83 spedometer


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glasshead
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83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Sat Sep 10, 2011 3:48 pm



I need some help. I have several issues, not related but they all happened at the same time. I had a new tire put on the front. To save $ I took the wheel off myself and had it put on the rim. While the wheel was off, I loosened my handle bars and pulled them down some for a better fit. ALso, when taking the wheel OFF, the plastic loop at the end of the speedo cable where the screw goes through, broke in half. When I put the wheel back on I figured it would be o.k.. Got the wheel with new tire back on and took the bike for a test ride today. 1. The speedometer did not work. 2. The automatic turn signal cancler did not work. 3. The front tire bounces up and down as if on a bumpy road.
When I got home, found that the flat 'nipple' on the axle where the speedo cable slips onto, broke off. How do I repalce/fix that? The only thing that I can figure about the signal cancelling has to do with moving the handle bars down. What should I check for on that. And is the bouncing tire just a normal new tire thing that will go away in time or should I talk to the guy that put the tire on the rim? :|

rich



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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:16 pm

I have more info for anyone who wants to take on the challenge. I may have the speedo and tire thing solved. I re read how to take off front wheel and saw how the gear box slides off. I have a new used one on its way from flea bay,$30 including shipping. The tire does not seem to be bouncing nearly as much, I don't immediately notice it. BUT. :evil: the turn signal problem has shown another ugly side. I decided to take the turn signal assembly apart to see what I could see. There was a little blue corrosion on the copper contacts. I cleaned that up and greased it a little with some spark plug grease that comes in a packet to put on the inside of the rubber boot. (I just happened to have it in my tool box). I put it back together and tried the turn signal cancell..no luck. But the turn signals flashed louder than ever. I figured I can live without the cancell since half the time it was cancelling before I made a turn. A little annoying. (Maybe related?) Later tonight it being nice and cool out, (69degrees),I decide it is a perfect time for a short run to the post office, about 5 miles down the road. Half way there the turn signals stop working all together. I get to the post office, drop off the package and fiddle with the flasher (which I replaced earlier this year because the turn signals would'nt work, especially on a cold morning. (Hum) I checked the fuse, I took the turn signal unit apart and wiggled and jiggled. No luck. I figured it was back to you guys and the drawing board. Put the halves back together, fired her up and just for fun turned the right signal on leaving the parking lot and she worked. :!: Right AND left worked all the way home. If it works in the morning I'm taking her to work (80 miles round trip), speedo or no speedo. But I really don't want to keep riding with this intermittent problem. No speedometer is a pain but no turn signals is dangerous. I need help fast.


rich

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twostrokes48
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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby twostrokes48 » Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:37 am

Not sure on the 83, but on my 84, the turn signal cancel is tied in with the speedo somehow.. I had my speedo unit go out at the front wheel assy where it slides in. As soon as it quit working, my cancel quit working... I did read somewhere that is normal... As soon as I replaced the sensor unit on the front wheel for the speedo, the cancel started working again. I did not question why, it was just made that way.Now if you have created any other problems, don't know about that.

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glasshead
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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:16 am

Hopefully when I replace the gear box it will solve it. BUT this morning it was cool out and I tried the signals before putting my gear on. New development. They didn't work as I thought they might not, but when I turned the switch for a left turn the RIGHT signal light came on but did not flash, (and the back turn light did not come on at all.) When I turned the switch for right, the LEFT light came on and stayed on.

That has GOT to be a sign of something specific :?: :?: :roll:

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:22 am

The turn signal canceler is definitely tied into the speedometer, that's one of the factors it takes into consideration when deciding when to cancel them.

I would never fill the switch with dielectric grease like you mentioned - I would want them as clean as possible. In fact, when my switches start to malfunction, I take some contact (or brake) cleaner and hose all the grease and dirt out of them, leaving them as clean as possible - and that always fixes any problem I may have.

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glasshead
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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Mon Sep 12, 2011 12:23 pm

I'll clean them when I get home today. I just thought about how you put a little grease on a battery terminal to keep the corrosion down. It would be nice if that solved the whole problem, but the whole thing with the oppositie turn signal going on seems more complicated than that. :?

