rear master cylinder bleeding problem


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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yoland
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rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby yoland » Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:42 pm



Hi, i have just rebuilt my rear master cylinder but i have a problem with bleeding the system. I dont have a mity vac ..what do you suggest ? i do have a large aluminium seringe but the brake oil stop at the master cylinder ..i do have an air flow going to the rear when i pump the break pedal...

Yoland



DragonRider
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Motorcycle: 1982 and 1983 GL1100 Aspencades

Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby DragonRider » Sat Jun 04, 2011 8:29 pm

First take a small hose and attach it to the bleeder, place other end into a clear bottle. with bleeder tight pump up pedel until you get some pressure and hold pedel down while you open bleeder, repeat process until you are happy.

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littlebeaver
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby littlebeaver » Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:44 am

Yes, what Dragonrider said, use a 8mm boxed end wrench so you can loosen it while still maintaining having the hose on the bleeder nipple, I use one of those clear hoses and I fill the jar with brake fluid about 3/4 full and make sure the hose go's to the bottom of the container.. As you pump your brake several times hold the brake peddle down forcing out the air in the line out then quickly lock that bleeder bolt back, repeat this method...Soon the peddle with get really hard, once you see no more bubbles your good..Keeping pressure on the peddle while loosening the bleeder bolt is an art..You will master it after a few times.. Good luck.. Make certain your reservoir is full and you don't run out of fluid in it.. Good luck..DragonRider is right on the Money..

DragonRider
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby DragonRider » Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:06 am

Almost forgot; if you have linked brakes you will have to bleed "all" brakes using foot pedal and then go back and rebleed "all" brakes using hand lever.
Personally I spend the little bit and let my local bike shop bleed them (NOTE I did not say dealer).

Brakes are a major safety Item and I would rather pay a few $$ and make sure it perfect then to hope I got everything right while I am hauling Butt down the interstate.

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yoland
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby yoland » Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:59 am

OK i did the bleeding no more air in the plastic tube just clean brake fluid and the peddle is still soft... and it does not brake well..no leaks ...tube are ok so what the problem.. :?:

leanjoe
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby leanjoe » Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:52 am

I'm assuming you put new pads in ,right ? If you are not getting anymore air and ,the pedal is still soft,there has to be a leak somewhere,the linkage is not connected,pads are worn away,rotor is out of service limit...

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littlebeaver
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby littlebeaver » Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:58 pm

80 model is what he has I believe, they should not be linked, 82 and 83's sure are though..You might have check your hoses at the connections for looseness or cracks, you might be getting air in somewhere..

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yoland
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby yoland » Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:15 pm

ok how do you know if your rotor is out of service limit ? and no i did not change pads.. they look ok .. when you pump de peddle a few times the break cylinder make a pression on the rotor. but when you apply just one normal pump it's not enough....
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this is my winter project and the winter wont give me a break..

DragonRider
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby DragonRider » Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:38 pm

OK; if you bleed brakes and get no more air but still have no brake pressure there is an issue. Pads may be old and rotor out of spec but still there should be brake peddle pressure.
As has been said there could be a loose connection or a pin hole in the brake line or the worst (for you) the rebuild was done incorrectly and a seal is damaged (it happens).
With everything tight and clean and dry and fluid topped off and capped(make sure everything is dry including the ground) pump brakes about 20 times, look at fluid bowl and see if level has dropped any. If it has you should see fluid somewhere, If fluid level has not dropped repeat process.
Now if you have good brake peddle pressure, just bike is not stopping then I recommend changing pads (you should always change pads whenever you take caliper off rotor and especially after a caliper rebuild).
To check rotor you need a micrometer and just measure across the rotor in several spots, Since I dont know what the specs should be for your bike you will have to get that from Honda.
1982 GL1100's the early ones did not have linked brakes, the later ones did have linked brakes.

macka
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby macka » Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:46 pm

You measure it with a vernier caliper. You can buy a halfway decent one from Canadian Tire for around 40 bucks.

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yoland
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby yoland » Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:56 pm

Thanks.. i will go back and start over again ... the say golf built caracter .. i think goldwing too... :D

Yoland

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WingAdmin
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:07 pm

DragonRider wrote:Almost forgot; if you have linked brakes you will have to bleed "all" brakes using foot pedal and then go back and rebleed "all" brakes using hand lever.
Personally I spend the little bit and let my local bike shop bleed them (NOTE I did not say dealer).

Brakes are a major safety Item and I would rather pay a few $$ and make sure it perfect then to hope I got everything right while I am hauling Butt down the interstate.


That's not quite accurate. If the brakes are "linked" on the 1100, it just means the pedal operates the rear caliper and the right front caliper. The lever operates the front left caliper. You start with the pedal bleeding the right front caliper, then the rear caliper. Then bleed the left front caliper, and you're done.

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littlebeaver
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby littlebeaver » Wed Jun 08, 2011 1:04 am

littlebeaver wrote:80 model is what he has I believe, they should not be linked, 82 and 83's sure are though..You might have check your hoses at the connections for looseness or cracks, you might be getting air in somewhere..

I am sure the 83's have linked brakes but what about the 82's I know my 81 doesn't have them...I made a boo boo...I think... :shock: :shock:

macka
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby macka » Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:20 am

I think the late run 82's have them just before the switch to the 83 model.

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WingAdmin
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:13 pm

I've never seen or heard of an 82 model year with linked brakes. Only the 83's and onward had them.

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yoland
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby yoland » Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:41 pm

Ok when you press hard on the peddle you see some air bubble
getting out the small brake oil contaner....? M'y break peddle is still soft

Yoland

DragonRider
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Re: rear master cylinder bleeding problem

Postby DragonRider » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:21 pm

yoland wrote:Ok when you press hard on the peddle you see some air bubble
getting out the small brake oil contaner....? M'y break peddle is still soft

Yoland


If you still see air bubbles then it was not bleed completly "or" more likely there is a leak. If all hoses are tight and you see no fluid then I would suggest that the master cyclinder seals may be bad.
You rebuilt the calipers but you may have to rebuild the master cylinder as well. I have had a problem with the front brake master cylinder and had to take it apart and replace the "o" rings. I do not know what is in the rear master cylinder but I assume you have an "o" ring which may be cracked and allowing in air.




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