Vacuum Advance Replacement


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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racer59
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:01 pm
Location: Grafton,WI
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 interstate

Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby racer59 » Mon Jun 27, 2011 10:41 pm



I think my vacuum advance unit needs to be replaced. When I suck on the hose leading to the unit then put my tongue on the openning I can feel the vacuum leak down. Does that mean it is bad? How does a guy replace the unit? Does the motor have to be dropped out of the frame?



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littlebeaver
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:08 am

Remove Swingarm..Mittyvac hand pump to test or one like it..don't need to pull engine..Fun job...You may want to also remove the mechanical spark advance unit while your there, spray it clean with brake cleaner, lightly grease and put back, make sure your dowel pin is there and its not broken.. Keep us posted the guys here can walk you thru this with not problem..

racer59
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:01 pm
Location: Grafton,WI
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 interstate

Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby racer59 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 9:55 am

If I use a Mityvac should it leak down at all? If it does need to be replaced, can the vacuum diaphram be replaced or does the whole unit need to be replaced ($150)? Thanks

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littlebeaver
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:12 am

This canister will bleed off the unwanted air that is higher than 3.8" which is where it should stop, so if you were to pump it too much it will bleed down to that setting then stop and hold there, if it goes down all the way to zero it is not a good thing, you have a hole in the diaphragm. You must have a good tight fitting hose to conduct this test too, as any light leak from the hose will mess with you..The canister comes off the rest of the unit, it's attached to the plate that moves when it's activatied, it's held with a small circlip, there is also a bolt on the side of the unit that unscrews to remove it, that bolt I'm referring to looks likes it round and you could turn it by hand but I think you might want the vise grips handy..It's a job getting to it this unit, but it's worth it, you can find them on ebay but ask if they have been tested or does it hold a vacuum before you buy one..I have a test here somewhere with a short video..look in the search area above hit the second search to the right then it's the bottom line for this..Key in Vacuum advancer test, good luck to you :D

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littlebeaver
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:24 am

Also if you can see the screw hole on the very back of the canister then there's a good chance that the leak is there, there is suppose to be a epoxy cap on that screw hole sealing it, air will sure leak out of there if that cap has come off..You could hold a finger over it and test it again, it might work right then..Hopeful it will hold, but if it still bleeds down you have a hole in the diaphragm..You can do all of this without taking anything apart..

racer59
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby racer59 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:28 pm

OK, so I connected the Mighty Vac gave it one pump and the gauge went up to a little over 2. It then gradually dropped to 0 over about a 5 or 6 second period of time. Sounds like the unit is shot?

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littlebeaver
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:50 pm

Was the rear of the canister still sealed at the screw hole [epoxy], you should be able to confirm this just by looking at it..It's common they fall off..You can pump it twice if you want..but it sure sounds like it has a hole in it or the cap seal is off the back..that's really important to check..Here's what I'm talking about..Photo of the screw hole on the rear of the canister...So what does that screw do? It's your adjustment screw for your 3.8 by turning it in or out, I am able to put it a hair under 4" which is close to 3.8 ...I learned all of this messing with them and I figured it all out...the one in the photo was repaired [diaphragm] it had a few holes in it, I just patched the holes... I couldn't have learned any of this without my trusty mityvac..fantasic tool to own.. :D
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if it looks like this it should be sealed with epoxy, I use JB Weld but I place in a small spitball first so it doesn't dribble into the unit..
if it looks like this it should be sealed with epoxy, I use JB Weld but I place in a small spitball first so it doesn't dribble into the unit..

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littlebeaver
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:02 pm

Here are some more photo's for you..

racer59
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Location: Grafton,WI
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 interstate

Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby racer59 » Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:02 am

How big of a job is removing the swingarm? Is it worth the trouble of replacing the advance unit if the bike runs well on the highway and the only problem right now is a little missing going through town. It seems to run well as long as there is a load on the engine.

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littlebeaver
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Wed Jun 29, 2011 10:51 am

It all depends on if you're a perfectionist or not, or if you want the engine to perform really nicely running throught the lower gears up to 3000 rpm, unless you have a really large hole in it, it should be fine..How big is the job, it's kinda a pain in the rear :lol: , but getting the experience to do it is worth everything, their are the two swingarm bolts that hold the swingarm in place, one on the left[sitting on bike] has a lock type nut that requires a special tool to remove, most guys make one out of piping or a socket or I used a piece of flat stock and grinded it to fit the opening and popped it once to break it loose better put a glove on the end of it or you shall recieve shock treatment to your hand. :shock: ..make a tool and do it right :geek: , then under that is a allen bolt that goes into where the bearings live and kinda holds everything in place, the other side has just a regular bolt on it which is 19mm but it looks like the allen side that holds the swingarm in place and rides on the bearing..it's most important to torque these bolts when putting back using a torque wrench..the thing I did was I removed the master brake cylinder the final gear and the circlip that holds the drive shaft in place, the the whole swingarm comes striaght out out the back when removing all of these parts mentioned..so it's a job but once you get through it and put it all back proper you will feel like you could do just about anything..But if it's just a small miss don't fudge with it..Live with what you got, or not :D ... knowing it's there and you know about it is what counts...Some people say to block off that vacuum advance all together at the carb because you won't feel the difference or notice it, I'm not one of those people ..I just built my own to work proper because that's how I roll. :lol: What happens when you throttle thru the rpm's up to 3000 the vacuum thru the carbs opens the pickup coils and at 3grand they are wide open, ok..now when you have a small hole it's still gonna work with no problem, but..but..if these holes get larger or there are more than one then the advance will be lost, eventually none at all so when you throttle it the pick up coils just lay :( there like their dead :lol: Not doing a flippen thing, just waiting for someone to come along and fix them because it's possible.. :lol: Good luck, I did what I could to help you and your little pickup friends, mine are dancing around with joy.. :lol:

racer59
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:01 pm
Location: Grafton,WI
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 interstate

Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby racer59 » Wed Jun 29, 2011 5:23 pm

Littlebeaver, you've been a tremendous help. I think I'll just run it the way it is for now, but keep an eye on it. When I begin to notice it getting worse I'll start looking for the parts and tackle the job (I am pretty mechanical and not affraid). At this point I think I have another issue I should take on. I went on a 5 day trip with my daughter just recently and found my new goldwing likes to drink oil (1 qt. in about 500-600 miles). I knew I had an intake valve seal letting oil in, but that was ridiculous. Maybe the rings too? Can that be done with the engine in the frame? I value your opinion. Thanks, Mike

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littlebeaver
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:11 pm
Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Special, 82 Kawa 750 CSR, 82 Kawa 750 LTD, 03 Kawa Nomad 1500, 99 Kawa Voyager 1200

Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:16 pm

Yes, I would post a new topic on that problem, guy's will come out of the woodwork to help.. :D

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littlebeaver
Posts: 4420
Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:11 pm
Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Re: Vacuum Advance Replacement

Postby littlebeaver » Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:43 am

That's a lot of oil being lost, it's not leaking into the coolant is it, I'd drain the coolant to be sure...When I said Yes above I was referring to the valve stem replacment...




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