Brake Wisdom Needed

Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Posts: 33
Joined: Tue May 01, 2012 9:46 pm
Location: Lincoln, California
Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing, 2002 GL1800

Brake Wisdom Needed

Post by » Sat May 05, 2012 11:33 am

Looking to tape into some of the wisdom out there in siber space on a brake issue. I have owned a 85, Goldwing 1200, Interstate for a yr. now. It has been a great bike and I hope to keep it that way. Just replaced the rear rotor yesterday and took it for a test drive. I was concerned that the pads were dragging a wee bit but thought they might adjust during the initial ride. So I felt the rotor when I got off the bike and it was to hot to keep my hand on it, although they didn't smell hot.

My Question is how much clearance should be between pads and rotor, and how do you get that clearance?

The rear reservoir is at the full line, the brake fluid is clear looking. What should I be looking for as the possible cause of this issue?

Any insights will be helpful, I'm not a mechanic, but learning as I go.

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Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2011 11:57 am
Location: Coon Rapids MN
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200I 126k
2009 Honda Silverwing 15k -- the wife's scooter

Re: Brake Wisdom Needed

Post by skier » Sat May 05, 2012 11:51 am

The rear brakes on my '87 GL1200I were dragging last year, and I used the following How-To article on this site to free them up. The article is based on a GL1100, but very similar. Great article, and it worked for me. Learned a lot and got to dig into the bike at the same. Your rear brakes may just need some cleaning up (caliper pistons), but the article will help you do whatever is necessary. ... ?f=11&t=56

Welcome to the site!

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Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
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84 GL 1200 I

Re: Brake Wisdom Needed

Post by virgilmobile » Sat May 05, 2012 12:50 pm

It is always a good thing to service the whole system.If your going to do the calipers,you might just as well clean up both master cylinders and the front calipers too.I'm not talking about a complete replacement of all the seals,just take everything apart,clean all the corrosion out and flush new fluid through the whole thing.Calipers do not retract like old drum brakes but the wheel should turn with no dragging.Any drag and the caliper will get hot,heating up the fluid which will expand.If the master cylinder bleeder hole is plugged,it will cause a greater drag on the rotor as the caliper pushes the pads further out.
A tiny plugged bleeder in my front caliper,after 2 miles,locked up my front wheel.4 lane highway with a smoking brake.Not a really good start that day

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Re: Brake Wisdom Needed

Post by shocko » Thu May 17, 2012 12:03 pm

heat from the pads to theat transfered he rotor is normal ,, this may be normal lll!!! take the bike for a short ride ,using the brake a lot . stop put the bike on the center stand and try to turn the wheel: check if its dragging or free running,
good luck

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