Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Digitlghost
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:34 pm
Location: Missouri
Motorcycle: '81 GL1100I

Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions

Postby Digitlghost » Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:06 pm



Hey guys,

I'm pretty sure I've blown a head gasket so I'm going to do the headgaskets. I figured I would go ahead and rebuild the top-end on cylinders. Finding the top-end gasket kit is easy enough but I'm wondering that other parts should I replace while I'm in there? This is my first wing and my first time cracking the case on anything bigger then a CL360.

Any pointers and suggestions would be awesome.



Digitlghost
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:34 pm
Location: Missouri
Motorcycle: '81 GL1100I

Re: Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions

Postby Digitlghost » Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:07 pm

I guess I should list off the parts I plan on replacing:

Valve Guides
Oil Control Orifice
Cylinder Head Gaskets
Oil Seals
Cap Seal
O-Rings (8 rings in 3 different sizes)
Dowel Pins (8 pins in 2 sizes)

We're also thinking of doing a ring job on the pistons while we're in there.

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moffat
Posts: 264
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:30 pm
Location: Northwich United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
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Re: Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions

Postby moffat » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:13 am

You cannot replace the piston rings without spliting the crankcase, The right hand side pistons are refitted from the top and the left hand side pistons are replaced from the bottom. Its tricky and really best done with two people.
T

Digitlghost
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:34 pm
Location: Missouri
Motorcycle: '81 GL1100I

Re: Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions

Postby Digitlghost » Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:38 am

moffat wrote:You cannot replace the piston rings without spliting the crankcase, The right hand side pistons are refitted from the top and the left hand side pistons are replaced from the bottom. Its tricky and really best done with two people.
T

Thanks for the heads-up. My brother and I will be doing the work so we have extra hands but I'm thinking of skipping the ring job. It has good compression and I don't see any other reason to replace them then the engine would already be broken down.

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moffat
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Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100
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Re: Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions

Postby moffat » Tue Aug 30, 2011 3:24 am

When you get thw heads off then inspect the top of the cylinder bore for wear,I recommend HONDA head gaskets as some of the agftermarket ones are suspect. Try the head surface for level by placing the head on an old mirror ( tend to be very flat compared to window glass and check for warping using feeler gauges then place very fine emery paper on the morror and move the head around to check for high spots.-You may have to have the heads skimmed but be careful not to increase the compression ratio too much.
Be careful puttiing the head gasket back as it easy to put it the wrong way round, I would photgraph the job as you go along for reference. A toque wrench is an essential tool. Replace the "0" rinds on the oil feed nozzle as well there should be no need to replace thew dowel pins if not damaged. carfully follw the procedure to set the cam timimg belts as its easy to put them back a notch and resent the tappets as per the book. Use the timimg marks T1 and then T2

Digitlghost
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:34 pm
Location: Missouri
Motorcycle: '81 GL1100I

Re: Gl1100I top-end rebuild questions

Postby Digitlghost » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:03 am

moffat wrote:When you get thw heads off then inspect the top of the cylinder bore for wear,I recommend HONDA head gaskets as some of the agftermarket ones are suspect. Try the head surface for level by placing the head on an old mirror ( tend to be very flat compared to window glass and check for warping using feeler gauges then place very fine emery paper on the morror and move the head around to check for high spots.-You may have to have the heads skimmed but be careful not to increase the compression ratio too much.
Be careful puttiing the head gasket back as it easy to put it the wrong way round, I would photgraph the job as you go along for reference. A toque wrench is an essential tool. Replace the "0" rinds on the oil feed nozzle as well there should be no need to replace thew dowel pins if not damaged. carfully follw the procedure to set the cam timimg belts as its easy to put them back a notch and resent the tappets as per the book. Use the timimg marks T1 and then T2


Awesome! Thanks much for the input!




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