Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD


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Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sun Jan 10, 2016 3:00 am



Had this requirement going through my head after reading another thread, and because of this couldn't sleep. I have done a possible solution that would use a 5 pin electrical relay, and a car brake switch.

Here's my rendition:


Here's my thoughts on this schematic. I have taken the 12VDC supply to the kill switch and routed it to the normally open (NO) contact on the 5 pin relay. The relay would be electrically energized (switched) by the neutral signal from the gear shift sensor and this would connect power to the kill switch when starting the bike in neutral.

The kickstand switch would be a car brake switch (or similar). I thought of this type of switch because of how it works.

You splice and route the 12VDC supply to the kill switch to this kickstand switch. When the kickstand is down, the switch is not energized because the plunger on this brake switch is fully extended. The out wire from this switch would be connected to the 5 pin relay normally closed (NC) contact. When the kickstand is up and the plunger on the switch is depressed, the switch is now energized and the circuit is completed putting 12 VDC to the NC connector on the 5 pin relay.

When you shift the bike into gear, the signal from the gear shift sensor is lost because the bike is no longer in neutral. This would cause the 5 pin relay to de-energize causing the internals to switch the 12 VDC supply to the NC position which has a 12VDC signal from the kickstand switch.

In theory, I think this could work. My concerns are the transition through neutral from first to second, and the other way from second to first, as well as the speed with which the relay would transition from the NO to NC positions.

I have a lot of other work items I am doing at this time so this would be a future project, but invite comments.

Cheers
Ernest


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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Sun Jan 10, 2016 2:21 pm

You've got another switch to consider: the clutch switch. If you stall at an intersection, you want to be able to squeeze the clutch in and start the bike, so you can clear the intersection quickly. You don't want to have to switch to neutral first before you can start.

The correct logic is:

Kickstand down, in neutral = start/run
Kickstand down, in gear = no start, no run
Kickstand up, in neutral = start/run
Kickstand up, in gear, clutch out = run, not start
Kickstand up, in gear, clutch in = start/run

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sun Jan 10, 2016 5:10 pm

Thanks WingAdmin - more to consider. Took some pictures of the kickstand up and down. It is not the most mod friendly item on the bike. First picture is of the kickstand down.


You can see from the picture below, the kickstand is out over an inch from the frame.


Cheers

Ernest
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:38 pm

This subject just keeps rearing its ugly head with a lot of information being found on the various forums about side stand indicator lights and a few with wiring mods that do most of what an OEM installed system does. When I find a new thread on this issue, I generally peruse it and the associated the recommended threads to read to see what has been done and is available.

I found a thread the other night and one of the posts directed me to an NGW thread on a side stand Interlock by Gregforesi. He has done a wiring/side stand interlock mod to his bike that is quite well done. I looked at his schematics and unfortunately I have yet to fully understand the use of all the relays and how it works; however, I do understand his basic schematic. His thread is at: http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... +interlock

The item that controls the start/stop of the bike due to the side stand is the engine stop switch. Controlling the power to this switch is how the side stand interlock/indicating light system works. Power is controlled by using a relay that is controlled by a 12 VDC switched power circuit and grounded at three different points in the electrical system, these being:

side stand switch
neutral switch
clutch switch

Using the logic from Gregforesi's schematic, anytime the bike's ignition is turned on and the relay-R1 that controls the side stand interlock/indicator light system is not energized, the bike will turn over but will not start.

I also have the engine stop switch used to energize the accessory fuse block I installed. If the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit is not energized I will have no accessory power and there will be no power to the coils - should not be an issue.

The side stand indicator light can be a solid on or flashing light, your preference.

The 12 VDC switched power circuit to power real-R1 can be from any switched source.

When the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit is not powered and the ignition switch is on, the bike will turn over but not start.

