1984 GL1200 Stator


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Warrensocal
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 4:56 am
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200 Aspencade, 1978 GL1000

1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby Warrensocal » Mon May 25, 2009 5:23 am



Hi... new member here. I bought a 1984 GL1200 from a guy who said the stator was bad. I picked it up in San Luis Obisbo, CA and drove it to Orange County, a distance of about 180 miles and the battery was still fully charged. The selenoid wires get hot and the electrical system will go completely dead without warning even when I'm cruising along. After it sits for a while (sometimes 30 minutes sometimes a few hours) the electrical system will just start working without doing anything else. Also the battery will go dead if it just sits for a few days. Theis doesn't seem like the stator to me but more like a short or bad connection somewhere. Has anyone had or know of similar problems with the electrical system and if so what is the solution?

I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Warren



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WingAdmin
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Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Tue May 26, 2009 11:59 am

Have you checked the output of the stator to see if it was in fact bad or not?

The solenoid has power going to it (to the starter) directly from the battery, even when the bike is turned off, so if there is a problem with it, it could certainly drain the battery when the bike is off.

I'd start by disconnecting the battery, then measuring resistance on the "hot" side of the solenoid to ground. It should be an open circuit - if you're seeing resistance there, then there's something wrong.

flojo
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby flojo » Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:26 pm

Hey,
I have an 86 aspencade and was on a trip to Reno when I developed serious electrical problems-no charge in the battery, bike dead on the side of the road. Had it towed to a honda shop(ouch) and it was diagnosed as a bad stator--that will be 1200 dollars please.

Instead of spending the 1200, I bought two batteries and drove back to the coast. I took the bike to an honest mechanic that I know and he found the problem to be not the stator but a plastic connecter that connects the the system to the stator. He replaced that $4.00 part for me and I then took it on a 6 state trip and had no problems--here it is a year later and the "bad stator" is doing just fine thank you. this connection is underneath the right side cover-it is white plastic and mine had some black marks on it from the connection frying-you might want to look at that-

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WingAdmin
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Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
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2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:12 pm

Yup, the famous "three yellow wires." Have a look here, there's a post with pictures that describes the problem.

Roleketu
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby Roleketu » Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:06 am

I bought a 86 GL1200 and the stator connector was melted so I installed a modified wiring harness from The Electrical Connection. See http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_gl1200_charge.htm The kit uses larger gauge wire for the three yellow stator wires, and a relay to power the coils from the battery instead of the variable voltage of the stator. Also includes connection to both battery posts using two fuses. One warning, make sure you practice your wire soldering skills. You need to solder the three stator wires and all except one wire on the voltage regulator.

dewey24
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:11 am
Location: doylestown, pa
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200 Aspencade

Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby dewey24 » Sun Aug 09, 2009 2:22 pm

I just copied this reply I sent to to "Charging Problems" Aug 8 as I think your stator problem is one and the same. It is also the same solution as the previous poster.

I bought a 1987 GL1200 Aspencade several years ago with 60,000 miles. The bike ran well mechanically but it developed mysterious electrical problems. The radio would become weak and had static intermittently, really most of the time. Occasionally, the entire front panel display would dim or flash on and off. Lights would run dim, then brighten. And most of all, the battery would need constant recharging; sometimes even a short trip would drain the battery. I only rode locally. Twice, the bike flat out died on the road; I had to put a battery in it to get home. I couldn't ride it anywhere as it was totally unreliable but I knew it was still a good bike.
I read about the stator problems and figured this was the problem. I looked at the stator wiring plug to the left of the battery and it was fairly well fried.
Two different mechanics said they couldn't figure out the problem. After reading as much as I could find on the internet about this, and having little mechanical and no wiring experience, I decided to order a supplementary wiring harness made by "Electrical Connection" and install it myself. It re-routes all the wires from the regulator, stator and coils and with higher gauge wiring. I am no way affiliated with this company. I just read about the stator/coil harness after searching the net. (http://www.electricalconnection.com/wir ... charge.htm) I also found someone else's comments about this wiring harness on geocities (http://www.geocities.com/captjerry4/stator.html).
Well, I worked slowly but steadily and installed the harness; it took me quite a bit longer than the guy from geocities. It took me at least a week, working a couple hours at night, slowly and deliberately. I downloaded manuals from this website and also got a Clymer.
After I finished, I thought the bike may never run again. The bike fired up instantly. I was shocked. Bottom line, it is like a new bike. Zero electrical problems. In fact, lights are brighter, radio is louder, bike is actually faster. I have put 1500 miles on it in just several weeks after the fix, and not a single problem, and never put the trickle charger on it again. It is a joy to ride. I have a couple long overnighters.
Lastly, I never tested to see if my stator was bad. I thought if the bike was still running, it wasn't cooked yet. Hope this helps.

