Fork tube stop rings


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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harkgold
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Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200 Interstate

Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:24 pm



I'm rebuilding the front forks on my '84 GL1200 Interstate and I'm in the process of removing the fork tubes.
All has gone smoothly to this point. I am now at the point where the manual instructs me to pull the fork tube out so that the top of the tube is half way between the top and lower pinch rings and then remove the stop ring from the upper part of the tube.
Problem is.....I can barely see the stop ring let alone remove it. I can feel that it is there but I can't for the life of me figure out how it comes off. None of the manuals are any help in saying specifically what the steps are, or what tools use to remove the stop rings. All they say is to remove them!
I'm sure it is probably a simpler process than I think.
Can someone tell me how this is done?

Thanks!

Harkgold :?:



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virgilmobile
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:54 pm

I bought my snap ring tool at Harbor Freight.It's universal,doesn't last long and is cheap but was enough to get the job done.You have to dig out enough gunk to get to the little hole in the end of the snap ring,insert the tool tips there squeeze and lift.
You may need 3 hands and a small pick or screwdriver to catch it and lift it out.
Hold your tongue to the left,squint your right eye,tap your foot 3 times and they pop right out. :lol:

harkgold
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:08 pm

virgilmobile wrote:I bought my snap ring tool at Harbor Freight.It's universal,doesn't last long and is cheap but was enough to get the job done.You have to dig out enough gunk to get to the little hole in the end of the snap ring,insert the tool tips there squeeze and lift.
You may need 3 hands and a small pick or screwdriver to catch it and lift it out.
Hold your tongue to the left,squint your right eye,tap your foot 3 times and they pop right out. :lol:


Thanks a bunch Virgilmobile! You know, I did see the little hole but didn't figure it was a snap ring. I do have a snap ring tool.
Thanks again!
Harkgold

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virgilmobile
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:23 pm

On mine,the snap ring was rusted badly,so I used a small flat blade screwdriver at a angle in the hole and tapped it till it moved the ring.Kinda broke it loose before I bent the snap ring tips off.
After it's off,it takes a bit of slamming to get the tube to pop out the seal.Also,I used a PVC coupler,split in half and then taped together on the fork to reset the seal.
There's a specific procedure for reassembly and checking the alignment.
If your not sure,I'll post the steps.
While there apart,you might as well make sure the forks are straight.I just roll them against each other and watch for gaps.

harkgold
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:58 pm

virgilmobile wrote:On mine,the snap ring was rusted badly,so I used a small flat blade screwdriver at a angle in the hole and tapped it till it moved the ring.Kinda broke it loose before I bent the snap ring tips off.
After it's off,it takes a bit of slamming to get the tube to pop out the seal.Also,I used a PVC coupler,split in half and then taped together on the fork to reset the seal.
There's a specific procedure for reassembly and checking the alignment.
If your not sure,I'll post the steps.
While there apart,you might as well make sure the forks are straight.I just roll them against each other and watch for gaps.


Thanks for the tips Virgilmobile!
Right after getting your response I grabbed my snap ring tool and went to the bike.
With my better glasses on I was able to find the small gap in the snap ring. I simply hooked an edge of the end fingernail and was able to raise it from the channel that it sits in and then with the other fingers work my way around between the fork tube and the ring until it finally popped out and slid off.
Surprisingly....mine were not rusted at all and came right out after I knew what I was looking for. They are made of much lighter spring wire than I expected.

If the steps for reassembly and aligning are different than what I have in my my shop manual, please go ahead and send me that information.

Thanks again!

Harkgold

bustedwing
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby bustedwing » Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:03 pm

here I had it all wrong, I was holding my tongue to the right all this time. No wonder I was having all them problems!
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dingdong
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby dingdong » Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:25 am

Glad you got it off. I think you and Virgil are talking about two different rings. The ring you are referring to is the outer "stop ring" that is used to align the tubes in the triple tree. And yes it can be removed with a fingernail.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

harkgold
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:33 am

dingdong wrote:Glad you got it off. I think you and Virgil are talking about two different rings. The ring you are referring to is the outer "stop ring" that is used to align the tubes in the triple tree. And yes it can be removed with a fingernail.