I did take his initial drawing and do the same to the schematic for my '85 LTD. I find that the key to this setup is the grounding of the relay used to power the side stand interlock/indicator light system. I also refreshed my memory about how you would want the system to work that Wingadmin detailed in a post above. Wingadmin's logic sequence is:

The correct logic is:

Kickstand down, in neutral = start/run
Kickstand down, in gear = no start, no run
Kickstand up, in neutral = start/run
Kickstand up, in gear, clutch out = run, not start
Kickstand up, in gear, clutch in = start/run

Using all this info, and finally finding a schematic that works for almost all of Wingadmin's logic, here is the modified schematic for my '85:

My modified schematic showing the wiring and relay for the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit
My modified schematic showing the wiring and relay for the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit

I have gone through the logic sequence detailed above and the wiring for this side stand.

When you turn on the ignition switch on with the side stand down, the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit is energized by a switched 12 VDC power circuit and relay-R1 is grounded through the neutral switch at point #1. The connection is after the clutch diode that ensures there is no conflict with the clutch switch, and the side stand switch is only grounding the side stand indicator light. This part of the system meets the requirement of:

Kickstand down, in neutral = start/run
Kickstand down, in gear = no start, no run

The side stand interlock/indicator light circuit has a ground point through the clutch switch. This will allow you to start the bike in gear with the side stand down, but will not allow you to ride away with the kickstand down because once you release the clutch to ride away the ground for relay-R1 will be lost de-energizing the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit.

With the kickstand up, ignition switch on, and the bike in neutral, the bike will start because the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit is energized by the switched 12 VDC power circuit and relay-R1 is grounded through the side stand switch and the neutral switch. With the side stand in the up position the side stand indicator light is now off. The bike will continue to run when shifted into first or another gear because the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit relay-R1 is still grounded through the side stand switch. This satisfies:

Kickstand up, in neutral = start/run

The next part of the logic sequence that I had to address was:

Kickstand up, in gear, clutch out = run, not start

This is addressed by grounding relay-R1 of the circuit through the side stand switch.

The last part of the logic sequence to be addressed:

Kickstand up, in gear, clutch in = start/run

This is where I decided the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit had to be grounded through the clutch switch. This last part of the logic sequence is accomplished by having the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit grounded either through the side stand switch or the clutch switch. Not too sure if the ground through the clutch switch is required. If not, it will simplify the wiring requirements.

Gregforesi came up with an elegant solution for a side stand switch. Here is his picture of the side stand switch installtion:

Photo from Gregforesi thread on the NGW forum regarding side stand interlock circuit
Photo from Gregforesi thread on the NGW forum regarding side stand interlock circuit

I'm of the opinion that having relay-R1 have multiple ground positions should not be an issue and this will allow for the use of one relay to power the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit.

I'm thinking a test circuit will be in order before tapping into the bike wiring and installing parts and pieces.

Have a view and comments welcome.

Cheers
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Ernest

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Feb 24, 2017 9:12 am

The problem with that switch is that it is not sealed - and in that area (close to the road) you will get a LOT of spray, grit, dirt, etc. Eventually that switch is either going to oxidize and fail internally, or it is going to jam from dirt and grit.

When I did this, I used a sealed magnetic switch, with no moving parts. I epoxied the switch to the frame, and the activating magnet to the kickstand:

Image

I actually spray painted it all black after this picture was taken, to make it not stand out.

You can read about it here: Installing a kickstand switch on my GL1100

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Fri Feb 24, 2017 9:31 am

Thanks WingAdmin - switch hasn't been decided on yet.

Any comment on the circuit an the logic? I think it will do the trick all round.

Cheers
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Feb 24, 2017 10:13 am

Rednaxs60 wrote:Thanks WingAdmin - switch hasn't been decided on yet.

Any comment on the circuit an the logic? I think it will do the trick all round.

Cheers
I see one problem right off the bat: Your circuit is bypassing (shorting out) the neutral switch diode - you have connected to it on both sides of the diode, and those connections then connect together. As a result, you'll likely find the neutral light flashing on every time you squeeze your clutch (I suspect, without looking at the full schematic).