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maestro319
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Motorcycle: 1986 Honda Goldwing 1200 Aspencade

Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby maestro319 » Wed May 12, 2010 8:52 am

Being new to motorcycles and motorcycle engines I'm going to ask a question here that most of you probably already know the answer to: What is a stator and what does it do?
I have an '86 Aspencade and don't want to get "stranded" somewhere.

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WingAdmin
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Wed May 12, 2010 10:00 am

The stator is like the alternator in a car: it is spun by the engine and generates electricity to charge the battery and run the electrical things on the motorcycle.

An alternator has a stator in it as well. The difference being in an alternator, there are field coils - electromagnets - that are energized by the regulator. This sets up a magnetic field for the stator windings to generate electricity from as they are spun by the engine. The regulator ensures the correct amount of power is being generated by altering the amount of power going into the field coils.

In our motorcycles, instead of a field coil, there are permanent magnets that are spun by the engine. This generates power in the stator coils. The amount of power generated is dependent on the speed of the engine. At speed, the stator is generating FULL power, whether the bike needs it or not. The regulator in the bike shunts some of this unneeded power to ground, wasting it as heat - which is why the regulator on our bikes gets so hot.

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maestro319
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby maestro319 » Wed May 12, 2010 10:31 am

Very good explanation. Thank you!!

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Devil-Doc
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby Devil-Doc » Sun Oct 09, 2011 8:39 pm

Do you still have the bike? What's been going on with it since your last post in 2009? I'm trying to buy a 1984 Aspencade shortley.

pudd750
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Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby pudd750 » Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:04 pm

Roleketu wrote:I bought a 86 GL1200 and the stator connector was melted so I installed a modified wiring harness from The Electrical Connection. See http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_gl1200_charge.htm The kit uses larger gauge wire for the three yellow stator wires, and a relay to power the coils from the battery instead of the variable voltage of the stator. Also includes connection to both battery posts using two fuses. One warning, make sure you practice your wire soldering skills. You need to solder the three stator wires and all except one wire on the voltage regulator.

interesting- also directly feeds the coils - (this subharness)-, weak coil feed is a known issue on early/mid 80s CB bikes too--
oils etc travel over time inside wires insulators making soldering no fun at best-sometimes quite a bit of wire needs to be removed to find wire that will accept tinning

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WingAdmin
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1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 1984 GL1200 Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:45 pm

pudd750 wrote:interesting- also directly feeds the coils - (this subharness)-, weak coil feed is a known issue on early/mid 80s CB bikes too--
oils etc travel over time inside wires insulators making soldering no fun at best-sometimes quite a bit of wire needs to be removed to find wire that will accept tinning


This is fairly common with wires that are crimped onto connectors, then subjected to heat. The insulation around the wires can retract, allowing air in, which corrodes the copper inside the wire; and this makes the wire impossible to solder, as you have discovered.

You have a couple of options. If you can cut back the wire to get to bright, shiny, non-corroded copper, and still make the connection work, then that will work fine. You may need to cut back a fair ways, then splice in a new piece of wire to replace what was cut out.

If you don't have the option of cutting wire back (i.e. it disappears into a harness, etc.) you can expose the corroded copper, take fine sandpaper, and gently sand the exposed wire. A fine-grain nail file works well for this as well. It will take the corrosion off, leaving shiny copper exposed. Once you've got a good amount of this exposed, you can then solder to it. You have to be careful - it's easy to get individual strands of copper separated, and they can be easily broken off if you're not careful.

I expect you could probably use an acidic solution (muriatic acid springs to mind, although I haven't tried it) to take the oxidated portion off, leaving behind solderable copper - but make sure you rinse the acid off well with water before soldering.




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