7 Volt Regulators


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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jeffinpittsburgh
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Location: pittsburgh pa
Motorcycle: 1982 gl1100
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7 Volt Regulators

Postby jeffinpittsburgh » Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:57 am



ok... ready to tackle this project, but where do i start? do i need to remove the fairing? how do i? 46* today and i am ready for a road trip!!!!

many thanks in advance



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RBGERSON
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Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: 7 Volt Regulators

Postby RBGERSON » Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:18 pm

what year what model..which regulator
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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jeffinpittsburgh
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Re: 7 Volt Regulators

Postby jeffinpittsburgh » Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:42 am

the one that operates the gas & temp gauge...curious if i needed to remove the fairing, would really like to know the simplest way to get the instrument cluster off without having to remove the front of the bike & or have to disconnect the rats nest of wires inside the fairing ... i have another cluster (chrome) along w/ a new regulator I bought here on "docs". So, where are the bolts / screws that hold this in place & what order do i remove them ... i looked at the chrome one & couldn't figure out what held it on the bike. not a whole lotta room to work & figure it out... i am sure once i have the cluster off i could figure the rest out, just didnt want to break anything trying to get it off

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WingAdmin
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1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
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Re: 7 Volt Regulators

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:34 pm

OK, an 82 Aspencade, same as mine. You don't have to remove the fairing - although it gives you extra room to do the job and makes it a bit easier, it's not necessary - I did mine without removing the fairing (I have so many "extra" bits wired into my fairing, I dread having to take it off). If you're afraid of all those wires and connectors, you could always just unbolt the fairing, leaving all the wiring connected, and let the fairing rest on the front wheel (put a towel over it to protect the paint).

In any case, the cluster comes apart relatively easily. There are four philips screws on the back of the cover that need to come out. If your bike has a glareshield (and if it's an 82 Aspy, it should), the top two screws are small hex-head screws instead of philips - you'll need a small nutdriver to get them out. Once the screws are out, pull the glareshield off, then the whole back cover of the cluster will just pop off. You'll see the old regulator right there. Look in the instructions that came with your new regulator and you'll see a few pictures that show what to look for.

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jeffinpittsburgh
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Re: 7 Volt Regulators

Postby jeffinpittsburgh » Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:15 pm

wow...
got it apart after taking the "weight" off & was able to use a stubby phillips, however couldnt get the back cover to go back on. Now the bad news & another question....the gas gauge didnt move, & the temp gauge stayed buried... am i going to have to take this out of the church & start it to let it get a temperature or should it have budged a little? And now that I do have the cluster apart, could i of missed something or does it have to be all put back together & mounted to work?

also curios, where are the "grounding" spots? a lot of conversations talk about bad grounds on these wings. How many places are they and where?

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WingAdmin
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1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 7 Volt Regulators

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Mar 10, 2011 2:48 pm

Are both gauges showing all the way to the left? "Buried" normally means full scale deflection, i.e. all the way to the right.

The first thing to test is the voltage. You'll need a voltmeter, connected between the bolt that the black output wire of the regulator attaches to, and ground. Turn the bike to "ON" and measure the voltage there.

Ground is anywhere on the frame - because the battery has a strap (thick wire) that goes from the negative terminal to the frame - have a look, and you'll see it.

That said, some things like lights or so on use wires for ground, and sometimes the connectors go bad, causing a bad ground.

On your bike, finding a ground wire is easy - they're all green. Any time you find a green wire in your bike, it's ground. That said, for testing, it's just as easy to use a bare piece of metal - i.e. handlebars - for a ground.




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