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby twostrokes48 » Mon Sep 12, 2011 12:37 pm

Lights working crazy like you mention usually is a grounding problem. Could still be caused by the grease interfering with contact points in switch, so it is looking for another way to ground and may go through other circuits causing wrong lights to light, horns to blow,radios to come on....well maybe not that crazy but you get my point. I actually had an MG Midget that did all that stuff and more, all bad grounds, What a nightmare to get them all grounding like they should, all 17 of them. Least that's how many were redone, might have missed a few.. After you clean up the switches, hopefully that problem will go away and when you get the new sensor in the fron wheel assy, that should fix the canceling aspect and get you a speedo back.
good luck

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glasshead
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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:40 pm

I am zeroing in on the problem. I cleaned the switch, took the whole thing apart and cleaned and put it back together. Still no turn signal. (I still have a horn). But I found out some more info. By the time I got it all back togehter it was dark. when I turn the ignition on I can hear the solonoid of the cancell mechanism click. In the middle position, the two lights (turn signal lights) stay on. I'm guessing that is normal. Just can't see them in the daytime. When I turn the signal switch left, it's not that the right signal comes on without flashing, it's that the left light goes out. Switch right and the right light goes out. My guess is,like you say, a short someplace. Would a short make electrical connections not work when it gets cold?

thanx
rich

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twostrokes48
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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby twostrokes48 » Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:45 pm

cold weather normally will not cause a short, but it can cause an open circuit. Metal contracts when it gets cold, so when the metal heats up it expands. This can cause a loose connection to make or break, just by the contraction/expansion of the metal. Just can't tell you where that might be.

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glasshead
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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:16 pm

I hope someone is still with me here. I got one step closer today. First let me say that the wiring on this bike is totally messed up. Wires are cut and spliced all over.

So.. I traced all the bundles that have obviously been wrapped with tape, indicating someone had gone in and done something. I unwrapped them and wiggled wires while trying the turn signals. I worked my way up to behind the headlight. Before taking the headlight out, I grabed a plastic connector (or something, I couldn't really see) and while holding it I tried the turn signals and they worked. So reason dictates that the problem is in there. Got the headlight out and several wires were spliced, one leading to nowhere and tapped on one end. I could not get the turn signals to work again. I got the wires out of the clamp connectors, got the extra wire out of there and this is what I am left with.
There are 4 wires coming off the back end of the headlight; a white and a blue on one side that are independent of each other and leading off behind the faring. 2 green wires that are on the same connector on the headlight, that are short and right there. One is a bare wire (probably cut from a longer wire somewhere), and one has a female connector on it. Then.. from the left side coming down from inside the faring, is a green wire that is bare on the end, not connected to anything. A brown wire is coming from the right side of the faring with a female connector on it not connected to anything. When I connect the 2 bare green wires, my headlight comes on, but no signals. I could not get the turn signals to work, no matter what combination of wires I tried to connect. So what SHOULD the white, blue and 2 green wires coming off the headlight, be connected to. AND what sould the brown and green wires on either side of the faring be connected to. When I get that solved I am sure my turn signals will be back up and running.

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby twostrokes48 » Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:18 pm

The wiring diagrams are available on this site, suggest you download them and see if you can trace them out. That's my best advise at this point.

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby littlebeaver » Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:36 am

Glasshead I am going to try to help you out, the white and blue wires coming out of the back of the headlight go to the high and low beam switch, there should be a green wire that goes no place, another green wire goes to both turn signals and it comes out of the headlight area as well. There are three wires going to the left turn signal one is Orange and white and the other is solid Orange and the third is green [ground].. The right turn signal colors are Green for ground, solid Skyblue and a Blue and White wire, now it looks like the brown wire tie's into the blue and white wire for the right signal but it goes nowhere too so you shouldn't be too concerned with it....... I thinks its your green wires messing with you leave the blank one alone and check the connections on the other green ones ... Anyhow this might help and maybe not at least you know what goes where now.. I hope it helps... :D

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:11 pm

So far you have all helped. I got the wrires at the headlight straight. All extra stuff out of there. It did not fix the turn signals, but it is a definite short somewhere. The fuse box in the false tank is a mess. One of the fuses had melted the holder and the two wires attached to the + and - screws are not even there. I am going to replace the whole box...can I get one from an automotive parts store or does it have to be a Honda thing. AND what wires should go where when I connect the fuse holders back? What color are the + and - wires coming into the end of the box and where do they come from?