Also...it's hard to tell the intention of the relay, without knowing which of the relay terminals are the coil, and which are the contacts. Right now it's just a box with four connectors on it. Can you describe which are which?

Also - your clutch switch is shown as a SPDT - which are not easy to find in a momentary push switch. You might want to use a simple SPST, and get the kickstand light from the relay that it actuates.

Lastly, make sure the design is such that in the event of failure (kickstand switch, relay coil, wire between kickstand switch and relay) that the failure mode is such that the bike still runs. You don't want your bike suddenly dying while riding, because some water sprayed up into your kickstand switch or whatever.

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Fri Feb 24, 2017 1:19 pm

WingAdmin - good feedback. Will update the schematic and put pin numbers on the relay. Hadn't thought about the possibility that the clutch diode may be bypassed such that I would have an issue.

Going to do a short test with my 1800 to determine a sequence of events and try to duplicate with this modification. Want to know if 1800 will start when in gear with clutch lever pulled in and side stand down.

The side stand switch will have to be robust enough ensure that if stalled at wherever, that you can start the bike and carry on by just pulling in the clutch lever and starting. Have been looking at the side stand switch used on the 1800.

The fellow on NGW used bayonet connectors on the wiring from the engine stop switch so that if there was an issue with the circuit, he would disconnect the wires from the new circuit and reconnect as per before modification ensuring that he could still ride. You could also put in a bypass switch as well.

More to follow.

Cheers
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Feb 24, 2017 3:35 pm

Rednaxs60 wrote:WingAdmin - good feedback. Will update the schematic and put pin numbers on the relay. Hadn't thought about the possibility that the clutch diode may be bypassed such that I would have an issue.

Going to do a short test with my 1800 to determine a sequence of events and try to duplicate with this modification. Want to know if 1800 will start when in gear with clutch lever pulled in and side stand down.

The side stand switch will have to be robust enough ensure that if stalled at wherever, that you can start the bike and carry on by just pulling in the clutch lever and starting. Have been looking at the side stand switch used on the 1800.

The fellow on NGW used bayonet connectors on the wiring from the engine stop switch so that if there was an issue with the circuit, he would disconnect the wires from the new circuit and reconnect as per before modification ensuring that he could still ride. You could also put in a bypass switch as well.

More to follow.

Cheers

Here's the correct logic:

Neutral: ignition enabled, starter enabled
In gear with kickstand down: ignition shut off, starter disabled
In gear with kickstand up: ignition enabled, starter disabled
In gear with clutch in and kickstand up: ignition enabled, starter enabled
In gear with clutch in and kickstand down: ignition shut off, starter disabled

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Fri Feb 24, 2017 4:38 pm

Here is an updated schematic for the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit:


I have removed the ground wire that went over to the clutch switch.
I have labeled relay-R1. The coil is between pins 85/86. The power supply to the engine shutoff switch is between pins 30/87. The switch between pins 30/87 is normally open. When power is supplied to the coil between pins 85/86, the switch between pins 30/87 closes supplying power to the engine stop switch.

More to follow.
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Sun Feb 26, 2017 7:50 pm

Looks like it should work!

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:50 pm

This is what I'm going to go with. Out riding yesterday and got in a hurry leaving the daughter's place and forgot to lift the side stand - doesn't turn to the left very well.

First have to find a side stand switch, the rest is wiring and a four pin relay that I have.
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sun Feb 26, 2017 9:20 pm

Found a waterproof magnetic switch on Ebay.ca (CDN version) $26.00 free shipping. The product is Directed Electronics Inc 8600 Micro Magnetic Switch:


Specs:
Micro Magnetic Switch. Brand: Directed DEI8600. Compact, Magnetic Switch. Normally Closed When Contacts Are Apart. Product Class: 12 Volt Security/Starters.

