start a 1994 Goldwing after 5 years


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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mikep64ep
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:30 am
Location: El Paso, Texas
Motorcycle: 1994 Goldwing Aspencade

start a 1994 Goldwing after 5 years

Postby mikep64ep » Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:34 am



I would like any suggestions on what to do prior trying to start the bike that has not been running for 5 years.
Thank you all.



User avatar
WA9FWT
Posts: 828
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2009 12:19 pm
Location: sheboygan WI U.S. A.
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade Now a Trike
1975 Cb750K sold

Re: start a 1994 Goldwing after 5 years

Postby WA9FWT » Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:23 pm

Now that is a good question to get started on this site. First I want to welcome you to the best site out there, bar none from Sheboygan, Wi...The list would be long to get started, so I will only mention a few,and others will chime in. Before you crank that engine, I would remove all the fuel if it has any ? Then remove the spark plugs to make sure it even turns over. Of coarse have a good battery too. Check compression to see what state that engine is in. This is only a start so give it a try ! Like I say there is a lot more to get it road worthy .

WA9FWT Phil

mikep64ep
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:30 am
Location: El Paso, Texas
Motorcycle: 1994 Goldwing Aspencade

Re: start a 1994 Goldwing after 5 years

Postby mikep64ep » Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:05 pm

Thank you for the reply and I hope I get more input.

highplainsbubba
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon May 31, 2010 2:44 pm
Location: Calhan Colorado
Motorcycle: 1986 GL1200 Interstate

Re: start a 1994 Goldwing after 5 years

Postby highplainsbubba » Wed May 01, 2013 9:07 am

I spent 5 years away from my home working as a defense contractor in the US and Baghdad. When I got home, I tried to start my bike. This was after doing all the normal things like a service check and replacing the battery. One thing I didn't mention was I left a full water bottle in the back trunk. It froze and split during the winter and during the summer, a crop of mildew grew in the back trunk. My helmet was in there as well. It was filled with fuzz when I got back and I had to replace it.

The bike would not run very well. It was coughing and sputtering and missing on one cylinder. Question was, which cylinder? I tried all the usual things like putting carb cleaner in it and that didn't help. I put a Carb stick carb balancer on the bike and ran it again. Watching the mercury levels in the tubes, I could see it was the number 3 cylinder that was missing. I finally broke down and removed the carb. I pulled the bowIs off the bottom and removed the jets. I found the jets in the carb were not necessarily gummed up, but corroded. After cleaning the jets and getting the carb put back together, I decided to drill out the pilot jet plugs and check the mixture. I am living at 6500 feet on the high prairie of Colorado and had no idea where the carbs were set. They were set at the default of 2 and a half turns. I turned them down to 1/2 turn, the default setting over 2000 feet altitude, and put the carb back on the bike. It ran well, so I balanced the carbs and now my bike hums like a sewing machine. It will start within one turn of the crank. The lean setting on the pilot jets means that during cold weather, I have to run with the choke on for quite a while. As some of you may know, the "density altitude" can vary quite a bit with temperature. Here in Colorado, it can go as high as 10,000 feet from the elevation of my home, which is 6500 feet. So when the temperature approaches 100 degrees, the engine is seeing an air density altitude much higher than the elevation. At lower temps (which I don't ride in often) the engine can see as little as 4,000 feet density altitude.

Hope this helps.




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