Fork Seals, GL1200


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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drtimm@att.net
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Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby drtimm@att.net » Mon Jun 23, 2014 5:45 pm



Could use some insights from someone who has rebuilt there fork seals. Just rebuilt mine and followed the repair manual step by step. Replaced both as the right one was leaking at 130,000 miles. Now they both are leaking. I'm thinking perhaps I didn't use enough force in setting the seals. I am sure, although I haven't torn the bike back down, that the seals were put in correctly.

Any advise from anyone who has been down this road. Thanks


dennis timm
Sac. CA



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MikeB
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby MikeB » Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:28 pm

Normally Dennis, you can't go wrong with seal replacement when you use the Honda OEM seals. I have used Leak Proof seals by Thunder Products before and they leaked in less than a week. After talking to the local jobber, he said that all of those seals had problems. Never again for Leak Proof. Once the Honda OEM seals were installed, all was well. I don't know of anything else you can do once they start leaking except take it apart and try again.
MikeB
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made2care
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby made2care » Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:06 am

I'm restoring an 87. 3rd bike , all different models. Found out the hard way that everything is relative, which can ultimately lead to the dreaded " cause and effect"!! With that being said, I removed the shocks and took them down to the local shop. The next day I picked them up, and they looked great. They also replaced some parts, ie: bushings , which I'm sure on this bike had never been done.
No hassle, since these shops have the appropriate tools, they can get some of my cash. And what's great is ,I worked on other areas whilst the forks were in the shop.
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tprender
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby tprender » Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:09 pm

Just wondering if when you put the seals in, did you grease them so that they would slide over the tubes and not hang up? Also, you have to watch how you put the tubes back in. I have seen people mess one of the 2 seal rings up when putting in the fork tubes.

drtimm@att.net
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby drtimm@att.net » Tue Jun 24, 2014 8:53 pm

Thanks for all your tips guys. I will take in all into consideration as I redo the task of rebuilding the forks. FYI, yes I did oil the forks before I slid the seals on.

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jhngardner367
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby jhngardner367 » Thu Jun 26, 2014 12:58 am

I've found,that when replacing the fork seals on a higher-mileage bike,it's best to also replace the bushings(both sets),as the forks will have a tendency to leak,due to minute "tilting" caused by the worn bushings.
Also,I don't run air in my forks,especially since I installed Progressive springs.
The best seals in the world won't seal on a tube that has sloppy bushings.
I'm busier than a one-legged cat,in a sandbox !
I can't fix it,if it ain't broke...you want me to break it,first ???

Give me a Goldwing,...or give me Viagra,cuz either way, I'm gonna ride !

drtimm@att.net
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby drtimm@att.net » Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:46 am

Did replace the bushings & pistons and went with progressive springs without air. Leaked anyway. However, the seals were aftermarket. Going with Honda OEM's this time around. Thanks for your input.

Dogsled
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby Dogsled » Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:19 am

I put OEM's in and both leaked....I was gonna re-do it but the want to sell you the dust cover and lock and it's costly. I did ALOT of research and went with Veshrah seals. Very High quality German seals (and only the seals), 10 bucks. Done 2 front ends now and they are dry.

I was told by a crew of Honda dirtbike riders that Honda has several companies making aftermarket seals to OEM specs so who knows what the quality is..the Honda boys say material quality is also a factor...All-Balls are to spec too, but leak alot. (I think that's the company)

If the seal wasn't in far enough you couldn't get the lock ring on
"Fight until hell freezes over, then fight on the ice"

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jhngardner367
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby jhngardner367 » Thu Jun 26, 2014 10:00 pm

If you can find one,use an old microfische sheet,to wrap around the fork tube end. It works great to protect the seals, when installing them.
I'm busier than a one-legged cat,in a sandbox !
I can't fix it,if it ain't broke...you want me to break it,first ???

Give me a Goldwing,...or give me Viagra,cuz either way, I'm gonna ride !