I would mount this switch so the piece with the wires would be on the bike frame and the other piece on the side stand. If I read the specs correct, when the side stand is down and the contacts are apart, the indicator light would be on and the bike should not start unless in neutral.

Getting closer to a resolution. Will check some electrical/electronic outlets downtown tomorrow to see if I can get one. Would also be nice from a replacement requirement as well.

Cheers
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Ernest

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Mon Feb 27, 2017 3:34 pm

Rednaxs60 wrote:Found a waterproof magnetic switch on Ebay.ca (CDN version) $26.00 free shipping. The product is Directed Electronics Inc 8600 Micro Magnetic Switch: Waterproof switch.JPG Specs:
Micro Magnetic Switch. Brand: Directed DEI8600. Compact, Magnetic Switch. Normally Closed When Contacts Are Apart. Product Class: 12 Volt Security/Starters.

I would mount this switch so the piece with the wires would be on the bike frame and the other piece on the side stand. If I read the specs correct, when the side stand is down and the contacts are apart, the indicator light would be on and the bike should not start unless in neutral.

Getting closer to a resolution. Will check some electrical/electronic outlets downtown tomorrow to see if I can get one. Would also be nice from a replacement requirement as well.

Cheers
That's exactly how I did mine - the switch went on the frame, and the magnet went on the kickstand. I used epoxy to fasten them both.

Keep in mind that mounting the magnet on the steel kickstand will decrease the magnetic flux of the magnet inside of it, so the magnet will have to get quite a bit closer to the switch in order to activate it that it would in free air not mounted to anything. On my install, the magnet would activate the switch maybe 1 to 1 1/2 inches away, but once mounted on the kickstand, it had to be within 1/4" or so in order to activate it.

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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:07 am

Started on the wiring for the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit. Finding the right wires in the maze of harnesses is a feat in itself. I started with wiring into the clutch diode wiring as it is the easiest to get at. When I was doing work on the clutch diode wiring I removed the clutch diode from the connector so that soldering and shrink tube heating would not affect the diode.


After each step I put the clutch diode back into the connector and ensured the bike still started. Did not want to get to a point where the bike would not start.

The clutch diode on the '85 LTD is at the rear of the bike and shares the same placement as the saddlebag connections:

Clutch diode position at rear of bike on right side under seat
Clutch diode position at rear of bike on right side under seat

The arrow points to the clutch diode.

The side stand interlock/indicator light circuit has the wire splice after the clutch diode and before the neutral switch. The wire colour is light green/red stripe.


The wire that looks like it is white with a red stripe is actually light green with a red stripe.

I have started taking the switch with the engine stop switch attached apart so I can splice into the necessary wires. I first removed the front brake MC from the handle bars. Next was to take the switch casing apart that houses the engine stop switch. This is proving to be more challenging because the throttle cables are not allowing me to just take the switch apart and work on it. Will have to see what is required to possibly disconnect the throttle cables so I can get at the wiring.

The wire needed for the circuit will be left coiled up for the time being as I still have to get the side stand switch.

More to follow.
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:25 am

When I was taking the handle bar switch that houses the engine stop switch apart and found that the throttle cables would have to be removed, I noticed that that one of the throttle cable securing holes (where the small lead grommet fits into the handle) was elongated. I do not believe that this is how it is supposed to be. Will be trying to source a new hand grip today. Will post picture of this later. Seems one project can lead to a wealth of discoveries. Don't need issues with throttle cables down the road.
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:26 pm

Took some time this morning to read through the information I have gathered about the side stand interlock/indicator light. I noticed that I had information from nlaspencade out of Newfoundland. He had hooked up a circuit that tapped into the downside of the engine stop switch. I thought about this and whether the wire tap is before or after the engine stop switch will not affect what I am trying to achieve. It will also be easier, and there is very little space at the engine stop switch for any wiring change. here is my updated schematic showing where the wire tap after the engine stop switch:


When I took the switch apart at the handle bar, I noticed that the return throttle cable connection where the lead on the end of the cable fits into the throttle handle was elongated. After 32 years you can expect things like this to crop up. I probably would not have found this had I not been doing this side stand interlock/indicator light circuit.


