Fuse Blown, or Worse?


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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RolandD
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 8:15 pm
Location: Branson, MO
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate
2003 Rebel

Fuse Blown, or Worse?

Postby RolandD » Wed Mar 02, 2011 4:52 pm



I have an '83 GL 1100 Interstate. Late, last fall, I was going to ride, one last time before winter. When I went to start it, I drained the battery, and tried to jump start it. I did like I always do with my Rebel, I didn't start my truck, but hooked up the jumper cables to the bike first, then the battery of my truck. When I turned the key on my bike the was nothing, no dash lights, nothing. I charged the battery back up and left it for winter. Now, I'm trying to track down the problem. The Main looks and tests fine, as do all the fuses in the dummy tank. What am I missing?



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MJSantos
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Location: York, Pa
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I
1983 GL1100 Custom
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1983 Honda Magna V45
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Re: Fuse Blown, or Worse?

Postby MJSantos » Wed Mar 02, 2011 5:36 pm

I would start by ckecking the ground cable connections from the battery to the frame. Grounds on these can cause all kinds of symptoms. The 83s only have the one ground cable from the battery to the frame bolt. See what you come up with.

RolandD
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 8:15 pm
Location: Branson, MO
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate
2003 Rebel

Re: Fuse Blown, or Worse?

Postby RolandD » Wed Mar 02, 2011 5:58 pm

MJSantos wrote:I would start by ckecking the ground cable connections from the battery to the frame. Grounds on these can cause all kinds of symptoms. The 83s only have the one ground cable from the battery to the frame bolt. See what you come up with.


Thanks for the suggestion, I just checked continuity from the battery ground to five separate points on the frame and engine. Looks like the ground is good.

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MJSantos
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Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:19 pm
Location: York, Pa
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I
1983 GL1100 Custom
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1983 Honda Magna V45
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Re: Fuse Blown, or Worse?

Postby MJSantos » Wed Mar 02, 2011 7:10 pm

The problem with using just a multimeter is it can show good when you have just a few strands left in a wire. Depending on what the wire is designed for current wise, it could not supply enough to drive the circuit. Same on the ground side. A corroded ground could show fine with the meter but play hell when your trying to draw 5 or 10 amps of current. Funny thing about dc current is it will pass some current but almost go to an open condition as the current increases. The connection reacts like a thermal circuit breaker. One spot on these machines is the dogbone fuse. If it has a hairline fracture the meter could show it good but as soon as the main current draw happens bingo an open. Same holds true with the glass fuses. The internal fuse wire can come loose unde the cap end. Shows good with a meter but opens with the current. If you want to use a meter turn your key to the run position the go from the battery positive with one test lead then check the battery negative with the other. Note the voltage then move the negative lead to the engine block. See what you have voltage wise should be the same. If not the negative battery cable/connections are loosing contact. If it shows good then reverse the meter connection, leave the negative lead hooked to the battery and follow the positive connections from the battery on out. Check the power through the dogbone fuse which is the main feed for the lights etc. there is a second path from the positive battery lead through the starter solenoid to the starter. It will only pass current when the solenoid is engaged by pushing the start button. This supplies a complete path for the solenoid coil to pull the high current contacts closed.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Fuse Blown, or Worse?

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Mar 03, 2011 4:54 pm

What MJSantos said is 100% correct. Have a read through this post I wrote a while back, which describes the whole concept of volts vs amps and why circuits that test out fine with a meter fail under load:

Volts/Amps - electricity vs water




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