'85 1200 Start problem


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Harp
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Location: Cleve, OH
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'85 1200 Start problem

Postby Harp » Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:24 am



Put the bike in storage this year, got it back with carbs rebuilt, synced & tuned. Ran great, faster than ever was very pleased. Battery started to lose charge. Replaced it as it was four years old. Bike ran great for 2 rides. Went to start it yesterday and all I got was a click. Sound seems to come from directly behind the battery. All light, sound system and electric systems work. If this was my '69 Cutlass, I'd just jump the solenoid. But, I don't want to mess it up worse. Trying to avoid a trip back to my mechanic. He cost me a lot as he is paid in home-brewed beer. Need some for myself. Any suggestions? TIA....... 8-)



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WingAdmin
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Re: '85 1200 Start problem

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:52 am

Go ahead and jump the solenoid (careful, because it's hot even when the ignition is switched off). If the engine spins, then your solenoid is bad. If it doesn't, then either the starter is bad, or the battery is bad (might want to measure voltage at the battery terminals before trying this, just to make sure that's not the problem).

Incidentally, it's not really a solenoid, just a big honking relay.

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virgilmobile
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Re: '85 1200 Start problem

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Jun 26, 2014 2:47 pm

Don't forget that it could be hydrolocked.I pulled the starter on mine for the same "click" and a known good battery.
3 hours later,after I put it back in and still no cranking,I pulled the spark plugs.
Shot raw gas across the driveway.
I now remember to turn off the gas at night.

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Harp
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Location: Cleve, OH
Motorcycle: 2014 Goldwing 1800/A

Re: '85 1200 Start problem

Postby Harp » Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:41 pm

Thanks to all - solenoid/relay is bad. Should be up & running by Monday.
Harp

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Ed Z
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Re: '85 1200 Start problem

Postby Ed Z » Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:34 am

Lends me to want to inspect the Stator wiring connector plug... As you look at the battery, just to the left is a plug with 3 yellow wires going into it... Disconnect this plug and check for burnt connectors... If the previous owner already removed the plug and just spliced the wires together, check to see if they did it well or not... Some folks try to use the burnt up cooper wire to make the connection... If needed splice in additional length of wire in order to get to good clean cooper on the original wire...

If all the above checks out, then ya might want to run the Stator test (looking for AC voltage across each leg pair)... If one or more of the legs is out of spec, it means ya are in for a replacement of the stator (not fun)... If it does check OK then move on to the regulator tests... Ya should see over 14 volts reading at the battery while the bike is running (above 2500 RPM)... Ya do need to have a charged up battery to run this test though...




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