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stevenstrack
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby stevenstrack » Sun Jun 29, 2014 4:54 pm

In process of doing the same to a GL1100I, hope I don't have the same problem. Mine are back together now and have about 12 PSI, put the air in a couple hours ago and now just waiting for some new brake pads that i ordered to arrive to replace the ones that got saturated. I hope mine don't leak but I did replace the bushings as well so I'll keep my fingers crossed that nothing leaks. All my seals were packaged and had the Honda numbers. Where we're they leaking??? I assume the crush gasket for the lower drain bolt was replaced with new?? I had one fork that crush washer was really stuck in but got her out and replaced with new. Hope you get it figured out!

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jhngardner367
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby jhngardner367 » Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:49 pm

Just remember that if you install Progressive fork springs, they recommend NO air !
I'm busier than a one-legged cat,in a sandbox !
I can't fix it,if it ain't broke...you want me to break it,first ???

Give me a Goldwing,...or give me Viagra,cuz either way, I'm gonna ride !

BigBro
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby BigBro » Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:39 pm

I like to wrap that upper fork section in packing tape just a little over once around. Protects the inside of your new seal from the rough edges, actually sharp edges of the inner fork and its slider bushing. Once the seal is over them and on the smooth hard chrome you can remove the wrap of tape. It basically only sticks to itself, but it doesn't hurt to verify none of the gum got on your tube and bushing.

Hope that helps.

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Ed Z
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby Ed Z » Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:12 am

If the slider bushings are worn out you'll have issues... If the fork tubs are nicked or scratched, you'll have issues... If you tried to drive the bushing in and the seal at the same time you'll likely have issues... Had same issue with a friends rebuild... Turned out the spring on the seal kept coming off as the seal was driven in... A few small dabs of thick grease packed into the spring and lip area solves this issue...

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Coolride
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby Coolride » Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:30 pm

I rebuilt mine with AllBAlls, and they've been great for 10k miles so far. I protected them with tape , or something when assembling them though. I even had some pitting on the tubes, they still didn't leak.

purplerider1200
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby purplerider1200 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:50 pm

The one set that lasted me, was Chicago Rawhide. They dis-continued them, durn.

MacNoob
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby MacNoob » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:47 pm

Looks like I'm into this job now (85 Aspencade). When you order the part 39 seal kit (51490-MN8-305) - is that enough for ONE fork or both? Assuming one.

Also going to replace the bushings at the same time. The guide bushing 51414-KCR-003 is easy. But then there are two part #s for the slider bushing - 51419-MB4-003 and 51415-MB4-003. These are two different bushings and I need both?

purplerider1200
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby purplerider1200 » Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:11 pm

Read some of the earlier posts-You put the seals in first, and then the downtube? That's wrong, I've replaced plenty of them with the tubes already installed. Doing that, saves the seal from damage. You can make a seal driver, by using a piece of pvc, schedule 40. The 1200 takes 1 1/2 inch, that needs to be slit with a circular saw, because the pipe ID is small. Once that's done, the pipe drives the seal, without damage.

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wilmo
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby wilmo » Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:44 pm

Also, depending on which manual you used, if any, there is one out there that shows you put the seals in upside down, which is an error. Careful of that... and yes if the seal wasn't all the way in, you can't put the circlip in and lock it, which will result in leakage and worse...

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Ed Z
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Re: Fork Seals, GL1200

Postby Ed Z » Fri Sep 26, 2014 2:59 pm

purplerider1200 wrote:Read some of the earlier posts-You put the seals in first, and then the downtube? That's wrong, I've replaced plenty of them with the tubes already installed. Doing that, saves the seal from damage. You can make a seal driver, by using a piece of pvc, schedule 40. The 1200 takes 1 1/2 inch, that needs to be slit with a circular saw, because the pipe ID is small. Once that's done, the pipe drives the seal, without damage.



I place the old seal atop the new one to insure the new one is not damaged... If you pull the fork tube up a ways and then squeeze the PVC around it you make a very nice slide hammer to drive the new seal in... The old seal is easy to remove once the new one is seated...




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