!984 stator replacent...

[DC46]

I just performed stator ohm check today, it shows continuity to ground...Looks like I ll be pulling motor...You seem to know so I`m gonna ask(there are no dumb ?`s rite)...Other then stator, rear engine cover gasket, clutch cover plate gasket, stator plug Oring...IS there anything else I should think about ordering or any words of wisdom about procedure?...I did head gaskets last year but now we are talking about new animal...Thanx and appreciate, Dale...

[HALBUDD]

Dale have you thought about a poor boy up grade, will give you alot more power and is easy to fix if it breaks down. --------------------Hal

[DC46]

Yeah I look into and seen photo, LOOKS like a tit on a bore, just asoon pull motor and keep my WINGS...Thanx tho...

[HALBUDD]

There are two types,one that is on the out side of the bikeand your right it looks like crap. The other is all contained inside your lower front plastic,you will not see anything. Just my two cents I have an 84 and a 85 if the stators go out Im going with the poor boy kit just so I dont have to pull the engine out every time the stator goes out. Good luck with your project. ----------------------Hal

[DC46]

Dont get me wrong, from my understanding its about a 600 dollar retrofit???...Well this poorboy has the time to pull motor for the 150.00 stator cost...AND it gets me up close and personal with bike...Besides that, the 1st stator made it some 28 yrs and I think I found problem with melted connector plug which will be soldered straight thru this time...IF you like it go for it, just sounds like same amount of work to me...Ride careful man...

[virgilmobile]

Before you button it all up....look at the pulse coil plug and the regulator plug.Mine had enough corrosion that I didn't see to upset the charging system a bit.I soldered everything associated with it and added the relay to operate the regulator switched wire.The bike has the most stable charging system I've seen.
14.1 volt at a idle and peaks at 14.4.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12522

[DC46]

When I checked stator plug it was melted as a mechanic told me it might be (will solder new one)...Is there another plug?...ALSO I just did a cylinder compression check because when first started it would bellow out whitish smoke and then quit when warm, plug a lil coolant loss...The book says 185 psi here is what I found, left side 2 and 4 at 160 psi...Right side 3 was 160 and 1 was 155 psi...The strange thing is number 1 had like steam rising up from plug hole when I was checking rest...It was ony one that steamed...Any thoughts?...Thanx...

[SilverDave]

I am with you, DC 46 !!!
I'd rather have the " original " ideas, too
Its not the Engineers fault that the #$%@^ three yellow wire plug could not do the job...

If you cut and solder those 3 wires, and check ( and possibly hard solder) all the other wires at the rect / reg ..... and clean up the battery, and braided ground strap... ( and sadly, in your case re and re the defunct Stator )

.......... then you have the electrical system back to where the Honda folk of 25 years ago had it in mind... and it will work very well if brought back to those specs.

Aside from the parts, for a newer Alt, and all the work, and fairing mods, and belt adapters for a "Poor-Boy " retro
I am still not convinced that taking off Alternator power from any of the moving parts in the front area is a sound engineering idea ...
Only Time will tell...

But when my stator goes south... I intend to also replace it with a newer aftermarket Stator.

Three comments :
a) Electrical connections makes larger Gauge wiring harness for the 1200... If you are replacing the Stator, its a good time to install it :

http://www.electricalconnection.com/wir ... charge.htm

b) What type of aftermarket Stator did you choose ? ( I know that they are all much better than the OEM ever was).

c) I once read , but have never actually seen , that its possible to re- and re the stator, while still in the frame , by tipping and twisting the loosened motor sideways, just a bit .
Did you try that ? Or did you just haul the entire motor out ?


Enjoy your FCW !!

SilverDave

[DC46]

Hey Silver, I went ahead and pulled motor this morning, went well considering a 1st timer on a bike but with manual in hand and the video here only trouble was fear of unknown`s...IT`S sitting on floor now...AS far as aftermarket brand I didnt research which was better so I went medium price of 140.00...Parts should be in next week...CAN anyone tell me how to clean exhaust pipes WITHOUT making them looked scratched up?...They are not blueish just dirty and maybe few spots of rust or whatever, pretty good shape for the age...

[virgilmobile]

I use crumpled aluminum foil and white vinegar.
I'm also unconventional and cheap.

[Paradise97401]

I just got done rebuilding my motor..but I also did an 84 for a guy, and I use stators from Rick's, I haven't had any of them give me a problem. but I also have a 85 1200 currently on the bench going through a complete rebuild, and it had a Alt conversion on it..and it did damage to the front main bearing do to the stress of the pull on the end of the crank, so just an FYI for those that are looking at that. I don't agree or dis agree with doing one of those alt conversions, I just know what I have seen. But I am pro stock, and have seen a few stators (OEM Honda) go out, and the ones I put in keep 14.1 volts across the entire RPM spectrum.

[DC46]

Hey Paradise, it was a Ricks stator I put in today...Fired it up and at idle it had 14.9 volts...Took me all day but how much did I save doing myself?...1500 maybe?...Doesnt matter, I know my wing a whole lot better...Have a great day guys...

[virgilmobile]

14.9 at a idle is way to high.
The battery really needs to be maxed out closer to 14.3 at 3500 rpm and usually floats near 13.8 at a idle.
Sustained 14.9 And higher will boil the battery and destroy it.
There is a test for why it's too high and a mod to stabilize it.
"Search" soldering.
Virgil

[DC46]

CHARGING OUTPUT SPECIFICATIONS (At hi-beam)
ENGINE PRM AMPERAGE VOLTAGE
950 min-l (rpm) (-)l-OA ABOVE 12V
3,000 min-I (rpm) (+) D-SA 14-15V
5,000 min-I (rpm) (+) O-SA 14-15V

This is what the service manual says...When I checked it was about 1500 rpm, I will check at the other specified rpm`s and hope for best...

[virgilmobile]

By the book is OK but don't forget,the specs were written for the home test and in those years the average owner did not have acess to digital meters.
Thus the spec of 14-15 volts.
Generally I've seen,if charging volts creeps up more toward the 15 volt range,the battery tends to boil more.
My 1100 hovered around 14.9 at 3000 rpm.Every 2 months I was adding water to the battery.
I rode it near every day.

[DC46]

I just checked at the 3000 and 5000 and with high beam and it actually lowered to 14.5...The book also says if it goes higher than 15 suspect the regulator/ rectifier...I will keep an eye on it but I believe to be fine...Appreciate the feedback, keeps the wheels turning...

[virgilmobile]

If I were a bettin man....you have the typical voltage drop problem I've seen in most bikes in this era.As it gets worse the voltage will creep up.
The check...Use a DVM positive lead on the battery positive post,attach the DVM negative lead to the black wire at the regulator.
Start the bike.
An ideal reading would be zero volts.borderline is around 0.4 volts.
I've measured as much as 1.25 volts.
Any voltage drop to the regulator is compensated by the regulator raising the output volts.
Unfortunately this also increases the volts to the battery.
When I see a significant drop,I use a relay to switch battery volts direct to the regulator using the harness wire to operate the relay.This gives the regulator a accurate battery reference voltage by bypassing the corroded bikes wiring.