Yes, that's the ring dingdong and thanks for the download bustedwing!
Another question for you....
I've gotten the end cap off and springs removed from one of the forks and I'm now to the point of measuring the service limit length of each spring.
Again......I think I'm going to go into the instruction writing business because I'm certain I could do a better job than the people that write these service manuals.

The manual reads "Measure the uncompressed length of the fork springs (not rebound spring) as shown in figure 46. If the springs have sagged to the service limit dimensions listed in table 3 the spring must be replaced".

Now.....several questions come to mind. First of all what the heck is a rebound spring? No where in any of the illustrations in this chapter of the manual does it even show or describe what a rebound spring is.

Secondly......how do they define the word sagged? Does this mean that the spring has weakened and lengthened itself to a length longer than the service limit length described in table 3, or.....does it mean that the spring has weakened and being under compressed stress is now shorter than its service limit measurement?

Table 3 in my shop manual says the service limit for my springs are 6.4 inches for the short spring and 16.02 inches for the longer spring.
My springs actually measure 6-1/4" and 16" exactly. So based on the way the shop manual reads and the various ways its wording could be interpreted....are my springs still within service limit specs?
And the rebound spring is still a mystery. I'm guessing I can just ignore that part.


Thanks again!

Harkgold
:)

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dingdong
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby dingdong » Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:50 pm

Yup, Something lost in the translation. I'm not sure either what they mean by rebound spring. Service limit is when the spring gets "shorter" than the minimum specified length. Both of yours should be replaced as they are "shorter" than specified. Time for new Progressives.

Edit: When you go back on with the tubes be sure to push them all the way up to the stop ring. That aligns your air assist crossover holes in the proper position.
Tom

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virgilmobile
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Apr 03, 2012 1:41 pm

Rebound spring resides on the dampening rod/piston.You would remove the retainers,washers and spring off the bottom and push the rod out the top of the fork.

harkgold
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Tue Apr 03, 2012 1:53 pm

virgilmobile wrote:Rebound spring resides on the dampening rod/piston.You would remove the retainers,washers and spring off the bottom and push the rod out the top of the fork.


:) Thanks Virgilmobile!
Harkgold

harkgold
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Tue Apr 03, 2012 1:59 pm

dingdong wrote:Yup, Something lost in the translation. I'm not sure either what they mean by rebound spring. Service limit is when the spring gets "shorter" than the minimum specified length. Both of yours should be replaced as they are "shorter" than specified. Time for new Progressives.

Edit: When you go back on with the tubes be sure to push them all the way up to the stop ring. That aligns your air assist crossover holes in the proper position.


[b]Dang! Every corner I turn.....another few hundred bucks!!
I read somewhere where guys on a budget will squeeze a few more miles out of their springs by putting a one or two inch piece of PVC pipe as a spacer in on top of their old springs. Has anyone heard of this or had any experience with doing this?
[/b]


Harkgold :?:

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dingdong
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby dingdong » Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:56 pm

Common way to save a buck. I personally see nothing wrong with that if you are short on cash. Some guys do that just to stiffen the suspension.
Tom

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tricky
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby tricky » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:03 pm

For $67 get your self some progressives http://cyclemax.com/gl1200_other

harkgold
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Re: Fork tube stop rings

Postby harkgold » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:51 pm

Thanks guys for the info and the tips. Wow... $67.00 bucks isn't a bad price for progressives.
Regarding the PVC spacer method. I wonder how guys determine how thick of a spacer to use. Since my springs are not way out of spec I wonder if 1" would do it.
I just talked to a friend who just last month replaced his springs with Progressives, but said that three years prior he knew his springs were getting weak and didn't have the money at the time to replace them so he put 1-1/2" PVC spacers in each fork. He said the only reason he settled on 1-1/2" is because someone else suggested it. He said it did stiffen his front end a little and he noticed no detrimental affect on the bikes performance or tire wear and that overall he was quite happy with the PVC spacers.
I think the $67.00 would be hard to beat.




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