Sorry,, lots of questions. The turn signals were working for a minute. I took the back of the fuse box off and messed around under there until I blew a fuse. When I replaced the fuse right away, they worked. Went to the store and came back a couple of hours later, and they don't work again. :evil:

Step by step.

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby littlebeaver » Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:32 pm

Here is a layout and wire colors for your fusebox...... Well you know green is ground, the first 10amp fuse is green and black on the front side and it looks like the back goes to positive of the aux screw far right ...Second fuse going[ right to left] is a 5amp fuse and the holder on the front wire is brown and brown on the rear. next is 15 amp and its green and white on the front and brown on the rear,next is a 5amp and its brown and black on the front and brown on the rear,next is a 10amp and its brown and white on the front and brown on the rear, and then another and final 10amp and its red and black on the front and brown on the rear.... I hope this helps... :D If I recall if one of the rear wires is not connected good I think the front ones didn't blink, check the rear turn signal connections too.. It sure sound like something isn't connected or grounding proper...There's a wire diagram here on this site, Good luck..

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:26 am

Thanx. It sure is a good thing that I enjoy working on stuff. Vintage means "working on it " some "riding it" some.

I'll keep you posted on my progress. This is great info on getting the fuse box back to 'normal'.

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby littlebeaver » Fri Sep 16, 2011 3:49 pm

Rich, don't feel bad, when I got my bike, it was set up for a streetbike, no faring and this guy had the wires so jacked up that I had a time with it, I studied the wires found out what goes where one wire at a time, man, he had a 79 rear turn signal set up on the rear, I'm no sparky but, I figured I had better learn something new right quick and I did..That clymer manual helped me so much because it had the wire diagram in the back of the book because it was before I found this site..

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:08 pm

O.k. I'm to the 'look at the wiring diagrams' stage. I tried to find them on this site. Not much luck. Where do I look?

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby littlebeaver » Sat Sep 17, 2011 12:22 am

You can find them by going to the top of this page, look and click on manuals, then scan down until you see your 83 interstate ..With the colors I gave you and the colors on the diagram you should be set..My Clymer's manual gives letter symbols for the wire colors...Hey Glass head I made a mistake on the wires that I said were brown coming out of the back side of most of those fuse clips, it's black not brown..sorry about that....Anyhow hope you get it worked out..

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Sat Sep 17, 2011 3:31 pm

Yea, I got that littlebeaver. The wires were where they should be. Thanx. I get a little closer each time I get a minute to work on it. Today I unplugged the cluster that plugs into the left side of the fairing. Put one side of my volt meter on the color for the right turn and the other meter lead to the neg on battery. When I switched the right turn signal, I got an increase in voltage. (If I switched on the left turn, I got no change.) Same with left. So it seems the problem is inside the fairing. But all my other theories have been shot down, so who knows.
I'll keep at it.

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Sat Sep 17, 2011 9:59 pm

Newest update. I have the false tank and seat off so I can get to things. I got a few stray connectors off that someone had used to tap into different wires for some reason. ( the wires they added were cut off and the conectors just left there.) That didn't give me turn signals, but it cleaned things up some. I had turn signals several times in the process and I thought I licked it. But it didn't last. I can't find any bare or loose wires anywhere and no matter how much I jiggle and wiggle, I can't get a semblance of power to the turn signals, except on those rare times when they just decide to work for a minute.
I DID cause another problem, which just might explain the mystery. While I had the switch off the handle bars (it's still off), I decided to clean the bright/dim switch with some cleaner spray while I was in there. Now I don't have any headlights either. I can get the dim and bright to work when I jump the solder connections with a screw driver, but not with the switch. I took the copper 'u' shaped contact that slips into the white plastic holder out and cleaned it and scaped it and it still will not make contact I guess. I can jump the 'pads' on the other end of the solder side, and the lights will come on. I tried turning the copper 'u' contact around both ways but it won't get the job done.
If that conntact just goes bad, maybe the same is happening at the turn signal side? :?:

If I do have to end up replacing that whole light,turn signal, horn unit, how do you get the old off and the new one on. I traced the wires down as far as I could see, and I didn't come across a plug in connection. Do you cut and solder?

