Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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BikerNewsman
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Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby BikerNewsman » Sat Oct 20, 2012 2:56 pm



This weekends fun is replacing the rear wheel bearings that just began clicking. When I got the wheel removed, and was wiping excess grease from the driven flange with the wheel laying flat on a drop-cloth, I noticed it (the flange) had a small amount of "wiggle", then when I removed the brake disk bolts I heard the flange sort of click like it was seating itself. After I turned the tire over I found the flange no longer had the wiggle and was firmly against the hub. The flange was seated well, and only required moderate coaxing with a small pry bar to remove. An inspection of the rubber dampers and posts showed they were all in great condition. I'm surprised that with everything else apparantly in good condition (not counting the bearings) there was wiggle in the flange, even though the brake disk bolts/nuts seemed sufficiently tight before removal. Is this wiggle normal when the flange is properly installed???


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tom84std
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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby tom84std » Sat Oct 20, 2012 7:05 pm

I may be an ignorant **** at this stage of the game, but what you describe is a tolerance. The splined and driven flange is connected to the road via the wheel and tire. There needs to be some sort of "give" or "cushion" so everything is rubber mounted. There's rubber sleeves, steel sleeves mounted inside the rubber ones. An array of them in a circular pattern in which another part must fit a sort of "spider" arrangement of bolts into fairly close tolerance holes. There must be some tolerance for that to be manageable. Inspect everything and by all means clean everything. Don't expect that spider to be tight without "wiggle". Just clean and correctly lubricate everything, reassemble, inspect, and ride the hell outta it.

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kwild
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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby kwild » Sat Oct 20, 2012 7:27 pm

Yup, it's normal. The 1200 makes all kinds of racket. Lube the drive gear/ flange liberally with molly 60.
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Ghostrider52005
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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby Ghostrider52005 » Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:16 pm

Also while you have it off check that the wheel bearing is tight in the hub. Some will just fall out from wallowing out the aluminum hub. Have two wheels one that came with the bike and one this is on it that did it. That clicking is one of the first signs of the hub wallowing out. If it is youll be able to just stick your finger in the bearing and yank it out or it may just fall out. Replacing the bearing wont help if that is the case. :(

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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby kwild » Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:43 pm

You could use a ball peen hammer to correct the edges around the bearing. Use light blows. Here's an example of how to peen.


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Ghostrider52005
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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby Ghostrider52005 » Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:45 pm

That is what we did to my LTD. Only also used permatex sleeve retainer on the outside of the bearing. coated it seated it peened it in and let it set 24 hours. bout 5000 miles and its still tight.
Ill have the spare wheels hub machined, steel insert pressed in sized to use the stock size bearing in case the peen job lets go. The steel insert should be a permanent fix.

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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby BikerNewsman » Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:33 pm

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. :) Both sets of bearings were firmly seated in the hub and required removal with a brass punch. It appears the PO did, or had done, a halfway job however. One set of bearings was sealed, the other was not. Of course the non-sealed set is the one that had failed. I thoroughly cleaned the hub and flange, applied grease inside the hub as Clymer recommended, then reassembled everything. The new bearings ( both sets sealed of course) fit firmly and required the use of a hammer and socket to install. The only problem I experienced was one of the brake disk bolts broke as I was torquing the nut according to spec. I assume I can find a replacement at one of the local parts stores, but in case I am not able to does anyone know of an online source for these?

Also, the rubber bushings for the flange studs were in perfect shape, however I was unable to figure out how I would have removed them had they not been. Any information concerning how I would go about this should it be needed in the future would be greatly appreciated. Clymer only says to replace them if worn. Couldn't find anything there about how to do so.
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tom84std
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Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby tom84std » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:12 am

The only good way to remove those bushings is with a hydraulic press although I suppose you could do it with a hammer and the correct punch and a receiver socket. These rubber parts normally last for the life of the bike and don't need replacing. I was able to replace a clicking wheel bearing once on the road in the small town of Gunnison Colorado. I replaced the clicking shielded bearings with the only ones available, unshielded. The unshielded ones never failed although I did replace them a year later. We were staying in a small privately owned motel and I asked the owner if it would be OK for me to fix the bike in the parking lot. He said yes and let me do it. He even brought some old motel towels to me to use while doing it. 1200 miles from home but with everything I needed thanks to my big tool bag!

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BikerNewsman
Posts: 77
Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:22 pm
Location: Hondo, TX
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 Limited - Anniversary Edition

Previously owned:
1969 HD Sporty
1974 Yamaha 650

Re: Rear Wheel Bearings/Final Driven Flange Question

Postby BikerNewsman » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:22 pm

Thanks for the info Tom. Guess it's a good thing the bushings seem to be as good as new! :) Glad you had a good experience with the motel owner. I've found in my travels that people are pretty helpful in circumstances like that if you'll just be honest and give them a chance.


"It ain't about the miles, it's all about the smiles".
My (non-commercial) motorcycle blog = http://dixieriders.wordpress.com/purpose/


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