You can see the one hole that is elongated and the second one on the pull side of the throttle that is not.

I have ordered a new handle and new throttle cables. I have new cables coming because last year when I took this bike on a track day it underwent a basic safety inspection. The only issue I ad was the throttle return in that it did not snap back when you took your hand off the throttle. I worked on it and was finally cleared for the day, but it has been something I have thought about. My thoughts are that after 32 years are that even if the cable is in good shape, the cable has been cutting into the cable sheath and there is a build up inside the sheath that is preventing the cable from moving freely. I don't think any amount of of oiling will alleviate this condition.

More to follow.
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:36 pm

Rednaxs60 wrote:When I took the switch apart at the handle bar, I noticed that the return throttle cable connection where the lead on the end of the cable fits into the throttle handle was elongated. After 32 years you can expect things like this to crop up. I probably would not have found this had I not been doing this side stand interlock/indicator light circuit. You can see the one hole that is elongated and the second one on the pull side of the throttle that is not.
That hole is not worn, it is actually supposed to be elongated like that:



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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:48 am

Isn't that the way things happen. Thankfully it's less than $10.00 CDN to me. Already have it all apart in preparation for the new one and throttle cables. I will install the new on with the new cables. Got a spare, might need it for my second LTD that I have in Ontario.

Cheers
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:54 am

Found the black/white striped wire from the engine stop switch. Will be splicing in to it tomorrow. Had to cut open the rubber wiring covers that are tucked up in the handle bar. Once I got the throttle cables off the switch, and was able to move the wiring harness around, things got easier. I did notice when I split the switch there are three screws holding the switch together. There are two short screws and one long. The two short screws go in the front of the switch, and the long one to the rear:


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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:19 am

Have been progressing this mod. Lots done today to get it to where I think it needs to be.

First let me say that a while ago there was chat about tools, and it was recommended to get long handle needle nose pliers. I started looking for these on sale and finally picked up a set of 11 inch needle nose pliers. I have been using these extensively to help route the wiring for this mod. Well worth the investment:

11 inch needle nose pliers
11 inch needle nose pliers

All splices have been soldered and covered with shrink tube. I'm using marine grade wiring and labeling the wires with wire markers so I know which wire does what and to what. I am putting these in a spread sheet for future reference because it can get out of control very quickly. The wire markers I use are numbered from 1 to 50:

wire markers numbering from 1 to 50
wire markers numbering from 1 to 50



I think I may have to get some more that are numbered from 50 to 100.

I needed to decide where to place the indicator light and controlling relay. As is known, real estate for installing additional relays and such is at a premium on these older bikes. The indicator light position is below the radio on the left side. I can see it when I sit on the bike and there is room for wiring and working.

Indicator light installed on left side under radio
Indicator light installed on left side under radio

I initially put the relay in a spot that would require removing the false tank if a problem occurred:


This is where the old connector for the stator/RR connectors was located - under the false tank. I realized this could be an issue so I had another good look. I settled on installing this relay under the travel computer on the top of the air box.


To ensure this would be practical I put the false tank back on and it was a good placement.

Relay installed and looking at it with the false tank installed
Relay installed and looking at it with the false tank installed

This position will also let me bypass the relay if required. I will probably make a jumper so that I can disconnect the wires from the engine stop switch and join them together.
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Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:34 am

Once I had the indicator light and relay positioned, it was time to tackle the wiring. I have found that for such a small short space, wiring fixes/mods take a very long time and it doesn't look like you've accomplished anything. It was no different today.

I started with the wiring to and from the engine shut off switch. The wires I spliced into were the black/light green striped power wire from the ignition switch to the engine stop switch, and the black/white striped wire from the engine stop switch to the coils, etc.

