removing screws inside of airbox


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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tprender
Posts: 188
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 9:11 pm
Location: St Louis, Mo
Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200
1995 GL1500SE

removing screws inside of airbox

Postby tprender » Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:56 pm



I came across a '86 a few weeks ago that had been setting for 4 yrs with only 37,000 miles. I am getting ready to take the carbs off and clean them. After taking the filter out, I started to remove the 4 screws that hold the airbox onto the carb and 1 of the screws came out. The other 3 would only turn and not come out. I tried to pry up the box up and put pressure on the screws, they still did not come out. Does anyone know of a trick to get the screws out other than drilling off the heads. I am not worried about the metal getting into the carbs when I am drilling them out, being that they will be taken apart and cleaned. Also, does anyone have any experience with this carb kit from Randakk http://www.randakks.com/Carb%20Parts.htm#9B or do I just the basic kit for about $15?



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bwagner6
Posts: 88
Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 6:16 pm
Location: Norwalk, Ohio
Motorcycle: 1986 Gl1200A Aspencade

Re: removing screws inside of airbox

Postby bwagner6 » Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:11 pm

If the screws are turning but not backing out then the holes are stripped... not the end of the world. You will probably end up drilling them out and tapping the holes out a size or two bigger. As far as the rebuild kit go with the master kit... you will be glad you did as all the necessary parts are included and are high quality. Good luck with your project! :)

rdraidr
Posts: 75
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 7:02 am
Location: Roswell, New Mexico
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200A

Re: removing screws inside of airbox

Postby rdraidr » Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:32 pm

If you have needle-nosed vise grips, you can clamp on the head of each screw and turn counterclockwise (lefty loosie) and turn them out.?

tprender
Posts: 188
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 9:11 pm
Location: St Louis, Mo
Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200
1995 GL1500SE

Re: removing screws inside of airbox

Postby tprender » Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:24 pm

Went an drilled some and finished up with the dremel tool to get the screws out. Ended up pulling the studs/nuts out of the base that is on top of the carbs. When I put it back together will have to figure out some way to mount the housing on top of the plate. Unless, some one has one of these plates setting around on a junk set of carbs.

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feetup
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75 GL 1000 (in pieces)
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'56 Norton 600

Re: removing screws inside of airbox

Postby feetup » Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:24 am

I had the same problem. The threaded inserts in the plastic top plate were seized to the screws and just turned in the plastic. There really isn't an effective way to hold them, even if you could reach them.
I also noticed that the plastic top plate had taken on quite a ripple where the air cleaner seals against it, making the sealing of the air cleaner against the plenum rather iffy.
I cut a plate from 3/16" aluminum and mounted it to the bottom of the plastic with drilled and tapped holes, using 6 flat head, countersunk 5 mm stainless screws with a liberal dose of blue locktite. Then I drilled and tapped the air cleaner mounting holes to fit. ( 5 mm I think.) This keeps the plastic flat for the air cleaner element, and gives me new threads for the housing screws.

Keeping the air inlet tract sealed, from the air cleaner all the way to the cylinder head, is extremely important. Dust will find it's way into the smallest of cracks as you know if you have ever ridden a few miles of gravel on a road construction site. It doesn't take very much dust from such a road to permanently damage the cylinder walls and piston rings. I have seen instances where large diesel engines were destroyed in less that 3 months because of loose clamps on the air inlet pipe, a production flaw that cost Kenworth a lot of money.

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WingAdmin
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Re: removing screws inside of airbox

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:41 am

feetup wrote:I had the same problem. The threaded inserts in the plastic top plate were seized to the screws and just turned in the plastic. There really isn't an effective way to hold them, even if you could reach them.


I've fixed this kind of problem before by using a soldering gun, and pressing the gun element into the brass insert. It heats up the insert, which melts the ABS surrounding it. Not too much - you don't want to damage the plastic. Once the plastic has melted a bit, remove the gun, wiggle the insert just a tiny bit to get it well seated into the melted plastic, and let the insert cool. The ridges on the outside of the insert then "bite" into the newly solidified plastic, holding it in place.




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