OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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sagh
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OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby sagh » Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:21 pm



Hi There, Started changing the engine oil on my 81 GL1100 and after loosening the oil drain plug, I noticed aluminum threads around the bolt. Now the bolt does not seat properly as the hole it's supposed to seal is stripped enough not to tighten. Can I retap the hole with a bigger tap or is there another solution. Thanks, Paul



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HALBUDD
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby HALBUDD » Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:26 pm

Yes you can tape it, and i would suggest you put a magnetic oil plug back in if it does not have one Just my 2 cents . Hal
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keithg64
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby keithg64 » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:04 pm

You could also drill out and tap for a heli-coil and reinstall the same size oil drain plug. You can get them at any automotive shop.
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sagh
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby sagh » Tue Aug 23, 2011 12:16 pm

Thanks for the help friends...I'll be able to tackle it this weekend.
Paul

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maestro319
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby maestro319 » Tue Aug 23, 2011 4:26 pm

What's a "heli-coil"?

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L2R
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby L2R » Tue Aug 23, 2011 6:53 pm

helicoil is probably the best solution.
It works as good or actually better than new.
It allows you to use the same old oem bolt. This will be imortant when you go to sell it.

It looks about like a spring. You drill out the hole to the size required and then thread it with a tap.
Then the helicoil is screwed in just like a bolt. The round spring fills around the new thread on the outside of the spring and the inside diameter of the helicoil becomes the new threads. Now you are back to the same size that is oem.

Two important things, get a good torque wrench. this is aluminum and the torque value is in the 20s. This is something you don't want to do again.

This oil is not under pressure, the washer actually keeps the oil from leaking (why they say to replace it each time). This is why Honda wants you to torque it low so you don't ruin your engine.
2nd, if you drill /tap the hole, do NOT us tapmagic or any other brand of oil used to tap steel. It WILL lock it up and then you will be in trouble. Just use a little grease on the tip of the drill and the tap. The chips will stay in the grease. Be careful not to push the drill. Let the drill bit cut (won't take long, again, it's aluminum) and you will feel it breaking thru. This is important as you want to stop and pull it back just as soon as it breaks thru. You want to get all the chips to fall below or stay in the grease. Allowing or pushing the drill bit deeper is just begging for aluminum chips in the pan.

Not sure about the magnetic plug. Aluminum isn't magnetic. Maybe they had another purpose here but it won't collect the chips if you have or get any in the case.
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Aug 24, 2011 2:36 pm

L2R wrote:Not sure about the magnetic plug. Aluminum isn't magnetic. Maybe they had another purpose here but it won't collect the chips if you have or get any in the case.


You could also helicoil and then replace it with a dipstick, which mounts into the same hole. When the dipstick is installed, its bolt is then used to drain the oil, so you aren't wearing away at the helicoiled spot.

The magnetic bolt is useful to remove floating bits of steel (i.e. from pistons, crank, gears, all other sorts of steel bits) in the engine that could otherwise clog screens or do other damage.

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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby redghost » Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:30 pm

Anytime you join unlike metals together with threads, you might consider using a touch of copper base anti-sieze which helps avoid gaulding the threads of the softest metal, no matter what the combination of metals. Basically, this serves as another ground up soft metal that is non-corrosive & very hightemp that will be like a mailbox for you. You'll want to wear disposable gloves or you'll be wearing anti-sieze. You're best friend is an inch lbs. & a ft. lbs. Torque Wrench, torque specs, knowledge of thread size,
and a small can of copper anti-sieze with a little brush is a must. 1 little can will last for years. Try it, you'll LOVE IT!!! From most any automotive store. Torque Ratchet Wrenches from Sears (Craftsman) works good for me. ALWAYS.... PUT Back to ZERO for storage!!!! You can transfer inch lbs. TO foot lbs. if it's within range. For proper torque wrench operations and training, use only in range of 20-80%. Hope this helps those that likes, as I do, to learn as I always do from this website. Glad it's available for me!

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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby littlebeaver » Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:50 pm

maestro319 wrote:What's a "heli-coil"?

Here's it is..http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=hel ... GRE4#x0y81

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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby xracer27 » Thu Sep 01, 2011 6:36 pm

A time sert would probably go in easier if you have never put in a heli coil. Especialy since you have to be able to break off and retrieve the installation tang on the heli coil.
http://www.timesert.com/

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littlebeaver
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby littlebeaver » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:21 am

Wow, I think I like the timesert better, kinda looks like a great product.. :D Good job xracer27 thanks for posting that..

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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby cbx4evr » Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:11 am

I agree with 'xracer27'

I've used both heli-coils and Time-serts and find the Time-sert a better product.


http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby Old Fogey » Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:21 am

Yes, they are. But good luck finding them if you live over this side of the Pond!
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thehorseman1955
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby thehorseman1955 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 12:02 pm

most auto parts stores sell self tapping oversize drain plugs.just take in your plug and they should have the right size. car drain plugs get stripped to.
1975 Honda sl360,1977 honda cb550k, 1980 honda cx500d, 1982 honda gl1100a, 1982 suzuki gs450l, 1983 suzuki gs850l,1981 suzuki gs1000g,and 3,1970s Yamaha dirt bikes: these I still have. sold lots through the years but these all still do something for me

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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby littlebeaver » Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:40 am

thehorseman1955 wrote:most auto parts stores sell self tapping oversize drain plugs.just take in your plug and they should have the right size. car drain plugs get stripped to.

Nice bike there Horseman55, looks just like the WingAdmin's 82...Nice...

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thehorseman1955
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby thehorseman1955 » Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:24 pm

thanks L B.i'd take yours cross country to. anyway try oversize drain plugs for a cheap fix, i've used them a few times with good sucess
1975 Honda sl360,1977 honda cb550k, 1980 honda cx500d, 1982 honda gl1100a, 1982 suzuki gs450l, 1983 suzuki gs850l,1981 suzuki gs1000g,and 3,1970s Yamaha dirt bikes: these I still have. sold lots through the years but these all still do something for me

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sagh
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Re: OIL PLUG BOLT TROUBLE

Postby sagh » Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:13 pm

Thanks for the help and advice. The drain plug bolt that came off the bike was a M14 1.5. Not knowing if this is the original size or not. I found an M16 1.5 drain plug at the local canadian tire and a 14.5 mm drill and went to work. Drain plug works fine. I did go to the timesert site and requested a price for the kit and also if they ship to my neck of the woods. Again, thanks for all the help.

Paul




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