Engine stop switch black/white striped wire ready fior splice
Engine stop switch black/white striped wire ready fior splice

The wire splices were all soldered and had shrink tube over the splices for protection:


To power the relay for the circuit I spliced into the power wire from the ignition switch to the engine stop switch - a black/light green striped wire. I am also using this wire splice to be the power source to the indicator light. To minimize bulk, I will connect the power wire for the indicator light to this wire splice at the relay.

Finished product with the handle bar wiring harness taped back together - waiting for throttle cable install.


Once I had the engine stop switch wire and power wire spliced, I routed the wires to the relay that I installed on the air box. Next I wired the indicator light.


Since the indicator light is in the front fairing and I may have to take the front fairing off sometime, I installed a 2 prong marine grade connector.


Finished the first batch of wiring for this project:


The green and red wire that are taped together are from the indicator light, the other 3 wires are from the handle bar splices.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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Rednaxs60
Posts: 1222
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD, 2008 GL1800

Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:42 am

Routed the green wire from the indicator light to beside the side stand where the side stand switch is to be installed. When I was looking for a switch that would be appropriate for the task, I found a waterproof magnetic switch on line that would do the job, but I wanted to tyr to source locally. went into Queale Electronics and found a SPDT switch that should do the job as well (same cost). It appears to be very robust and I was told that there are waterproof switch covers that screw onto the switch plunger protecting it from the elements. Will be looking for one of these.

SPDT switch
SPDT switch



I'm thinking using 1 inch angle for the side stand switch install;however, when I did a quick fit of 1 inch angle (have some small pieces on hand) there is going to be some fitment issues requiring some imagination.

Tomorrow I will be picking up some connectors, ran out of the ones I need as is always the case.

More to follow.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

User avatar
Rednaxs60
Posts: 1222
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD, 2008 GL1800

Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:40 am

I have updated my circuit schematic. I think the only item left to do to the schematic is put the wire numbers on when I finish.


"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

User avatar
Rednaxs60
Posts: 1222
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD, 2008 GL1800

Re: Kickstand Kill Switch for '85 GL1200 LTD

Post by Rednaxs60 » Fri Mar 03, 2017 11:02 pm

Finished up the wiring and hooked up the side stand switch I intend to use and did a proof of concept. It works as the schematic illustrates.

With the kickstand down and the side stand switch in the NC position, the indicator light is on and the bike starts through the neutral switch ground. With the kickstand down and put in gear the bike shuts off, no more neutral ground.

With the side stand switch (simulated by taping the switch in the NO position) indicator light is off, bike continues to run, and the indicator light is off.

Simulated a stall by using the engine stop switch, pulled in clutch and bike starts.

So far so good.

Now a conundrum. I have a neutral light and "N" shift indication on start and when put back into neutral. I no longer have the shift position indication when I put the bike in gear and the neutral light stays on. Bike still runs. I bypassed the ground wires of the side stand interlock/indicator light circuit and hooked the wiring up to ground (as it was before I started the new circuit). No change to the indicators on the LCD display.

I looked further into the wiring schematics and the light green/red striped wire that I have spliced into after the clutch diode to start the bike with the side stand down also goes to the instrument cluster for the shift indicator. This is a schematic of LCD indicator and lights showing where it is that concerns me:


(a copy of a copy).

Because the power is no longer flowing through the neutral switch to ground, but there is still power on the wire, is it possible to feed the power into the LCD dash conflicting with the shift indications. When I turn the key on, the LCD display for the shift indication comes on as it always has. Is it possible that the shift sensor on right front side of transmission could have been impacted?

Something happened. Looking into the relay issue to determine if I can modify the circuit so that when the side stand is up there is no power on the line going to the wire splice after the clutch diode.

Can still ride the bike and all other items displayed on the LCD dash work as per normal such as RPM, fuel level, temp, kilometers and speed as well as the others.

To summarize, The circuit works, now for some fine tuning, install of the side stand switch, and determine what is going on with the LCD dash.

Cheers


"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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