Rear wheel
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- firstwing85
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:33 am
- Location: Aldergrove BC Canada
- Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
1983 V65 Magna
Re: Rear wheel
correct me if I'm wrong but isn't 88 the first year of the 1500s??
1200s are from 84 through 87
1200s are from 84 through 87
Johan
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- Posts: 124
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:19 pm
- Location: Olive Hill Kentucky
- Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.
Re: Rear wheel
1200 production stopped in 87
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- Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200
Re: Rear wheel
Yes I just found that out . The guy selling the rear wheel posted it as a 88/1200. I had no idea. I have found out that you can convert the 1500 wheel ,brake ,and final drive to a 1200 . Not sure if I want to go that route . Thanks again Tim
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- Posts: 124
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:19 pm
- Location: Olive Hill Kentucky
- Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.
Re: Rear wheel
You can covert to the 1500 final drive and wheel though it takes a bit of brake mod etc. My bikes arent but I havent heard of anyone saying they regretted doing it.
This is a guess but if you looking for a wheel is it because the rear wheel bearing is loose in the hub? Mine did that, just fell out when changing a tire
A friend of mine tried a fix so I tried it also and so far its worked fine for me. Get a new bearing, some permatex sleeve retainer put it on the bearing insert the bearing and pin it with a punch. Let it set for 24 hours. Ive ridden mine hard since and it is holding up fine. I have a spare wheel that did the same thing which I will take to a machine shop and have them bore the hub and put in a steel insert that uses the orginal bearing size which was hondas fix for the problem when it was discovered.
Might not be your problem but usually when some one is looking for a rear wheel for a 12oo that is the reason
This is a guess but if you looking for a wheel is it because the rear wheel bearing is loose in the hub? Mine did that, just fell out when changing a tire

A friend of mine tried a fix so I tried it also and so far its worked fine for me. Get a new bearing, some permatex sleeve retainer put it on the bearing insert the bearing and pin it with a punch. Let it set for 24 hours. Ive ridden mine hard since and it is holding up fine. I have a spare wheel that did the same thing which I will take to a machine shop and have them bore the hub and put in a steel insert that uses the orginal bearing size which was hondas fix for the problem when it was discovered.
Might not be your problem but usually when some one is looking for a rear wheel for a 12oo that is the reason

- tech1
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:21 pm
- Location: East Moline IL
- Motorcycle: 1986 Goldwing 1200 SE-i Aspencade
2009 audo comfort
GL1800
Re: Rear wheel
Hello I have a spare 1200 rear wheel i will sell you.
Tech1
Tech1
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 8:36 pm
- Location: Ocean Isle Beach, North Carolina
- Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200
Re: Rear wheel
Thanks guys. Yes it is the inner wheel bearing .it clicks when you roll backwards.also has play on axle.
- WingAdmin
- Site Admin
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- Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer
Re: Rear wheel
Those bearings are not all that hard to replace - you can do it in around half an hour, and the bearings are commonly available.Tcorcoran wrote:Thanks guys. Yes it is the inner wheel bearing .it clicks when you roll backwards.also has play on axle.
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- Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.
Re: Rear wheel
Hes probably having the same problem quite a few of us have run into on 1200 wheels. The bearing isnt what is bad. And I venture that what he thinks is play on the axle, which I thought at first because you can go up on center stand and yank the wheel side to side and get clunking and some play side to side, isnt bearing play on the axle at all.
On quite a few 1200 rear wheels the aluminum hub will wallow slightly due to the weight and constant pounding. This gives enough clearance around the outside of the bearing that when the wheel is off the bearing will actually fall out of hub in most cases. The clicking either rolling up to a stop or backing up is a dead giveaway. The clicking will become clacking if its ridden long enough
I rode mine for about a year like this. When changing the tire we would put the wheel on have side to play take it off put it back on and sometimes it would settle until the the next time the wheel was off. But finally it will get to the point that the side to side wheel play is there all the time.
Putting a new bearing in wont fix it since the hub is what is wallowed out slightly, not a bad bearing. Dont ask me how I know
Cheap fix that works most of the time is to pin and use sleeve retainer from permatex on the outside of the bearing. Its worked for me for quite a while now.
Another wheel is an option too if it doesnt have the same problem or doesnt develope it later.
Only sure permanent fixes I know of are 1 convert to a 1500 final and wheel. 2 Have the hub machined and steel insert pressed in that accepts the stock bearing. Usually machining will cost about the same as a used wheel.
A heads up on the replacement wheel if you go that route. 84 and 85 driven flange pins are different than 86 87 driven flange pins. They wheels will interchange fine between the year models as long as you get the driven flange with the wheel as the splines etc are the same only the pins on the flanges are different.
On quite a few 1200 rear wheels the aluminum hub will wallow slightly due to the weight and constant pounding. This gives enough clearance around the outside of the bearing that when the wheel is off the bearing will actually fall out of hub in most cases. The clicking either rolling up to a stop or backing up is a dead giveaway. The clicking will become clacking if its ridden long enough

Putting a new bearing in wont fix it since the hub is what is wallowed out slightly, not a bad bearing. Dont ask me how I know

Cheap fix that works most of the time is to pin and use sleeve retainer from permatex on the outside of the bearing. Its worked for me for quite a while now.
Another wheel is an option too if it doesnt have the same problem or doesnt develope it later.
Only sure permanent fixes I know of are 1 convert to a 1500 final and wheel. 2 Have the hub machined and steel insert pressed in that accepts the stock bearing. Usually machining will cost about the same as a used wheel.
A heads up on the replacement wheel if you go that route. 84 and 85 driven flange pins are different than 86 87 driven flange pins. They wheels will interchange fine between the year models as long as you get the driven flange with the wheel as the splines etc are the same only the pins on the flanges are different.
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 8:36 pm
- Location: Ocean Isle Beach, North Carolina
- Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200
Re: Rear wheel
Thanks for the info . Tech1 has a wheel .i will get that one .found a guy in Canada that will reduce the wheel completely .new drive bushing as well as bearing fix . I planning on sending mine to him .
Thanks again guys .
Thanks again guys .