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby littlebeaver » Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:55 pm

Sounds like somethings not grounding...

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Sat Sep 17, 2011 11:10 pm

I may be going for a record on how many entries I can make for one problem. I have my laptop up on the kitchen table and the bike is right out the door in the carport. Makes it easy to go work on it and come right in and ask more questions.
I built the flat part of the 'u' shaped copper contact with solder, put it back on the white plastic holder (with the spring), and it works like a charm. Now I want to jump the contacts on the turn signal switch, by passing the lever, to see if that contact is bad. The problem is, there are SIX wires going to it. Oranage/white, light blue/white, brown/white, light blue, grey, orange.

I could just randomly start jumping wires, but it would be a lot easier (and maybe save a fuse or two), if anyone knew what combination turns the signals on. :? :?:

rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:08 am

glasshead wrote:I may be going for a record on how many entries I can make for one problem. I have my laptop up on the kitchen table and the bike is right out the door in the carport. Makes it easy to go work on it and come right in and ask more questions.
I built the flat part of the 'u' shaped copper contact with solder, put it back on the white plastic holder (with the spring), and it works like a charm. Now I want to jump the contacts on the turn signal switch, by passing the lever, to see if that contact is bad. The problem is, there are SIX wires going to it. Oranage/white, light blue/white, brown/white, light blue, grey, orange.

I could just randomly start jumping wires, but it would be a lot easier (and maybe save a fuse or two), if anyone knew what combination turns the signals on. :? :?:


When both turn signals are off, the brown/white wire feeds +12v to both the light blue/white (right front running light) and the orange/white (left front running light) wires. The grey (+12V) wire is not connected to anything.

The grey wire is +12v coming from the signal flasher.

When the turn signal is switched to "left", the brown/white wire is disconnected from the orange/white wire, so that the left front running light turns off. It remains connected to the light blue/white wire, leaving the right front running light turned on. At the same time, the grey wire is connected to the orange wire, feeding a pulsing +12v to the left turn light.

Similarly, when the turn signal is switched to "right", the brown/white wire is disconnected from the light blue/white wire, so that the right front running light turns off. It remains connected to the orange/white wire, leaving the left front running light turned on. At the same time, the grey wire is connected to the light blue wire, feeding a pulsing +12v to the right turn light.

Download the "Honda Goldwing GL1100 Interstate 1983 Color Schematic" file from the "Manuals" page and it should help it make it quite a bit clearer.

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby glasshead » Mon Sep 19, 2011 3:14 pm

Wow! Just what I asked for. Thanx. Just knowing those combinations tells me the problem is in the grey wire getting the pulsing voltage. The switch makes the turn signals go out like they should, but no turn signals. As soon as it stops raining, some time later in the week, I will go at it again. Putting this much time and effort into fixing problems is a real bonding experience with man and machine.


rich

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Re: 83 spedometer

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:29 pm

glasshead wrote:Wow! Just what I asked for. Thanx. Just knowing those combinations tells me the problem is in the grey wire getting the pulsing voltage. The switch makes the turn signals go out like they should, but no turn signals. As soon as it stops raining, some time later in the week, I will go at it again. Putting this much time and effort into fixing problems is a real bonding experience with man and machine.


Keep in mind that the turn signal will not pulse the +12V on the grey wire until there is a load there. If you just put a meter on it, you'll see just +12V. Once you put a load (i.e. light bulbs) on it, it should start pulsing (flashing).

If the turn signals just go out when you flick the switch, have a look at the flasher itself.




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