail lights to the battery negative terminal. Most bikes use the frame as an earth, but the connections always get dirty/rusty and the lights get dimmer. A good solid return to the battery is a much better solution but it can be a bugger running that wire back to the battery (but worth it in my opinion).


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Re: wiring in my light bars

Post by RBGERSON » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:11 am

There should be an "extra" unused hook up on the fuse box..you can wire it there and put a fuse in line as close to the box as possible.


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Re: wiring in my light bars

Post by bobalooby1 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 8:47 pm

RBGERSON wrote:There should be an "extra" unused hook up on the fuse box..you can wire it there and put a fuse in line as close to the box as possible.
A better set up is to use a connection to the battery itself. the reason being that these early wings offer little in the way of having enough power to run accessorys @ the accessory terminal in the fuse block.. There is only ONE accesory terminal there... For what should be an obvious reason. There would be more than ONE if it were capable of handling more. Use a relay and 30 amp fuse to run your lights. and get your power from the battery itself. Use a heavy ground wire when doing this. Light up the night! One more tip: Get rid of that "Dogbone" main fuse. Replace it with a 30amp "ATC" blade type fuse holder with a weather cap over the fuse. those "Dogbone" ribbon type fuses develope cracks in them. And will give you trouble. been there. had it happen.

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Re: wiring in my light bars

Post by WingAdmin » Sun Mar 20, 2011 7:13 pm

Instead of using a catch-all 30 amp fuse to run your lights, the best thing to do is to calculate the draw of the lights you are using, then use a fuse just a bit more than that. For instance, If you are running five 10-watt lights, that's a total of 50 watts. Divide the total watts by 12 (volts) to get the amps. 50/12 = 4.1 amps. So I would put a 5 or 6 amp fuse in there - more than enough to run 50 watts of lights. If something goes wrong (i.e. shorts out), and it suddenly draws 15 or 20 amps, it will blow that fuse and let you know something's gone wrong. If you had a 30 amp fuse in there, it could just sit there drawing 15 or 20 amps until the wiring heated up, melted and potentially caught fire!

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