alternator output


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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alsostuck
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alternator output

Postby alsostuck » Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:16 pm



How do I check the output of the alternator. 86 GL1200



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virgilmobile
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Re: alternator output

Postby virgilmobile » Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:02 pm

Easiest is with a good battery
Engine off 12.8 volts
Idle 12.2-13.5
3000 rpm
13.8-14.8
Current at the battery.At a idle from -3 amp to + 3 amp at 950 rpm after 5 minutes of running.
Current can peak at +15 amp after cranking and at 3000 rpm.
Are you having problems???

alsostuck
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Re: alternator output

Postby alsostuck » Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:33 pm

Not charging. It was intermittent but now nothing. I have checked the dogbone fuse, I have continuity through it. I am not sure how the plug comes out of the alternator to check it. Honestly, I am not sure where some of the components are. I have started to tear down the bike to also try to fix a sucking blowing noise, I heard from here, that its probably a vacuum hose. It will give me a chance to get to know this bike a bit better. I would rather be riding and I don't really have a good place to work on it. I have had parts stolen off of other bikes I have had. I have located a voltage regulator here locally at a Bike Boneyard for only $40. But I hate to buy a part I don't need. On the other hand, It may be a good part to keep nearby. So I suppose there is another test for the alternator. Voltage output or how much resistance should I be measuring? I think I have located the regulator, but everything except the dogbone, no Idea.

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virgilmobile
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Re: alternator output

Postby virgilmobile » Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:50 pm

Separate the terms.The bike has a stator in the engine and a rectifier/regulator under the shelter.
Either one can fail.
The most common fail point is electrical connections corroded.
There are 2 to look at.
First is the plug with the 3 yellow wires to the left of the battery.If corroded,cut and solder them.
The second is the plug at the regulator.
While everything is apart,check continuity on the 3 yellow wires.They should be near a dead short between any of the wires that go into the engine but no resistance to the engine itself.
There is also one wire on the regulator of interest.The black wire.It must have 12 volts on it during running to get the regulator to work.It's the monitor line.
Also with the 3 yellow wires UNHOOKED from the regulator,I measured about 35 volts AC at a idle between each pair(3 measurements)and upwards near 65volts at 3000 rpm.

alsostuck
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Re: alternator output

Postby alsostuck » Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:49 pm

I found a burnt plug on the regulator. This regulator has two plugs. The one thats burnt is the one with two yellow wires. Its not a total meltdown and the connections look like they can be cleaned. I do have 12 volts on the black wire, and good ac voltage comming from the alternator. I only measured 8 volts on the red/white wire from the regulator. I am assuming it is the regulator. Next question, I am noticing that most of the regulators out there have only one plug. If need be, is it possible to change a one plug to a two following color codes?

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virgilmobile
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Re: alternator output

Postby virgilmobile » Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:23 pm

I just don't remember any configuration of the system that used 2 plugs on a reg/rectifier module.Can you post anpix of it?Yes any gl1200 regulator SHOULD be able to be wired to work.

alsostuck
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Re: alternator output

Postby alsostuck » Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:53 pm

part no. SH574A-12 7.D
Attachments

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virgilmobile
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Re: alternator output

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:36 am

From what I gather,the regulator shown is a aftermarket replacement.
You certainly can replace it with one with a single plug.
Connect wire for wire.
The bike should have 3 yellows(no order) 2 green (both ground) 2 red (both output to the battery) and 1 black(switched ignition)

First,I'd repair the connections and re-test.

alsostuck
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Re: alternator output

Postby alsostuck » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:50 pm

I changed out the regulator today. I replaced it with one that came out of an 84. I cut the wires and using a crimp type butt splice. I rewired the old plugs into it. Its now charging fine and the voltage I am used to seeing on the console. I appreaciate all the comments on this subject that I have recieved.
I learned a lot about this bike this week and I'm glad its running again. One last question for all you folk, What is this thing? Computer for fuel injection?

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virgilmobile
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78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: alternator output

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:08 pm

That would be my guess.Mine is a carb type and doesn't have that.

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Re: alternator output

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:44 am

alsostuck wrote:I changed out the regulator today. I replaced it with one that came out of an 84. I cut the wires and using a crimp type butt splice. I rewired the old plugs into it. Its now charging fine and the voltage I am used to seeing on the console. I appreaciate all the comments on this subject that I have recieved.
I learned a lot about this bike this week and I'm glad its running again. One last question for all you folk, What is this thing? Computer for fuel injection?
hondapart.jpg


Honestly...the regulator handles an awful lot of current. The wires should be soldered together, not fastened with a crimped splice. Crimped splices can oxidize over time, creating resistance. Resistance creates heat, which creates more resistance, and before you know it you have melted splices/connectors and fried regulator and/or stators to deal with. Worst case scenario, a wire's insulation or a splice could melt creating a short, resulting in a fire - and the regulator is right next to the fuel petcock and rubber fuel line. There is no fuse on the stator wires, so a shorted stator wire could quite possibly cause a fire.

For the stator wires and regulator wires, the connections should be soldered, and insulated with heat shrink tubing.




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